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Thread: How could I clean a shotgun with engravings and damascus barrels? 11 gauge?

  1. #41
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KCSO View Post
    There is no particular issue with removing the lock. Clean around them and then take out the screw on the middle of the right lock. Back it just about all the way and TAP it gently and the lock on the off side should just pop loose. Take the screw all the way out and then from the other side using a light dowell tap out the other lock. If you don't remover and clean the locks you have no idea what gunk and grit may be jamming up the works. Dried grease or oil alone will be enough to keep the sears from seating properly in the tumbler notches.
    Alright il give it a shot. Everything seems to work really nice though. They were field guns but everything works and clicks into place nicely.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by megasupermagnum View Post
    Unless I'm missing something 6pt-sika, I'm seeing a gauge mate as a chamber adapter plus 1" of barrel. If that's your idea of good performance, you may as well have been shooting a pellet gun.
    That’s the way gage mates are . And yes I and many others have gotten good performance from them on the skeet field and sporting clays course . I mean if you break the target flying thru the air I’d call that acceptable performance .
    Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines

  3. #43
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    A shotgun, no choke, with a 1" barrel. I don't doubt you hit your clay target, but I don't even need to see a pattern to know that it is not acceptable performance. It won't have squat for velocity or pattern. I don't mean this to pick on you, but don't sit there and tell us that chamber adapter is anything but what it is.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by megasupermagnum View Post
    A shotgun, no choke, with a 1" barrel. I don't doubt you hit your clay target, but I don't even need to see a pattern to know that it is not acceptable performance. It won't have squat for velocity or pattern. I don't mean this to pick on you, but don't sit there and tell us that chamber adapter is anything but what it is.
    I suggest you try them yourself . I don’t shoot patterns I shoot targets flying thru the air . I’m sorry your mind can’t grasp the idea . To be honest I was a bit skeptical the first time I tried them and was quite pleased with the result . There is NO difference between the gauge mates and the shorty Briley tubes . I think the longest Briley shorty tube is maybe 6” for the 410 and considerably less for the 20 and 28 . I cannot fathom how you would think the inch or two more from the Briley shorty tubes would make a big difference over the gauge mates . But I don’t really care ! I told you my experience and many other folks I know .
    Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines

  5. #45
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    I don't think Briley shorty tubes are better, I couldn't even care. In the OP's case, it's a perfect fix, as he can make ammo perfect for his barrel. I can get on board with full sleeves too, but a 1" chamber adapter, no way. I don't need to spend the money on those to know they are junk. You shoot a frail clay target. Of course you haven't patterned it, because you know as well as I do that those adapters are embarrassing.

    I never meant this as an insult, but I see this problem a lot in the shooting sports, especially IDPA. Guys get so caught up in their game, that they forget there is more to the real world. Does a guy who shoots steel targets at 0-20 yards give a rats behind if their gun is accurate beyond that? No, you could give Jerry Miculek a handgun with a smooth bore and ammo loaded with round balls, and he would never know the difference. Does that mean that a smooth bore and round ball handgun is effective for anything other than that? Maybe paper punching. It's certainly not effective compared to a rifled barrel.


    You shooting clays, your idea of "effective" is if it breaks a clay disk at short range, and you may be right. What are you getting out of those, 600 fps? It isn't much, and it won't be effective on anything but frail targets at close range. There's a lot of things you need to try and see when it comes to shooting. This isn't one, anyone can tell a 1" barrel is not effective.
    Last edited by megasupermagnum; 03-13-2019 at 11:11 PM.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by megasupermagnum View Post
    I don't think Briley shorty tubes are better, I couldn't even care. In the OP's case, it's a perfect fix, as he can make ammo perfect for his barrel. I can get on board with full sleeves too, but a 1" chamber adapter, no way. I don't need to spend the money on those to know they are junk. You shoot a frail clay target. Of course you haven't patterned it, because you know as well as I do that those adapters are embarrassing.

    I never meant this as an insult, but I see this problem a lot in the shooting sports, especially IDPA. Guys get so caught up in their game, that they forget there is more to the real world. Does a guy who shoots steel targets at 0-20 yards give a rats behind if their gun is accurate beyond that? No, you could give Jerry Miculek a handgun with a smooth bore and ammo loaded with round balls, and he would never know the difference. Does that mean that a smooth bore and round ball handgun is effective for anything other than that? Maybe paper punching. It's certainly not effective compared to a rifled barrel.


    You shooting clays, your idea of "effective" is if it breaks a clay disk at short range, and you may be right. What are you getting out of those, 600 fps? It isn't much, and it won't be effective on anything but frail targets at close range. There's a lot of things you need to try and see when it comes to shooting. This isn't one, anyone can tell a 1" barrel is not effective.
    In the first place if you break targets you don't need to pattern the gun . I NEVER EVER patterned a 410 be it an actual 410 shotgun , a 12 gauge with Kolar tubes or a 12 gauge with guage mates or shorty Brileys . Quite frankly good 410 shot patterns do not help to build a new shooters confidence . I do not see in the least how they are embarrassing if they do the job .

    As to someone getting "caught up and forgetting" perhaps you should heed your own words .

    The velocity of those shots isn't going to be down in the 600 range , hold points and leads don't change between full length tubes or barrels and the gauge mates . As to actual velocity I can't honestly say but I would assume it might loose 100 - 150 FPS . You missed something else , I have several good friends that use the gauge mates on the Sporting Clays course and shoot very good scores myself included , in your infinite wisdom I am SURE you're well aware most sporting clays courses stretch the targets out pretty well so a 40-60 yard target is not rare anymore .

    Oh yeah just so you know I do not compete at the shotgun games any longer I do still shoot them from time to time on a semi regular basis so don't think I'm as you said "caught up in their game" .
    Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines

  7. #47
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    You are not knocking anything down consistently at 40-60 yards with a 1" barrel .410. How much money do you want to bet, and where do I need to meet you? Now I do mean to be a little insulting, as you are just being ridiculous. I know what a Taurus Judge does, and it's effective to about 10 feet. You clearly haven't a clue, because I will lay money you are loosing a lot more than 150 fps verses a standard 26" barrel. A Taurus Judge with a longer barrel runs about 650 fps.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by megasupermagnum View Post
    You are not knocking anything down consistently at 40-60 yards with a 1" barrel .410. How much money do you want to bet, and where do I need to meet you? Now I do mean to be a little insulting, as you are just being ridiculous. I know what a Taurus Judge does, and it's effective to about 10 feet. You clearly haven't a clue, because I will lay money you are loosing a lot more than 150 fps verses a standard 26" barrel. A Taurus Judge with a longer barrel runs about 650 fps.
    I never said a 410 at sporting generally they’re using gauge mates in 16 or 20 . Actually I have more then a clue about velocity loss in a rifle and generally it’s about 30-35 FPS an inch . In a shotgun it doesn’t seem to be the same . On the skeet field the hold points Nd the break points pretty much stay the same if you were loosing down as much as you assume the break points would be a noticeable difference. Bring the bank to Virginia with you and be prepared to go home as if you went to Las Vegas BROKE that is
    Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines

  9. #49
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    I'm not assuming! I have personally shot a 2" barrel Taurus Judge over a chronograph, and got about 650 fps with 2 1/2" .410 target ammo. You have never patterned your gun with those adapters, you have never chronographed your gun with those adapters. You are wrong, just quit telling people how great 1" long barrels are.

  10. #50
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Off topic about what everyone is arguing about but I was wondering if it was better to shoot jsut lead in all my oldies. Because I have made up shells before for newer shotguns I have with the steel bb's that are covered with copper. Does the copper coating make them any better to shoot or should I just stick to lead?

    I would like small shot but I dont have a shot dripper and lead shot is 75$ for a bag of 20 pounds. So I bought a mold for #4 buckshot from lee and that seems to work great but I would still like small shot.

  11. #51
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    Absolutely do not shoot steel shot in that old gun. No coating helps. Bismuth, and some other soft options are ok at $15-50 per pound, but it's easiest just to stick to lead. The cost of lead shot is out of control, sometimes you can find better deals. Oddly, it's been cheaper recently for me to order it online and pay shipping. Lots of stores around me still want $55 USD per bag. They don't sell well.

  12. #52
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    [QUOTE=Kev18;4599943]Alright il give it a shot. Everything seems to work really nice though. They were field guns but everything works and clicks into place nicely.[/QUOT

    Kev, not sure about your gun but some makers have a bevel or hook on the front part of the lock to secure it in the action,,,be careful,,,easy does it, biggest problem might be taking a chip out of the wood. After removing clean it gently with a soft brush and kerosene or equivalent, blow it dry and lube it with some good gun oil. Make sue some oil gets to where the tumbler shaft goes through the plate. Also apply some good grease with a tooth pick where the sear engages the tumbler notches. It really easy once you do one...Ed

  13. #53
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    COOL, Sounds like you got it figured out, do you have one of those old fashioned wad funnels?,,,,usually find them on e-bay..Ed

  14. #54
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Longknife View Post
    COOL, Sounds like you got it figured out, do you have one of those old fashioned wad funnels?,,,,usually find them on e-bay..Ed
    No I dont have one, would be nice tho. I use the original priming tool and the shot/powder dipper. Im pretty sure it drops abit more powder then I need. So I just scoop the BP on to a scale like normal powder.

  15. #55
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by megasupermagnum View Post
    Absolutely do not shoot steel shot in that old gun. No coating helps. Bismuth, and some other soft options are ok at $15-50 per pound, but it's easiest just to stick to lead. The cost of lead shot is out of control, sometimes you can find better deals. Oddly, it's been cheaper recently for me to order it online and pay shipping. Lots of stores around me still want $55 USD per bag. They don't sell well.
    I dont have any experience with other materials other then lead and bb steel shot. I saw bismuth on old boxes at gun shows but thats about it. DO they sell bags of those?

  16. #56
    Boolit Bub
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    Cool

    People sure do invest a lot of energy/time/effort in arguing about things they "don't care about" around here.

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by megasupermagnum View Post
    I'm not assuming! I have personally shot a 2" barrel Taurus Judge over a chronograph, and got about 650 fps with 2 1/2" .410 target ammo. You have never patterned your gun with those adapters, you have never chronographed your gun with those adapters. You are wrong, just quit telling people how great 1" long barrels are.
    For my use and or needs I’m not wrong . For your over inflated ego the entire world is wrong .
    Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev18 View Post
    Off topic about what everyone is arguing about but I was wondering if it was better to shoot jsut lead in all my oldies. Because I have made up shells before for newer shotguns I have with the steel bb's that are covered with copper. Does the copper coating make them any better to shoot or should I just stick to lead?

    I would like small shot but I dont have a shot dripper and lead shot is 75$ for a bag of 20 pounds. So I bought a mold for #4 buckshot from lee and that seems to work great but I would still like small shot.
    Can’t help you any with shot costs . I buy direct and get it from our distributors for about $35 US a bag which on today’s market isn’t bad , but I still think back thirty to forty years ago when I was paying $11 US a bag for magnum grade shot . I load Bismuth for what little goose and duck shooting I do , caught a sale at one of the places last year where Bismuth was going for about $110 US for 7 pounds , so got a bag of 2’s and a bag of 4’s to go with the 1’s I already had . I load a weighed 1 1/4 ounce of Bismuth in the 10 gauge , 1 1/8 in the 12’s and an ounce in the 16’s . As to buckshot I cast 00000 and 0000 for the 10 gauge and keep 000 , 00 , 0 , 1 , 2 and 3 on the shelf . I think about thirty years ago Ross Seyfried had an article in “Handloader” magazine about his fav loads and one of his favs was for a 10 gauge 2 7/8” W&C Scott which at the time my maternal grandfather had a match so when that gun came to me I started loading 2 7/8” 10 I’d loaded 3 1/2” in the past . Anyway I’ve been able to adapt the Seyfried load for bird/clay loads , Bismuth loads , buckshot loads and slug loads all of course with minute differences . Only problem was he used SR7625 and when Hodgdon quit selling 7625 I only had perhaps eight pounds . If I just used it to hunt that would last a good long while but I like shooting the games with a 10 as well . But luckily a gentleman on the Parker forum had 18 pounds of 7625 he wanted to part with and now it’s in Virginia in my accumulation . I might add I also have a 10 gauge load using Red Dot and 1 1/8 ounce of shot that is tough to beat at skeet trap dove . Anyway everything I load regardless of gauge is some alloy of lead or Bismuth . There’s a certain amount of extra satisfaction when you take an old double with a load you made and drop a goose and or duck coming in to your decoys , same can be said for dropping a deer with your handloaded buckshot or home cast slugs . Usually every time I go to the club to shoot there’s a 10 gauge in the truck to be patterned or just shot on the skeet/trap fields. When I meet some others for skeet I’ll shoot four rounds and 90% of the time atleast one round will be shot with a 10 . When you shoot a straight round with a hammer 10 that’s choked rather tight you raise some eye brows
    Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check