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Thread: How could I clean a shotgun with engravings and damascus barrels? 11 gauge?

  1. #21
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev18 View Post
    Well.... the title says it all. This isnt a casting question but its the shotgun section. How do I polish/clean the shotgun receiver with all the engravings? I dont want to damage the engravings or buff them out. Im not sure if steel wool will work? And what products would be best?

    Also i know there isnt any 11 gauge shells anymore. So 12 gauge will do for this shotgun. I dont think there is away to make 11 gauge shells without making them completely from scratch. Im hoping the 12 will swell up in the chamber.

    Shotgun in question is a WC scott, special grade SxS, damascus barrels, 11gauge fully engraved. Just bought it at a gun show today.
    Kev, PLEASE do not try to clean this shotgun. Any "cleaning" will greatly de-value it. Just oil the exposed metal surfaces and let it be. I have seen many old shotguns ruined by cleaning. Also do not try to shoot it with some type of jury-rigged shell set-up. You never did mention the condition of the chambers and bores. Are they clean or pitted?
    I see you are in Canada. I can refer you to a couple of Gunsmiths in Canada that can advise you of how to proceed, PM me for info,,,,ED

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Longknife View Post
    Kev, PLEASE do not try to clean this shotgun. Any "cleaning" will greatly de-value it. Just oil the exposed metal surfaces and let it be. I have seen many old shotguns ruined by cleaning. Also do not try to shoot it with some type of jury-rigged shell set-up. You never did mention the condition of the chambers and bores. Are they clean or pitted?
    I see you are in Canada. I can refer you to a couple of Gunsmiths in Canada that can advise you of how to proceed, PM me for info,,,,ED
    Its fine, the chambers are clean. Almost new. I would say the whole gun is about 80%-90% original condition. Looks really nice.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    If anyone is wondering about the shells. I fixed my problem. I went to a machine shop and im getting two 12 gauge adapters made. Which will also greatly decrease the pressure in the chambers.

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master


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    There you go. Guys pay big bucks nowadays for "back bored barrels". Stick to plastic wads, and you will never know the difference. I've shot black powder with plastic wads, and plastic hulls. It's not as big a deal as some make it out to be.

  5. #25
    Boolit Bub
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    Kev, I have been loading BP in shot shells for quite a few years. You can use plastic shells but they will "deform" from the BP flame so I only use them once. I pick mine up free at the local trap range. Cut off the crimp and load like a ML shotgun, powder , cushion wad, shot and card wad. I would not use plastic wads though just because of the possibility of them melting with the black powder flame. Track of the Wolf has the wads you will need. If you are shooting plastic shells you will need the 12 gauge wads. Brass shells are thinner so the ID is bigger and you will need 10 gauge. You will need the B and C wads only. As a rule of thumb start with "square" loads, that is equal amounts of powder and shot. A 75 grain charge of FF is a good place to start...Good luck, it IS fun!!!!!!!!!!!

  6. #26
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    Its a side lock gun so taking out the locks is easy. Remove the screw holding them in and lift out from the back.
    Best way to clean is ultrasonic.
    There are plenty of safe smokeless loads for twist steel barrels that are not pitted. In fact, a safer pressure curve than black.
    The simple solution is 20 ga inserts, I use them in 10 and 12 ga damascus guns and they pattern well.
    Nice old shotgun.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master Boolit_Head's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev18 View Post
    If anyone is wondering about the shells. I fixed my problem. I went to a machine shop and im getting two 12 gauge adapters made. Which will also greatly decrease the pressure in the chambers.
    A lot of those shell adapter type converters don't do well since right after the chamber there is little to no barrel. Briley's in Houston can make up full length tubes that fit via a O ring to chamber most any shotgun gauge you might like to shoot in it. Tubes to shoot .410 28 and 20 gauge in 12 gauges are in use all over the Skeet circuit with very good results. I'd at least give them a call and have a chat with them They are some of the preeminent shotgun smiths around.
    On every question of construction let us carry ourselves back to the time when the Constitution was adopted, recollect the spirit manifested in the debates, and instead of trying what meaning may be squeezed out of the text or invented against it, conform to the probable one in which it was passed.

    Thomas Jefferson, letter to William Johnson, June 12, 1823

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by megasupermagnum View Post
    There you go. Guys pay big bucks nowadays for "back bored barrels". Stick to plastic wads, and you will never know the difference. I've shot black powder with plastic wads, and plastic hulls. It's not as big a deal as some make it out to be.
    I have shot bp with plastic hulls before I got the Brass ones. The hulls melt a bit but I throw them out after. Doesnt really bother me.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by WehrmannsGeweher View Post
    Its a side lock gun so taking out the locks is easy. Remove the screw holding them in and lift out from the back.
    Best way to clean is ultrasonic.
    There are plenty of safe smokeless loads for twist steel barrels that are not pitted. In fact, a safer pressure curve than black.
    The simple solution is 20 ga inserts, I use them in 10 and 12 ga damascus guns and they pattern well.
    Nice old shotgun.
    Il adventure in that area after I shoot it a few times with BP. Im looking for low pressure loads now for my 1887 WIN. I only shot that one with BP as well.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boolit_Head View Post
    A lot of those shell adapter type converters don't do well since right after the chamber there is little to no barrel. Briley's in Houston can make up full length tubes that fit via a O ring to chamber most any shotgun gauge you might like to shoot in it. Tubes to shoot .410 28 and 20 gauge in 12 gauges are in use all over the Skeet circuit with very good results. I'd at least give them a call and have a chat with them They are some of the preeminent shotgun smiths around.
    Im not sure if it will make a huge difference. They will be low pressure loads to. You mean to say the steel thins out after the chambers?

  11. #31
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    No the wad won't touch the sides of the barrel and cause poor patterns if they could be called patterns. There would be little to no gas seal.
    On every question of construction let us carry ourselves back to the time when the Constitution was adopted, recollect the spirit manifested in the debates, and instead of trying what meaning may be squeezed out of the text or invented against it, conform to the probable one in which it was passed.

    Thomas Jefferson, letter to William Johnson, June 12, 1823

  12. #32
    Boolit Bub
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    Kev, To much clearance of the wad might be a problem, the inside of a plastic shot shell is about .735-.740. the 12 gauge cushion wads are .740 and just may expand enough under pressure to seal in your .750--11 bore dunno, you just need to try it
    I know every one is suggesting Briley inserts and they are expensive!!!! ($700) And you would then be shooting a little 20 bore, what fun is that??? RMC sells 10 and 12 gauge brass at about 10 bucks a pop, ($200 for 20) maybe a little more to make some special 11 bore, thats gonna be much cheaper and you still have an 11 bore,,,,BUT if you get some 12 gauge brass to shoot in you adapters, the ID of that brass is .780 and uses 10 gauge wads. Now you're back to shooting an 11 bore, and the 10 gauge wads, that will seal perfectly!!!!!!!! Magtech 12 gauge brass is $25.00 for a box of 25,,, what are the adapters being made of? brass or steel? are they a slip fit or will they be pressed in?? .....and NO SMOKELESS!!!!!....Ed

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boolit_Head View Post
    No the wad won't touch the sides of the barrel and cause poor patterns if they could be called patterns. There would be little to no gas seal.
    Oh, I see. People get adapters for smaller gauges tho and they seem to do well atleast...?

  14. #34
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Longknife View Post
    Kev, To much clearance of the wad might be a problem, the inside of a plastic shot shell is about .735-.740. the 12 gauge cushion wads are .740 and just may expand enough under pressure to seal in your .750--11 bore dunno, you just need to try it
    I know every one is suggesting Briley inserts and they are expensive!!!! ($700) And you would then be shooting a little 20 bore, what fun is that??? RMC sells 10 and 12 gauge brass at about 10 bucks a pop, ($200 for 20) maybe a little more to make some special 11 bore, thats gonna be much cheaper and you still have an 11 bore,,,,BUT if you get some 12 gauge brass to shoot in you adapters, the ID of that brass is .780 and uses 10 gauge wads. Now you're back to shooting an 11 bore, and the 10 gauge wads, that will seal perfectly!!!!!!!! Magtech 12 gauge brass is $25.00 for a box of 25,,, what are the adapters being made of? brass or steel? are they a slip fit or will they be pressed in?? .....and NO SMOKELESS!!!!!....Ed
    Those full barrel adapters are to expensive for me. Im paying 50$ per adapter. The guy kept my barrel, to make sure it fits perfectly and he took all the measurements when I was there. My dad's known him for a while. He works really well and has great quality machinery. His brother won the lottery a few years ago and bought him a whole machine shop with all new tools. You should see the lathe...

    He's going to be making them out of steel. I told him to make a cutout so that the extractors could lift up the shells. And they should just drop in the bore, not pressed in.
    Im also using the magtech brass, so il use the big 10 gauge wads like you mentioned.

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev18 View Post
    Oh, I see. People get adapters for smaller gauges tho and they seem to do well atleast...?
    Well it goes bang and the pellets exit the barrel. I'm not quite sure you could call the performance good.
    On every question of construction let us carry ourselves back to the time when the Constitution was adopted, recollect the spirit manifested in the debates, and instead of trying what meaning may be squeezed out of the text or invented against it, conform to the probable one in which it was passed.

    Thomas Jefferson, letter to William Johnson, June 12, 1823

  16. #36
    Boolit Grand Master

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    There is no particular issue with removing the lock. Clean around them and then take out the screw on the middle of the right lock. Back it just about all the way and TAP it gently and the lock on the off side should just pop loose. Take the screw all the way out and then from the other side using a light dowell tap out the other lock. If you don't remover and clean the locks you have no idea what gunk and grit may be jamming up the works. Dried grease or oil alone will be enough to keep the sears from seating properly in the tumbler notches.

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boolit_Head View Post
    Well it goes bang and the pellets exit the barrel. I'm not quite sure you could call the performance good.
    Wow it musta been a frickin miracle when I used the little Briley 6 inch long 410 tubes in a 12 gauge and broke 90+ out of a 100 . Or when I used the Briley 3” long 20 gauge tubes in the same 12 gauge and broke 98 out of 100 . MIRACLES NEVER CEASE
    Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines

  18. #38
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    Those are not the usual chamber adapters that end at the end of the chamber. 6 inches of barrel is not the same as no barrel.
    On every question of construction let us carry ourselves back to the time when the Constitution was adopted, recollect the spirit manifested in the debates, and instead of trying what meaning may be squeezed out of the text or invented against it, conform to the probable one in which it was passed.

    Thomas Jefferson, letter to William Johnson, June 12, 1823

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boolit_Head View Post
    Those are not the usual chamber adapters that end at the end of the chamber. 6 inches of barrel is not the same as no barrel.
    Actually there’s very little difference . I’ve used gauge mates and shot acceptable scores as well . I prefer full length FITTED Kolar tubes over the rubber o ring things Briley makes . But then I like all Kolar insert tubes over the Briley tubes . But as to your opinion that gauge mates don’t work you’re wrong . Not just my opinion but that of many others as well or maybe it was just miracles for the thirty to forty people I know that use them from time to time .
    Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines

  20. #40
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Unless I'm missing something 6pt-sika, I'm seeing a gauge mate as a chamber adapter plus 1" of barrel. If that's your idea of good performance, you may as well have been shooting a pellet gun.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check