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Thread: My .60 cal Tri-Ball Load Results

  1. #41
    Boolit Bub luke777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5Shot View Post
    I'd try for 725-750 and run the mold HOT. Once that mold is scorching you should get good fill on every pour.
    It's funny you should say that. I have just fired it up again and I am going for 720°. I am also heating the mold up on the gas stove top to get it pretty warm before I start. I will let you know how I go.

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  2. #42
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I think "HOT" is required for the Lee buckshot moulds.

    I dont use a thermometer and am a ladle caster from a pot on a propane stove. However, I know the characteristics of the lead and what is hot. My brass moulds and NOE moulds like much hotter alloy than my iron moulds. My Lee 00 buckshot mould likes really hot!

    Running the Lee 00 buckshot mould past typical frosting heat is the only way I could get good fill out and all three high cavities to fill. Once hot and running though the mould works well.

    Longbow

  3. #43
    Boolit Bub luke777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by longbow View Post
    I think "HOT" is required for the Lee buckshot moulds.

    I dont use a thermometer and am a ladle caster from a pot on a propane stove. However, I know the characteristics of the lead and what is hot. My brass moulds and NOE moulds like much hotter alloy than my iron moulds. My Lee 00 buckshot mould likes really hot!

    Running the Lee 00 buckshot mould past typical frosting heat is the only way I could get good fill out and all three high cavities to fill. Once hot and running though the mould works well.

    Longbow
    I think you are right. I'm at 750 and still no dice. Ambient temp here is 31C so around 90 deg in your scale so that's not a (comparable) factor in temp loss really. I'll keep creeping up.

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  4. #44
    Boolit Master

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    Get that nice laminated strung longbow away from that heat!
    "My main ambition in life is to be on the devil's most wanted list."
    Leonard Ravenhill

  5. #45
    Boolit Bub luke777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hogtamer View Post
    Get that nice laminated strung longbow away from that heat!
    It's a bit of an optical illusion Hogtamer. It's well enough away from the heat. Nice spot though! That's my American flat longbow. My favourite rig at the moment.

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  6. #46
    Boolit Master 5Shot's Avatar
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    Ordered the wads and have some balls here from 6pt-sika, so as soon as I have everything here I'll be trying these out.
    If you live on the razor's edge and slip, you will die in two pieces

  7. #47
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5Shot View Post
    Ordered the wads and have some balls here from 6pt-sika, so as soon as I have everything here I'll be trying these out.
    Wads I ordered are “supposed” to be here Tuesday . All that speedy shipping they claim to have is still taking 9 days .
    Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines

  8. #48
    Boolit Bub EVR's Avatar
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    What a great thread!

    Anybody got a clue for a load using Win AA huls or Rem STS/Gun Club hulls? I'm assuming a 2-ball maybe?

  9. #49
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by EVR View Post
    What a great thread!

    Anybody got a clue for a load using Win AA huls or Rem STS/Gun Club hulls? I'm assuming a 2-ball maybe?
    Those are the hulls I plan on using . And I’ll arrive at a load with SR7625 based my WEIGHED weight for the balls used . I wanna try and keep the pressure a bit low and the predicted velocity around 1000-1100 FPS . In the 10 gauge and if the .69” ball is kinda snug in the steel shot wad I’ll use 29.8 grains of SR7625 and that will be in the pressure velocity range I’m looking for .
    Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines

  10. #50
    Boolit Master
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    On a side note I cast 80 or so solid base Lyman sabot slugs from my NOE mold in an alloy of 50/50 WW/Pure . Plan on loading a dozen or so of those the same time I try and do the .600” round balls . Click image for larger version. 

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    Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines

  11. #51
    Boolit Master 5Shot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6pt-sika View Post
    On a side note I cast 80 or so solid base Lyman sabot slugs from my NOE mold in an alloy of 50/50 WW/Pure . Plan on loading a dozen or so of those the same time I try and do the .600” round balls . Click image for larger version. 

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    Did you find load data for that solid slug?
    If you live on the razor's edge and slip, you will die in two pieces

  12. #52
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5Shot View Post
    Did you find load data for that solid slug?
    Not yet I'll weigh them tomorrow and go from there . I shouldn't think the solid base is more then 60 grains extra .
    Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines

  13. #53
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    You won’t have any trouble finding data for the solid base... I have a bunch if you give me the weight I can dig around if you can’t find nuthin..
    Any technology not understood, can seem like Magic!!!

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  14. #54
    Boolit Master
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    The wads arrived from Precision Tuesday I’ve gotta preview an auction tommorrow so I’ll see if I can’t drag a couple loafers to the shop Friday and load some double balls for 12 2 3/4” and possibly triple balls for 12 3” . Also wanna load some 69 balls for the 10 gauge it “appears” to be a fair fit with those rather thick petaled steel wads and hopefully load some 12 2 3/4” with the solid base slugs . FWIW those felt 1/4” wads work very well or so it appears in between the balls . 20’s for the 10 gauge and 28’s for the 12 .
    Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines

  15. #55
    Boolit Bub EVR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6pt-sika View Post
    FWIW those felt 1/4” wads work very well or so it appears in between the balls . 20’s for the 10 gauge and 28’s for the 12 .
    Do they introduce any "give" in the whole payload? I'd think this would be a no-no. Don't you want a solid stack with no slop between the balls? Or are those felt wads "hard"?

    Looking forward to your 2-ball testing.

  16. #56
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by EVR View Post
    Do they introduce any "give" in the whole payload? I'd think this would be a no-no. Don't you want a solid stack with no slop between the balls? Or are those felt wads "hard"?

    Looking forward to your 2-ball testing.
    Yes they’re soft .
    Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines

  17. #57
    Boolit Master
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    Well I have my MEC Steelmaster that’s set for 12 gauge 3” , a MEC 600JR that’s set for 12 gauge 2 3/4” , my MEC Sizemaster that’s set for 10 gauge 2 7/8” and a menagerie of powders , wads , hulls and other stuff in the back of the truck for trial and error at the shop tommorrow . I have no doubt the 10 gauge with 69 ball inside the Precision steel wad should go easily and the 12 gauge 2 3/4” with the solid base Lyman sabot slug . The 12 gauge 2 3/4” and 3” with double or triple .600” balls might be a slightly different story
    Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines

  18. #58
    Boolit Master
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    I’m kinda sniffing around a rather nice but well used Belgium Browning A-5 20 gauge magnum , if I’m able to get the deal struck I’m gonna get a bunch of once fired Remington 20 gauge 3” hulls and another roundball mold
    Parker's , 6.5mm's and my family in the Philippines

  19. #59
    Boolit Bub
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    My .60 cal Tri-Ball Load Results

    James at Dixie slugs was adamant that the round balls are stacked directly on top of each other without anything in between including buffer. I’ve had great luck following this suggestion. I stack the balls with a quarter inch cork or fiber wad in the shut cup. The last round ball will be about half way into the 3 inch wad. Then I hold the balls in place while I pour the spherical buffer and vibrate it all into place. I am having better accuracy results with the 3 1/2” version.


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    Last edited by Drakehammer; 04-05-2019 at 10:22 AM.

  20. #60
    Boolit Bub EVR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drakehammer View Post
    James at Dixie slugs was adamant that the round balls are stacked directly on top of each other without anything in between including buffer. I’ve had great luck following this suggestion. I stack the balls with a quarter inch cork or fiber wad in the shut cup. The last round ball will be about half way into the 3 inch wad. Then I hold the balls in place while I pour the spherical buffer and vibrate it all into place. I am having better accuracy results with the 3 1/2” version.


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    This is what I thot, that one should not place any felt or other material between the balls.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check