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Thread: Need help removing allen head screw

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Need help removing allen head screw

    I have a Marlin 94C with a scope base that was put on with allen head screws using blue locktite. I got 2 of the screws out OK but the other two the head rounded off. Is there any way to get these screws out.





    Thanks for any suggestions or help..

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    50/50 mix acetone and transmission fluid, let soak, then heat with soldering iron to soak in will turn loctite loose, then slowly extract.
    Last edited by Hossfly; 03-07-2019 at 07:05 PM. Reason: Spelling

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Do not use ball Allen, only straight or grind off flat.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master


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    If the interior is too rounded off to get a good purchase with the allen wrench, I have used a Dremel with a cut off wheel to slot it and use a screwdriver.
    Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway!

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  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    You can do several things to be able to turn the screw.

    If you get the loctite heated and you need more purchase but not a whole lot of torque, you can use a small punch to peen the screw heads socket enough to get the allen to grab enough to turn it out.

    Or take an Allen bit for a drill that is just a little too large and grind the flats of the hex on the end so they have a very short taper. Then drive the bit into the socket with a small hammer. Using an impact driver would help removal.

    Or you could slot the head of the screw with a dremel thin cutting wheel and use a flat tip bit. If you slot it, you can also use a small punch to turn the screw by driving it against the outermost edge or the slot in a counterclockwise direction.

    It'll help to break the loctite but not necessary.

    Heat just the screw head by using a soldering iron, or heat a nail red hot with a torch or fire and put it directly onto the screw head.
    Last edited by Bazoo; 03-07-2019 at 07:18 PM.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    OK thanks for the help everyone I will try the heat and grinding a larger allen bit down to size thanks again..

  7. #7
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    I have used a torx bit too (a size up) pounded in when this happens after a good soaking of free all or pb blaster.
    One round at a time.
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  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Loctite pretty much disintegrates at 400F.

    You might have to use an EZ out in that chewed up socket. If that does not work you might have to destroy the base to get at the screw head.
    EDG

  9. #9
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    Are you trying to save the rail? if so i would try a speed-out bit (think my set is from Lowe’s)if the heat doesn’t work. Worst case the fastest way is to use a bit a little bigger then the hex hole and drill in slowly until the head separates fom the threaded portion then you can extract the rest with pliers. Sort of like drilling the head off a pop rivet.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Tell me more about this speed-out bit.If I go to Lowe's what exactly do I ask for?

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
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    They are called screw extractors and come in different sizes.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hossfly View Post
    50/50 mix acetone and transmission fluid, let soak, then heat with soldering iron to soak in will turn loctite loose, then slowly extract.
    That would be my first choice, plus the oversize ground-and-pound-to-fit tool. Hopefully the screw is only held in by the LocTite and hasn't been gorilla-torqued.
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    If you drill the head off like a pop rivet you'll be worse off if the loctite is still holding because then you'll have not much to grab with pliers. The screw extractor looks like a small tapered drill bit with reverse spiral flutes. You might be able to get it to grab in the socket but I'm going to guess not. Generally they need a hole drilled and you don't have much meat in the screw to drill.

    An impact driver will be your best friend if you have one coupled with a ground hex bit.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks Bazoo and everyone else for all the help.

  15. #15
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    I got this set, they have become one of my go to tools anymore.

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/GRABIT-2-Pc-Kit/3030140

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy
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    Driving in a over sized torques bit often works because when hammering on the screw you break loose what ever is holding the screw in, or stretch the screw a little to release the tension. It's a bit late now but in the future some penetrating oil and tapping/hammering on the base of the socket with a punch will help loosen it up. The recommendations for heat cycling the screw are also good ideas, the heat helps break down the locktite and get what ever corrosion is on the screw to release.
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  17. #17
    Boolit Bub
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    I'd go with heat and a torx bit and turn it with tap handle if you have one.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master

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    You can also put a drop of epoxy on your allen wrench and let it set up before removing. I have tapered a larger wrench and driven it into the screw, that worked.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    I got both screws out with out any problem thanks to you all. I used a nail ground down to fit the screw head heated to a bright orange held against the screw head. Then a torx bit tapered to fit the screw tapped in good and tight and the screws backed right out. Thanks for all the help...

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigAlofPa. View Post
    I have used a torx bit too (a size up) pounded in when this happens after a good soaking of free all or pb blaster.
    I have done this several times also. Torx can be pounded in. If you go one size bigger (as long as you can fit the tip in) Just tap it in so it is down in there nice and tight and it will be a good grip. I also agree with the heat it up guys for the locktite. That stuff turns to mush when you heat it.

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