glass bedding.

[Taylor]

Not my first one...but the first time I got a screw stuck. This could be bad. The back one came right out, the front....she's just down right stuck!!

[colchester]

Heat the screw with something like a soldering iron. Once you get it hot enough it will unscrew

[Taylor]

I have a pencil torch, it's acting up too. If I drill the head off, I'm afraid it will mess up the magazine well too. Scary. New gun and and a new Boyds stock.

[Taylor]

Allen head screw...wallered out.

[LAGS]

This situation is one of the reasons I use Guide Screws, and do not bolt the action in with the Assembly Screws.
But sometimes I have to use heat on the guide screws to get them to break free, but there is no head of the screw holding things in .
The guide screws can be grabbed with a pair of pliers since they stick out the bottom and unscrewed with a lot more force if needed than what the screw head can take with a screw driver, or Allen wrench

[RustyReel]

Heat the screw with something like a soldering iron. Once you get it hot enough it will unscrew

Yep, that's what I did. Even the pencil torch would have damaged the wood. The soldering iron may take a while if it is stuck at the threads, not so long if it is stuck by the trigger guard. Be patient, it will come out!

[cwlongshot]

Yep, that's what I did. Even the pencil torch would have damaged the wood. The soldering iron may take a while if it is stuck at the threads, not so long if it is stuck by the trigger guard. Be patient, it will come out!

100% agree!

Heat will allow it to break free, but may take patience.

Many of us have been exactly where you are now!

CW

[LAGS]

I bet that almost all of us that has bedded more than Three rifles has run into a similar problem.
It is too easy to forget to put release agent on the screws or even guide studs.
Just take your time, and you will get it apart.
I still remember my first one, and it was about the third rifle I bedded 40 years ago.
It by far was not the last one either that I had a problem with.

[country gent]

Okay here's your best bet for an easy save. First find an allen wrench bidder than the head and fit it to the "wallered" out head as tight as possible. Ideally a snug fit that requires a few light taps to drive it in. This gives the most bite on the socket as possible. Think of this as an allen socket easy out. heat the bolt up with a soldering gun or wood burners tip in the socket you need to give this some time to work thru the bolt the head will heat quickly but the shank will take longer. Tap tight wrench in and work with steady pressure to remove once bolt is hot. A little tip a lot of newer epoxies have a temp limit of 400*-600* to break down point. Here the action, stock, epoxy mass are going to pull heat away also. Sometimes the vibrations of light tapping will loosen the bond. The snug fitted allen wrench goes along ways in this project since it gets a much better bite in the socket as long as the head isn't cracked or broken. Mark the wrench when fit since due to rounded head it may only fit in the socket one way now,

[Taylor]

I got it..had to drill the head off the screw. If it could have gone wrong on this one, it did. Everything is cleaned up and ready to go back together. All except the extra part...a spring, goes to the trigger, which way? Up or down?

Savage 220 slug gun. Long flat spring. The pin that hold everything together holds it to.

[Taylor]

Gotter did. Ain't had an extra part since I worked on carburetors. Now if it'll shoot good.

[lefty o]

if using screws when bedding, after an hr or so, back the screws off a tad then snug em back up. that will help to break the glass bond to the screw if any got on it, before it sets up to rock solid state.

[Taylor]

I thought I had lubed everything real good. Apparently not.

[cwlongshot]

WOOHOO!!

Good job!

CW

[Taylor]

Yesterday sucked...all day long. If it could have gone wrong, it did. Got everything squared away in the end. Too much extra work. But it's done and over.

[Taylor]

Yeah...it ain't done and over. Went to put everything together this morning. If the bolt is closed, the magazine won't seat. If the bolt is open, the magazine will seat, but the bolt won't close. Bound up tighter than a drum. If I loosen the screws, bolt will cycle. So I made some washers to put under the magazine well to extend the distance, didn't work. Only way any thing works is if the screws are loose.

[Taylor]

Took a break from it. Made a run to Midsouth, came home and put everything back together. Made sure both washers were where I wanted them. It worked. Magazine seats and locks. Bolt cycles like it should. Oh yeah! Now it don't eject. Getting closer.

[Texas by God]

It sounds like you over tightened the guard screws while the bedding compound was wet. Try a thin washer bent to the action contour in between the reciever and the stock. The front screw should go through the washer. As always, a picture trumps a bunch of words- the 220 is basically a Savage 110 shotgun, correct? A picture of the action bottom and stock in letting would help.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[Taylor]

You're right Texas, got that all worked out. But there is no ejector on this thing. 2 extractors, one each side of the bolt face. But no ejector. Or none that I can see/find. It cycles great now, extracts nice, won't eject the hull.

[Taylor]

Found the issue...

Operator headspace and timing.

Remember the extra part? That was the ejector. Since it just fell out on disassembly, I didn't really know were it went. Which I did figger out. I put it in upside down. It works....I think...I hope.