Stub job barrel question

[Wolfer]

I suspect your right about that.

[JSnover]

I don’t have any trouble cutting outside threads. Ive never tried inside threads and I believe I could for a short distance of an inch or so. But not 8/10”.

Give it some more thought. We're not talking about a properly made, load-bearing thread, just roughing the surface for a stronger joint. If you've ever bored to a shoulder you shouldn't have any trouble with this.

[country gent]

The shallow coarse thread helps to carry epoxy into the joint and gives a mechanical lock to it. It only needs to be .010-.015 deep on a side and as coarse as possible. A threading tool works or a narrow grooving tool works to cut the spiral down the tenon. Don't think thread but oils groove in a bushing or shaft. This groove will help carry epoxy into the joint and make a100% bond.

[Wolfer]

I’m sure there have been tests ran on epoxy strength.

I’m of the opinion that if you bored a hole in a block of steel and didn’t polish it out. Just leave the drill marks in. Then turn a shaft a few thousands smaller. Don’t polish it either but leave as rough as possible. Say .010 more or less. After curing good put it in a press and press it out.

I believe if that hole of say 5/8” by 6” deep will take a considerable amount of pressure to push it out.
I could be wrong, I often am.

[John Taylor]

I have done a few doubles and found that a nut can be made to fit the chamber of a shotgun barrel, the barrel turned down to fit the bore and threaded for the chamber nut. The nut is left long so it can be tightened and then cut off. The one I'm working on now is a 16 gauge being made into an 8X72R. The barrels are contoured to match the shotgun barrel where they are cut off and after polishing it is hard to see where the joint is. This makes a clean and strong attachment. A little loctite keeps things from coming loose.

[GhostHawk]

I have a 9mm stubb job that was done exactly as John Taylor describes above.

It is a 9mm, I was able to pick it up fairly inexpensively as it had slipped when he was drilling his scope holes and shot aprox 18" to 2' to the left of where sighted at 25 yards.

I knew this going in, bought it, had a gunsmith move the scope base 3/8ths an inch forward and drill and tap new holes which also covered the old ones.

Shoots like a dream out to 100, never tried further.

On mine the nut was cut down, then welded so it could not work loose and screw thing up. Makes a nice looking barrel IMO. And for 200$ + 60$ to get the scope base fixed I'm happy as all get out with it.

[woodbutcher]

Just a thought here.And maybe Mr Taylor could verify.I would think that a good epoxy to secure the barrel would possibly be Brownells AcraGlas of one flavor or another.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

[John Taylor]

Just a thought here.And maybe Mr Taylor could verify.I would think that a good epoxy to secure the barrel would possibly be Brownells AcraGlas of one flavor or another.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

I use 262 Loctite for liners. Never had one come loose and a bit of a pain if you install the wrong liner and have to remove it ( don't ask).

[woodbutcher]

Hmmmmmmmmmm.Yeah,that would be a real problem.Thanks for your reply.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo