Need a Better Powder Measure!!!

[1hole]

The OLD beam scales had little or no damping and they did stabilize slowly but I don't know of any those being made for more than 35 years. I've never seen a magnetically beam scale require more than 2-3 seconds to stabilize ... that's close enough to instant for me.

IMHO, sweating precision charges for handguns (and a lot of rifles/cartridges) is a waste of time. Truth is, a couple tenths one way or the other would only matter if we used charges on the ragged edge of KABOOM and surely none of us would do that.

The advantages of beam scales over digitals is:

1. No concern over line voltage, stray magnetic fields, warm up.

2. A balance beam scale will last forever with no loss of sensitivity or accuracy if it isn't physically damaged.

3. Beam scales follow the changes of a powder trickler immediately. Few digitals do and that makes it difficult to trickle-up precision charges.

4. Beam scales don't "wander" during use; set it and forget it.

5. Reloading digitals (all of them) are cheeply made, throw-away devices. Electronic devices often fail and without warning.

I've been using my old Lyman M5 scale since '65. A lot of powder has gone through its pan and it still reads exactly the same as it did when new. I have one small digital I use to weigh cases and large bullets, NOT POWDER, and I don't expect it to last as long as the Lyman. (I say Lyman because that's what it is but it's not unique, I doubt any other beam scale would do less.)

[Ian Robertson]

Hi Guys, I have not read all the posts but....
Lee tools are a bit like Kraft Dinner, everybody likes it but no one will admit it.
I use a lot of Lee tools and my latest was the Auto Drum measure. I bought it to replace a brand new Dillon measure on a new 650 press. All powder measures are less than perfect but in my tests over the years the Lee is the best way to go.

[44magLeo]

Most other brands of scales have more than just the zero on the scale body. They have graduated marking above and below the zero mark. That's the one thing Lee could do to improve that scale.
On your Lee scale there is couple ways to add mark. Use a ruler and measure up and down from the zero mark and add marks a 1/8 inch intervals.
Or if you want it more precise you can use the scale to make check weights. Use wire and cut some pieces. Use the scale to make .5 gr weights. Make some 1 gr weights. Some two.
Now with the scale empty and set to zero. add one of the .5 gr weights. This will deflect the beam up. Use a Put a mark on the body of the scale where the beam points. Swap the .5 for a 1 gr weight. Add a mark for that weight. Add weights for as far up the body as you want.
To do the marks below the zero you toss in a bunch of your weights. Zero it out and remove weights to locate marks at the same intervals as those above.
Now when you throw a charge in the pan, watch it swing. As the beam swing up and down watch the marks. If the weight of powder matches the setting on the scale the beam will swing up and down to the same marks above and below the zero.
As in If it swings up to the 1 gr mark it should swing down to the 1 gr mark. If it doesn't then you need to adjust the powder measure till it does. You can also quickly determine just how much the charge is above or below the desired weight. If it swings up to 1 gr but swings down to 2 grs you now it's of be 1 gr.
This method, once you get used to it is just as accurate as letting it settle to a stop and is much quicker.
This method of operation is why other brands have the graduated marks for the beam pointer.
Leo

[RED BEAR]

I like my lee perfect powder measure. I did have to remove the lip in the measuring chamber to get really small charges less than 1/10 grain and had to lap it in. There are threads on here t tell how to do this. It is pretty consistent usually no more than 1/10 off. Never used anything else but in my experience you really can't go wrong with rcbs never found a better company.