My Krag Sporter

[Texas by God]

Almost there. I'll finish it at the end of the project. A .22lr hull makes a good holder for the screw. Forgive the blurred pic of the dremel

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[Der Gebirgsjager]

Great idea, using the .22 case.

[KLR]

Nicely done.

[Texas by God]

Thanks. Our wet year continues so I may get to play in the shop some this week. Gosh I hate to miss work

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[waksupi]

True, but in this case the orientatiion of the slot can be determined before cutting off the bolt. Cut the slot so that it takes no more than 1/8th of a turn to bring it in line. Save the final shaping of the head until after the slot is properly clocked.

If you make the mistake of shaping and slotting the head first, it may require taking off enough for nearly a full turn and the head will be too thin afterwards to look good.

There should be no circumstance where you need to take off more than 1/4 turn, and that is a negligible amount to remove.

[Texas by God]

Thanks for the screw timing tips, gentlemen. Miles to go, the Krag is definitely a different animal.
If anyone has good pictures of an original Krag stock inletting-I would certainly appreciate looking at them. I want the inletting to look correct at least. This is the first time I've ever restocked a rifle without an original stock for comparison
Thomas.

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[gnoahhh]

Cut out with a scroll saw just shy of your lines. Then sneak up on final inlet with the same methods you used to final inlet the receiver- with inletting black, lipstick, etc. Try to make the fit so close that the metal appears to have grown inside the tree.

[Texas by God]

That's the plan gnoahh. I sure want to see original inletting to see the various humps, shelves and cuts, though. The scroll saw is indispensable for this job for sure. The sharpie lines are just general area markers for my benefit.

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[firebyprolong]

This should give you a pretty good idea of inleting, keep in mind that at some point the wedge of wood in front of the bolt handle has been broken off this stock, that will be corrected before I put it back on a rifle. Hope they help. If you need a better shot of something just let me know. Yours is coming along vet nicely by the way, I look forward to seeing it finished.

[ulav8r]

There should be no circumstance where you need to take off more than 1/4 turn, and that is a negligible amount to remove.

That should be 1/2, unless you put in two slots at 90 degrees to each other.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Attachment 237884Attachment 237885Attachment 237886Attachment 237887Attachment 237888
This is a new Boyd's semi-inlet, but almost a drop-in.

DG

[skeettx]

Wow, lots of work and love
Rave ON !!

[Texas by God]

Ask and ye shall receive! Thank you both; that's perfect!

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[Texas by God]

I'm going with a used Hogue pad. Some screw holes need to be filled and this is how my shop teacher taught me to do it 45years ago......

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[Texas by God]

I'm still working down the cheek piece and I found that a 1/4"-20 stud will thread in enough with finger pressure to serve as an inletting guide screw. I need a new Surform blade.

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[swheeler]

TBG not trying to be mean but that cheek piece looks funky I hope you got enough wood left to salvage it, maybe a straight comb now? Carry on.

[Texas by God]

No offense taken. It's still being imagined and it may go away entirely.

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[Texas by God]

Going slow. I think it looks a little better now?

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[swheeler]

That looks better, but the real question is do you and your cheek like it. Carry on looking good!

[waksupi]

I'm still working down the cheek piece and I found that a 1/4"-20 stud will thread in enough with finger pressure to serve as an inletting guide screw. I need a new Surform blade.

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Whoever made the stock blank kind of screwed the pooch on it. It is extremely difficult to get the lines to flow properly when they leave you that to work with. You may want to consider the oval shaped European design.