Fitting a grip frame?

[Wheelguns 1961]

I am converting one of my blackhawks to a bisley grip frame. I have an in the white new bisley grip frame. I installed it, and it needs considerable fitting. I was expecting this. My question is what is the best way to remove material? I marked it up so I know where the material needs to be removed. I know that a series of files would do the job, but is there a better way? Maybe a belt sander? If so what grit would you use? This is going to be my first attempt at this, so any and all information is appreciated. Thanks in advance!

[Snow ninja]

Belt sander/ Dremel tool would be fastest, but that usually leads to too much material being removed too quickly. I would get a couple quality files and go to town on it. It will come off quicker than you think. Go slow and test fit often. As the saying goes, you can't put it back on there (easily).

[Wheelguns 1961]

Thanks Snow ninja! That is kind of what I was thinking.

[rkrcpa]

Let Ron Power show you the way

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oSAIraMxv_A

[Wheelguns 1961]

Thanks alot, Rodney. This is the grip frame I bought from you, neighbor.

[rkrcpa]

Thanks alot, Rodney. This is the grip frame I bought from you, neighbor.

Quite welcome. Don't forget pictures of the final product!

[RED BEAR]

Stick with a file and don't get in a hurry its a lot easier to take off than put back on.

[Whiterabbit]

I used a file. The sides went easy, but getting the tool marks off the rest of the frame was diabolical. Worth it in the end tho.

I had a luxury. I reblued the frame. So I just bolted it on and went to town till the whole thing was perfect. destroyed the frame finish, but it all want back to blue

[Wheelguns 1961]

The frame I have is new and never blued. When I get it fit, I will either cold blue it, or send it to a friend to hot blue. I guess it all depends on how nice it turns out, or how bad I want to shoot it.

[CraigOK]

I'd love to do that one of these days. Do post up pics as you're going and what tools methods you used. Good luck!

[Whiterabbit]

Mark Lee express.

It's great.

[country gent]

I would recommend Layout blue a sharp fine scribe fine files and working slow and checking often. Its easier to remove than put back on so fine files and work slow. on an inked part a sharp crisp scribe line can allow you to get very close before the real fitting begins. A wrap or 2 of tape around the scribe gives an "cushion" of .003-.005 on a side for safety.

[contender1]

Files, and take your time. A proper job is something to be proud of,, and a poor job will reflect upon the maker.
And do the correct polishing & a proper hot blue. Final results will make you much happier. A few extras days or weeks will be nothing in a few years.

[Wheelguns 1961]

Thank you all for your reccomdations! This will probably take awhile. I really appreciate everyone’s input!

[country gent]

If this is your first precision work using hand tools. You might consider a piece of scrap steel and a little practice cutting flat square surfaces along with draw filing. Learn before and get better as you go.

[Tackleberry41]

I used files on the frame I did, stainless so a bit harder to deal with. It worked as is out of the package, just oversized externally compared to the frame.

[Wheelguns 1961]

I think I can file most of it flat. The two rounded ears at the top need significant material removal, and they are rounded, so I will just take my time and work it slowly. What grit do I need to polish it to for a good blueing job?

[contender1]

For bluing a steel gun part, the smoother the surface, the slicker & better looking the bluing will be.
Get the file marks out with rougher grits, and work to finer grits to get the slick surface. Many gunsmiths stop at 800 grit,,, but I've been known to drop to 1000 & even 1200 to really slick the surface.