I think that standard full wadcutters are the best load for most people with these guns. I have carpal tunnel and a bit of essential tremor. I'll stick with heavy and slow in my .38's!
I think that standard full wadcutters are the best load for most people with these guns. I have carpal tunnel and a bit of essential tremor. I'll stick with heavy and slow in my .38's!
Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.
i used to think the same but have gone back to only practice/train with medium .38spl loads weekly, 50 to 100 rounds per session, and always 10 to 20 rounds of +P added in. getting used to the real thing over and over on a weekly basis is just keeping it relatively real. this makes for better real world readiness conditioning, with no "transition" foibles for concern if the need for actual defense arises. "full scale" shooting is also more interesting, at least for me.
I use to carry a Smith 442 when I worked nights at a local gun shop. Always loaded it with Gold Dots. Was nice to be able to take my pick of carry for the evening from the display case and ammo from the shelf. So over the years I've had the option to try many CCW sizes and makes. Now, carrying while working in a store environ presents a host of different factors than one would encounter while out and about. When it came down to carry now that I'm not doing store duty anymore I either carry a Glock 26 in a Galco ankle holster or a snub nose in my pants. For the revolver I decided on a J sized frame, 5 shot, but a larger caliber than .358 or .356. I chose a Charter Arms Bulldog "On Duty" in 44 Spcl. Basically 20 oz. 2.5" Stainless steel snubby with inside pant holster. I've also opted to load with PC coated cast boolits. These are sitting on top of 7.5 grains of Unique.
What's also nice is to have lost 25 pounds so I now have 5 or 6 pairs of Levi 501's in 34 waist to wear when I carry the Bulldog now that I'm into 32 waist pants again.
Last edited by MOA; 05-19-2019 at 09:18 AM.
Spent some time with my little Charter Undercover .38 before work today. Biggest problem with snubbies is, they magnify every little imperfection in your shooting. Im still planning to get a .22 revolver, but I am going to take your advice and shoot this one and my S&W 637 at least weekly to iron out my bad habits.
Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.
Posted in another forum here ..
While back took a lady out to shoot as she is fairly new to the sport , started with 22 and went up in calibers ..
She really enjoyed it and a couple weeks later get a phone call ... "I want a revolver !", oooookayyyy I said .
In our previous conversations I mentioned the advantages with a small hammer-less ...
We went to the local Sportsman's Wharehouse as they had a good selection to choose from and the counter person was very good as he was not highly opinionated , just informative to her questions and I refrained from to much input also wanting her to make her own choice.
We walked out with a S+W 642 airweight , 38 special ....her pick.
Later on she gave me the gun to work some loads in for her .
Knowing off the shelf factory will be hard for her , I have come up with a nice little package with 2.3 gr's of Clean Shot under a Mihec 125 gr. hp ...very small hollow point but nice and surprisingly accurate in this little toy (same in my avatar pic )
looking forward to the next phase with her.
It is much easier to fool people ,
than to convince them they have been fooled !
If you can read this , thank a teacher ...
If you can read this in English , .. thank a Vet !
Do the 125's shoot to point of aim in the 642? The 642 I used to have and my current 637 are dead on with 148-160 grain slugs. 125's are doable but usually print a bit low.
Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.
It is much easier to fool people ,
than to convince them they have been fooled !
If you can read this , thank a teacher ...
If you can read this in English , .. thank a Vet !
With 8 pages of discussion, I am surprised that no one has mentioned the Kimber K6S. They are available in 2 inch and 3 inch barrels, both double action only and double/single action. The 2 inch models weigh 23 ounces, which is about 3.5 ounces more than a steel frame S&W model 36, but a few ounces less than a Ruger SP-101. 6 round cylinder and very compact. Years ago when the S&W model 337 featherweight came on the market, I bought one. Fired a few cylinders of standard pressure 38s through it and then sold it. It was great for carrying in a vest pocket because it was small and lightweight, but for me it was hell to shoot. I have also owned a Colt Detective Special, A Colt Magnum Carry, and 2 SP-101s, one each 2.25 inch and a 3 inch. All but my old 36 have been sold or traded off, but now in my senior years, I am lusting for a compact 6 shot snub 357. The Kimber DASA looks to be the logical choice for me. When in my 20s, I carried a 2.5" S&W Mod 19, but they are a belt or shoulder holster gun. Way too big and heavy for pocket carry.
Hardcast - you hit on the basic criteria of all snubnose revolvers - the size/weight ratio.
I am a long term, dedicated disciple of the snubnose DA revolver. When selecting a snubnose revolver for concealed carry; the decision making process involves that all important size/weight ratio.
When looking at the size/weight continuum, it breaks down in the following fashion:
The 1 7/8" DAO airweight S&W J-frames are pretty much the smallest/lightest of the available guns. (there is the alloy framed, titanium cylinder 342PD Centennial that is even lighter but let's stick to the conventional airweight 442 & 642)
At the other end of the snubnose DA revolvers we have the 2" and 2.5" S&W K-frames such as the models 10, 64, 19 and the old alloy framed model 12.
In between the DAO 1 7/8" airweight J-frames and the 2"/2.5" K-frames - we have all of the stuff in the middle. That group includes the Kimber K6S, the old Colt Cobra's, Agents and Detective Specials. The Taurus model 85 and the 2.25" Ruger SP101 fits in there somewhere.
For me a hammer spur is an absolute deal breaker but a bobbed hammer is an acceptable compromise on a snubnose DA revolver.
As much as I like the 2.25" Ruger SP101 with a bobbed hammer, that gun is just a little too big & heavy for pocket carry.
A 2" or 2.5" round butt K-frame is almost exclusively a holster carry gun.
An old 2" Detective Special with a bobbed hammer is right at the limit for pocket carry and a 2" alloy framed Cobra or Agent with a bobbed hammer is a bit more pocket friendly simply due to the lower weight.
The new DAO 2" Kimber K6S does look very promising. I would put the 2" DAO Kimber in the same category as the old 2" Detective Special but with the Kimber's stainless construction, stronger lockwork and internal hammer - it's clearly superior to the old Detective Special.
Compact snubnose revolvers ARE difficult to shoot, that's the price you pay for that small size/weight. They require dedicated practice and real commitment. The true strength of a snubnose DA revolver is you can always have it with you. There's some compromise involved and each person has to find what compromise they are willing to accept.
While we are mostly in agreement, I cannot shoot those super lightweight snubs with wood grips. It hurts the bone at the base of my thumb. Rubber grips that cover the backstop are a must for them. Unfortunately the rubber grips are not pocket friendly and most of them add bulk to the gun. Also if I get that Kimber K6S, I have no intention of firing full power 357s through it. I have N and L frame Smiths for that.
The super lightweight J-frames are a challenge. I do carry one and it has wood grips but I agree with you that it can be a handful.
The 642 I had, shot point of aim with 125 grain +p ammo, it shot a little high with regular pressure ammo. It kicked a fair piece with either really. I got to where I could hit a 6" plate at 25 yards and my 2/3 IPSC at 50. It shot a little to the side at 50 yards, I don't recall how much exactly but something like 8". I called smith and Wesson and told them about it and the guy on the phone said something about point blank and how 50 yards was too far for a snub. I promptly told him I practice and could actually shoot! I returned the gun, I can't remember if they paid shipping or I had to, but they turned the barrel a little and sent it back free of charge, and it then hit centered at 50 yards.
Snubnose revolvers are capable of outstanding accuracy. Put one in a Ransom rest and you will see that. The problem is the shooter!
Short sight radius, tiny sights and small grips make it tough to extract that potential accuracy and that is the reason practice is so critical with a snubnose.
Grips can make or break these guns. There are some really good snubbies out there which are handicapped by limited to non-existent choices in grips. My little Charter Arms Undercover is one of them. There really aren't any grips available for it that strike a good balance between comfort and concealment like there are for S&W and Colt. Pachmayr makes the excellent Compac, however it really adds alot of bulk on the little Undercover and is more at home on the Bulldog. Mine wears a plastic aftermarket copy of the factory wood panel grip, to which I added some heat stippling for badly needed traction.
On the other hand, I've been able to try all kinds of grips on my S&W 637 and have settled on the Pachmayr Compac Pro. This grip is just as concealable as any other I have tried and fits me perfectly.
Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.
Well once again we go down a path that we've already gone down.
I carry Airweight 2" snubs. I value "six for sure" vs. a 5-shot revolver. I do not feel under gunned.
Attachment 242270Attachment 242271
The ENEMY is listening.
HE wants to know what YOU know.
Keep it to yourself.
Had a gun dealer tell my (wife was with me) that a .38 was as useless as a purse full of rocks for self defense. I asked he'd volunteer to stand 50ft from her and let her shoot at him. All of a sudden a 38 was acceptable for self defense. I even volunteered to take it down to a .22.. He still waffled.
Any 38 that fits your body and hand will work. Shoot it till you're comfy with it. I do personally like my old S&W model 36 and a .22 Beretta to carry around.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |