Inline FabricationReloading EverythingRepackboxLee Precision
Snyders JerkyLoad DataMidSouth Shooters SupplyWideners
Titan Reloading RotoMetals2
Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Mauser 98 magazine box to receiver fit

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    106

    Mauser 98 magazine box to receiver fit

    Should there be a gap between the top of the magazine box and the receiver cutout it fits into? If so, how much (using a wooden stock)?
    Thanks!
    "Never attribute to malice that which is adequately explained by stupidity"

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    Reg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Gateway to the Rockies
    Posts
    1,427
    Yes, 1/32" aprox. Just so it dosn't touch
    Facta non verba

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    5,268
    .

    If you're bedding the receiver, there should also be a minute clearance between the rear of the magazine well and the stock web.

    Also, if bedding, don't forget to clearance the bottom, both sides, and the front face of the recoil lug, for the best accuracy.


    .
    Now I lay me down to sleep
    A gun beside me is what I keep
    If I awake, and you're inside
    The coroner's van is your next ride

  4. #4
    Moderator
    Texas by God's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    14,436
    Yes a little to compress the stock. A layer of electrical tape in the places Pietro mentioned coated with release agent is an easy method to use. The rear guard screw sleeve should be used always as well- I've seen it left out and you can bind the action without it.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    106
    Quote Originally Posted by pietro View Post
    .
    If you're bedding the receiver, there should also be a minute clearance between the rear of the magazine well and the stock web.

    Also, if bedding, don't forget to clearance the bottom, both sides, and the front face of the recoil lug, for the best accuracy.
    .
    The back face of the recoil lug has to be a hard/tight fit obviously. Should the rear tang have a tiny amount of clearance as well? I seem to recall some claims that there should be a tiny amount of clearance (to prevent stock splitting) and others that say none at all (maybe that's with glass bedding?). I plan on turning the rear guard screw spacer essentially into a pillar by epoxying the spacer in place. I've got some aluminum tubing with an I.D. that fits the 1/4-22 rear guard screw that I am planning on using for a spacer/pillar.

    This is my first time stocking a Mauser 98. The others have been .22 rimfires and one Sako. I've been using Kuhnhausen's shop manual and Wesbrook's Professional Stockmaking as references.
    Last edited by Steven66; 02-22-2019 at 10:48 AM. Reason: explanation
    "Never attribute to malice that which is adequately explained by stupidity"

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    5,268
    Quote Originally Posted by Steven66 View Post

    Should the rear tang have a tiny amount of clearance as well ?

    I plan on turning the rear guard screw spacer essentially into a pillar by epoxying the spacer in place.

    Yes, leave a 1/32" space @ the rear of the tang - as stated above, a layer of masking tape, waxed after application, will remove easily & leave the desired gap after removel.

    I would be VERY careful about bedding the guard screw spacers - insure that the guard screw itself doesn't contact anything other than the receiver threads (plug threaded holes with paste wax prior to bedding) and their seats in the T/G assembly.
    If they contact the stock wood, they will eventually promote splitting.

    Another thing to think about is to inlay a threaded steel screw across the stock wood (perpendicular to the bore) of the recoil lug w/o the ends showing outside the stock, as a strengthening cross bolt. (Probably only needed for .30cal & up chamberings)


    .
    Now I lay me down to sleep
    A gun beside me is what I keep
    If I awake, and you're inside
    The coroner's van is your next ride

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    106
    Quote Originally Posted by pietro View Post

    I would be VERY careful about bedding the guard screw spacers - insure that the guard screw itself doesn't contact anything other than the receiver threads (plug threaded holes with paste wax prior to bedding) and their seats in the T/G assembly.
    If they contact the stock wood, they will eventually promote splitting.

    Another thing to think about is to inlay a threaded steel screw across the stock wood (perpendicular to the bore) of the recoil lug w/o the ends showing outside the stock, as a strengthening cross bolt. (Probably only needed for .30cal & up chamberings)
    .
    I've been extremely careful to plug holes with modelling clay and use lots of release agent ever since one stock held onto the the barrelled action really tight. It finally came loose after several hours in the chest freezer.

    I planned on using masking tape and wax/grease/release compound around the screw shaft to center it in the spacer so that the rear screw wouldn't contact the inside walls of the spacer. I suppose there's no particular reason to epoxy the spacer into the stock. i could just use a weak glue to keep it from falling out of the stock on disassembly.

    There's a crossbolt on my pattern stock. I hadn't planned on using one in the final stock, but I could probably shorten the crossbolt ends and bed it into the recoil lug shoulder as well. The rifle is chambered for .30-'06.
    Last edited by Steven66; 02-22-2019 at 04:27 PM. Reason: hadn't finished writing
    "Never attribute to malice that which is adequately explained by stupidity"

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check