Help With a TC .50 cal Rifle

[LAGS]

I always use a Bore Brush to clean my rifles.
But I am aware of the relationship of the brush to the Bore Diameter, and as seen in this thread, the Relationship to the Breech block opening.
It is not like I am trying to scrub Lead out of the bore.
A Loose fitting brush works just fine to get those last particles of powder out of the barrel

[Mac118]

I had a similar problem with an Investarms rifle I got on the cheap. After I tried to fire it I knew why it was so cheap - wouldn't fire. I had to put powder in the bolster after unscrewing the nipple to get it to fire. Did that twice and took it home to see what the problem was. I put a rod in the bore and marked and measured it. It showed there was about 3/4 inch short of the breech. Stuck an aggressive screw tip in and I pulled out a wad of copper bristles similar to the one in the pic. After that it shot perfectly and is one of the more accurate muzzlestuffers I own!

[fiberoptik]

I picked up a CVA inline for $75 at a gun show once. Got it home and very nearly popped a cap on it in my basement. Decided to check it with the ramrod. Came up way short. I already had another CVA in-line, so I used my tools to pull the breach plug and lo and behold, it was double loaded ! Ball & powder twice! Sure glad I didn’t pop a cap!


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[bob208]

this is why I never use a brass brush to clean a muzzleloader. I have removed more then one. I can not believe the trash people have stuck down a muzzleloader barrel.

[megasupermagnum]

I use a brush on mine every time. I tried to grind a chamber scraper, but it never seemed to work that well. I find a 45 caliber brush is perfect, and does a great job cleaning the crud that water can't. I push it all the way in and turn it clockwise. I also only use brushes that are looped, not just pressed into the fitting.

Used muzzleloaders are the worst it seems. I've never seen anybody knowingly sell a rusty cartridge rifle without telling, yet a rusty, dysfunctional muzzleloader is the norm. I'd go out on a limb and say 9 out of 10 used muzzleloaders you find are shot and put away without cleaning. The owner then either looses interest, or can't figure out why it wont fire. They then sell the gun, and play dumb.

[n.h.schmidt]

I have found rust in every used muzzleloader I have bought. I think they were all cleaned. The rust is insidious. It wiill surprise you. While they were likely cleaned ,they were not preserved well. Personally I clean with water sprayed with window cleaner. The ammonia type. When dry I use uncut Ballistal. I shoot mostly Pyrodex and use home made caps and they can rust anything.
n.h.schmidt

[waksupi]

Good idea. You'll seldom get the barrel flats to line up with those on the breech plug if/when you do.

I really don't know why people say that. I've unbreeched dozens of rifles and smoothbores. I use a sharp chisel to make an index mark on the bottom, and it is easy to re-index them.

[bob208]

I too have never had a problem with indexing the flats.

[LAGS]

I am having a problem trying to pull the breech plug on My TC .45 Hawken.
I have the proper wrench, but when I try to remove it, the barrel slips or cracks the wood blocks in my Barrel Vise.
The blocks are made out of very good Oak.
Next thing I want to try is heating up the barrel a bit.
The reason I am pulling the breech plug is, I see a little rust way down in the chamber.
The breech plug may be rusted in.
I want to get the breech plug out to see if the barrel is worth cleaning up or is another one to be sent to Hoyt to be Rebored.
Are there any other suggestions on how to get the breech plug out with out marring up the outside of the barrel too much.

[fiberoptik]

Soak with Kroil a few days, or atf/acetone 50/50. Try brass vice jaw protectors.
Add heat.

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[LAGS]

Thanks Fiberoptic.
I am making a new set of wood blocks that fully wrap around the barrel, and will try a lead shim inside them to see if it helps the gripping of the barrel.
I was going to use my Brass Vise Jaws, but that has limited contact on the barrel hitting two flats only.
I also think I can get more pressure on the barrel in my Wheeler Barrel Vise, over a bench vise.
But before my next attempt, I will try Soaking the barrel and plug the Nipple hole with a 1/4-28 bolt.
Thanks for the suggestion.
If it doesn't break free with reasonable torque, I will try heating the barrel a bit at the end by the breech plug.
The Plugs in my .56 SB and .50 TC Hawkens came loose with no problem, same way others I did years ago on other rifles that I had before.

[LAGS]

Just for an Update.
I was able to get the breech plug out this morning without marking up the barrel at all.
Last night I made a new set of Barrel Blocks out of Oak that Fit with a Press fit around the barrel.
I also took the suggestion about letting the barrel soak overnight with Acetone and ATF.
I also Epoxy Molded the TC breech plug wrench to the breech plug so there was NO play between the wrench and the breech plug.
The plug was still super tight, but came out with the use of my Barrel Vise and a 20" crescent wrench on the TC wrench Fitting.
The barrel is not Rusted.
It looks like what I saw down the bore is some Old Hard Grease that looked like rust build up.
To get the TC wrench off the barrel breech plug, I just warmed up the whole thing with my Propane Torch till the bedding compound I used softened.
Time to put the whole thing back together.
But even though my other rifle, A T/C.56 Smooth Bore has a good bore, I still am considering sending it to Hoyt to be rifled into something else.
But at least the .45 T/C wont have to take the trip also.
Thanks for your suggestions.