Is it common to have to resize 45 acp brass several times at once

[Rustynails]

I am wondering if it is common to have to resize brass with several pulls of the single stage press arm in order have it pass a go - no go head space gauge? I'm new to reloading and always thought it only took one time to size a case.
Also I have seen many cases pass the head space test once sized, but after a few days sitting out, they fail. Can brass move once it is sized? I had to resize several primed rounds with several pulls of the press arm to get them to pass. Is there a specific brand that this happens to more often? Is it just bad? Or is my Lee sizer die not working like it should?
I'm using range brass with several different head stamps and case thickness. My die is set up correctly according to the directions. Is this something that just happens?

[tazman]

I have never heard of that one. Sorry.

[Baltimoreed]

Invest in a .45 acp Lee Bulge buster push through die, I have .45 autos, revolvers and carbines [which are very hard on brass]. I always run my loads through the lee die and they work in anything. It irons out all the damage and imperfections especially at the head where your sizing die can’t reach. Use a single stage press bolted down tight cause sometimes they don’t want to resize. Not a Lee fan but these work.

[Omega]

I am wondering if it is common to have to resize brass with several pulls of the single stage press arm in order have it pass a go - no go head space gauge? I'm new to reloading and always thought it only took one time to size a case.
Also I have seen many cases pass the head space test once sized, but after a few days sitting out, they fail. Can brass move once it is sized? I had to resize several primed rounds with several pulls of the press arm to get them to pass. Is there a specific brand that this happens to more often? Is it just bad? Or is my Lee sizer die not working like it should?
I'm using range brass with several different head stamps and case thickness. My die is set up correctly according to the directions. Is this something that just happens?

I think it depends on what fired those cases. I have found that in the 5.56 military cases the ones fired in the SAW take a bit more to resize. Also, it seemed to me, when I converted 5.56 to 300 Blk using my Lee dies I would have to size, turn, size again. It may have been the same SAW issue with those as well though. The SAW has a slightly bigger chamber so brass expands just a bit more, and brass does have a bit of spring-back, though it's usually pretty fast, haven't heard of them springing back after being stored. Maybe your brass was fired in a larger chambered weapon?

[Hossfly]

I think Omega nailed it, fired in larger chamber.

[jmorris]

Most fails with a case gauge will be the rim. This is because if you are not using a roll sizer or push through, you are not sizing that part because it’s in the shell holder.

Turn the case around backwards and give it a twist in the gauge and try it again.

FWIW using the barrel, you won’t find these problems because there is no contact. However, that may or may not fail to enter the breech face.



So you have rounds that “plunked” into the barrel just fine yet you have a “mystery malfunction” at some point because it doesn’t fully chamber because of a defect on the rim.



It is fairly rare in any case and doesn’t take long to clear but you only have to loose one match by a few tenths of a second because of one and you will case gauge every round you fire in competition.

[Rich/WIS]

Three variables here:

1. Sizing die dimensions
2. Gauge dimensions
3. Chamber dimensions

Correct gauge for your rounds is the chamber, load a few dummies and "plunk" test them in the pistol chamber. Watch seating depth so you are not jamming the bullet in the rifling. If they drop in and out you are good to go. If not then you have another issue.

Mike the sized case and compare to a new cartridge and also to SAAMI spec for the round. If way out try a different sizing die.

One common issue frequently raised in this and other forums is "it don't fit the gauge". You are reloading the ammo to shoot in your gun, and if it fits and works then you are good to go. The gauge is only useful if it has the same dimensions as your chamber. Curious if you tried a factory round in the gauge and how it compares to your ammo.

[lightman]

I've never had that problem with 45's but I have with 9mm's and 40 S&W's.

[mdi]

Put the "gauge" in the drawer and use the barrel of your gun as a gauge. I reloaded revolver ammo for quite a few years before I got a 1911 and having never thought about chambering, I though I had to have a case gauge. I fought my brass trying to get it to go into the gauge (Wilson) and was only successful 1 out of 4 or 5 cases. I tried different dies, RCBS, but that only cut down the "bad brass" to 1 in 7 or 8. I read about the plunk test and now 25 years later my case gauge still resides in a drawer somewhere and i get good ammo for my 3, 45 ACP guns with a simple plunk test...

[Walks]

When I was a kid in the early 1960's, we used to go out to Arizona to visit an old Shipmate of My Dad's.

He had an old Thompson M1 Submachine gun. We would bring out a couple thousand rounds of .45ACP loaded to max with 225gr RN from a H&G 8cav mold. Cast of Linotype.

When we got home, We'd lube & size every case in a Lyman steel size die on an old Comet press.

Then lube & size again on an old Lachmiller press in a
(don't remember) steel size die.

Didn't have T/C size dies for a couple more years. They sized a bit more then the old steel dies.

Now Lee has their push thru sizing system. Great for removing that Glock smile.

I bought the Redding die system for 40S&W before the Lee came out. Now I have the Lee for .45ACP & 9mm.
They all work great.

Try a Lee.

(BLASTED **** tablet)

[Walks]

Plus one on the plunk test. I do that in all auto loading handguns.
Ya just use the bbl with the tightest chamber.

[Rustynails]

Thanks to all: It is a bulge at the head of the case(s). I will plunk away, but first I will get a bulge buster to bust all those bulges.
Problem solved! Thanks

[Taterhead]

It is not common to need to resize more than once, and case dimensions should not drift after a few days.

Regarding the sizer settings, if using a progressive turn the die down so that the shell plate lifts the tool head completely so that all the slack is gone. Not quite cam over. For a SS, the die should just make contact with the shell holder. Instructions for carbide dies tend to say to go a partial way from contacting the shell holder/plate, but that doesn't get the sizer down low enough.

Kerplunk tests in barrels are useful, but a gauge I also useful to give information about whether rims are enlarged or nicked. I've done like jmorris indicate: Drop the case into the gauge backward. Small nicks can be smoothed by a little twist. For the straight wall rimless cartridges, a lot of Intel can be gleaned from dropping a case into a gauge backwards.

If it is a true bulge or smile, those cases should be tossed. They are not safe to reload even after pass through sizing.

http://10mm-firearms.com/reloading-1...n-of-a-smiley/

[ioon44]

"If it is a true bulge or smile, those cases should be tossed. They are not safe to reload even after pass through sizing."

I agree with this statement, good brass is plentiful no need to risk using over stressed brass.

[Dragonheart]

Sizing die brands do make a difference. Way back when I ran into a case that wouldn't chamber check after going through my sizing RCBS die I would simply throw the case in a box. Sometime later after purchasing my Dillon 450 press in the 1980's I purchased a set of 9mm Dillon dies. I started to notice that it seemed like I was having fewer cases that wouldn't chamber check. This prompted me to take my box of bulged reject cases and run them through the Dillon sizer. All the cases were not magical fixed, but a large number of them would now pass the chamber check. It appeared the Dillon sizer went just a tad further down on the case, enough to make a difference. Since then the Bulge Buster appeared on the market for straight wall cases and solves the bulge problem. I pick up range brass and my brass gets mixed in with the brass from other club members, so I run all my cases through the bulge buster. If it is sized, bulge busted and length checked then you should never have a chambering problem due to the case.

[mjwcaster]

While a case gauge can provide useful information my only one sits unused in a drawer also.
When I started reloading I bought a 45acp gauge.
One day I was reloading a new brand of cast bullets and didn’t have my pistol with me to plunk test.
The rounds passed the gauge fine so I reloaded a batch.
At the range one of the bullets jammed so hard into the rifling that it took me a few minutes to free up the slide (non existent leade in Xd45).

Those rounds passed the gauge but not the barrel.
Use what you want, just know that a case gauge does not tell the whole story.

Edit- and no I do not have to resize 45 brass multiple times, and I use range pick up brass shot in who knows what gun.
But be aware that all tools have different specs/tolerances and sometimes are even made outside of spec.
I have had dies that do not resize the case enough, both in 9mm and 380, a different die fixed the issue.



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[Dieselhorses]

YES, brass moves. Or at least mine did one evening after flaring necks for 50 45 ACP cases. Slugs fit fine that evening before seating, next day I had to flare again.

[JBinMN]

Some terms that some folks in this topic might want to research a bit, if they are not aware of them are:

"neck tension brass springback"

It would help knowing a bit more about those terms when reloading. Particularly if one is loading bottle neck rounds specifically, but they will apply to reloading any brass cases.

Some other terms worth looking into is:

"brass strain hardened" , and, "brass annealing", and, "brass work hardening"

{Leave out the quote marks in a search engine. I just put them in there to separate the sets of terms.}

I won't add anymore info, or suggestions than that. If folks want to know more in order to help themselves be educated on some of the aspects of reloading that many do not go in to, but would likely answer some questions for them, and perhaps make them think about such things when certain issues arise, doing a bit of research & reading will be to their advantage.

Just mentioning this for those who might not be aware of such things yet... Trying to help without pushing anything to anyone. just nudging a bit...

[mdi]

Any time there is a fit problem, measure. Measure the OD along the out case body in a few places. This will tell you if you really have a bulge. BTW a gauge is made on the small/minimum SAAMI cartridge dimensions, so unless your guns have "tight" match grade chambers, cases that don't "gauge" will work perfectly in your gun. I wouldn't use a bulge buster, as for thousands and thousands of rounds of 45 ACP loads, many from "once fired", mixed brass, and in 3 guns, I have never had the plunk test fail...

[fast ronnie]

I got tired of checking brass for my .40 S&W. Now I run every single piece through a Lee bulge buster. It's faster than measuring. The .40 seems to be particular about that. I also have one for the .45 ACP, but haven't needed to use it. I bought that one because I had a feeding issue which turned out to be a couple of worn parts.