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Thread: oil in powder measure

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master
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    oil in powder measure

    My friend is so funny.
    His RCBS powder measure was getting sticky.
    So what does he do????
    He sprays some oil on the drum.
    Calls me up to find out how to take it apart.
    I didn't mean to laugh at him.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    Hahaha...that is kinda funny. Grease would have been a much better option.

    redhawk

    The only stupid question...is the unasked one.
    Not all who wander....are lost.
    "Common Sense" is like a flower. It doesn't grow in everyone's garden.

    If more government is the answer, then it was a really stupid question. - Ronald Reagan

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    I thought about that once and decided to just take it apart, cleaned up real good, been working really good. Lost snub nut to hold adj screw, made one out of a piece of teflon gaskets material, holds where I put it. No oil or anything, just clean metal fit.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
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    Once you clean all the oil out of it, buy some fine powdered graphite and run through it.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master


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    Graphite or Hornady One Shot and allow it to dry.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master


    Walks's Avatar
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    Let He who is without STUPID cast the first stone.

    Last dumb thing I did was try to check a "dummy" cartridge in the wrong caliber rifle.

    Got a Uberti 66 Carbine with a brass topped front sight in .45Colt.
    Got a Uberti 73 Carbine with a brass topped front sight in .44-40.

    Pulled the '66 out of the safe to check OAL & feeding of a "new" bullet.

    Looked short enough laid atop the raised elevator. Slid the round into the feed gate. Worked the lever,
    JAM !!!!

    TURN ON THE LIGHT OVER THE SAFE !!!!!!!!!

    ESPECIALLY IF THE SAFE LIGHT IS BURNT OUT !!!!!!!!

    Had to COMPLETELY takedown the 73' to take out that
    .45Colt

    STUPID will BLINDSIDE at the most inopportune moment.

    And it does happen to ALL/ANY of US at one time or another.
    I HATE auto-correct

    Happiness is a Warm GUN & more ammo to shoot in it.

    My Experience and My Opinion, are just that, Mine.

    SASS #375 Life

  7. #7
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    My Hornady measure had a little drag as the drum rotated.
    I took it apart and used car wax on it. Wax on, wax off, it worked for me.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master bedbugbilly's Avatar
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    Live and learn - as my Dad always said.

    My Dad would have used vaseline - you know - it's good for everything - door hinges that squeak, garage door track lube - you name it and he would have figured out how to use the vaseline somehow! LOL

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I use Molebnium Disulfide for powder measures. If the cast iron body looks "coarse" or grainy then I give it a coat of wax with moly mixed in it to help fill the voids or grains. Any dry lube will work. Moly, Gtaphite, silicone, micas and wax have all been used with good results. Oils greases and "wet" lubes can cause sticking and bridging, and might deaden powder charges

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I've used wax and I have also used silicon spray. I had one ( not saying brand ) that was so rough that I polished the inside of the frame with a small engine cylinder hone. Worked great after that! Oil??? Don't know about that!

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
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    Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant has micro Teflon particles in an alcohol propellant....the alcohol evaporates quickly leaving the thin dry film of micro Teflon as the lubricant , it doesn't contaminate the powder .
    I find it works just as well if not better than graphite . Used on Lyman 55 for years .

    I spray my cooled moulds with it before putting them away. To date no rust.
    It doesn't contaminate the cavities and doesn't have to be removed the next casting session...just heat and cast.
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Liquid Wrench Dry Lube is great stuff.
    I use it all over the place.
    Funny, but I've never thought of using it on reloading/casting tools.
    I'll have to give it a try.
    I've done so many stupid things in the past, it's a wonder I'm still around.
    Most of the time, I realize it was stupid, as soon as I've done it.
    That's what happens when I rush, or I'm just no paying attention.

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master

    mold maker's Avatar
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    It seems things aren't stupid, till after you've done them.
    Information not shared. is wasted.

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Just pull the end of the mag tube out and shake it and mostly they come out...but I NEVER did it myself????

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    My best ones are usually when then phone rings in the shop. If I have a part in my hand, more often than not, I have to go looking for it. Even worse, is thinking the wrong dimension when going back to the machine. That one usually ends up by getting a new piece of material.

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master

    mold maker's Avatar
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    Brings to mind, The hurrier i go, the behinder I get.
    Information not shared. is wasted.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check