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Thread: Action bedding?

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
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    Action bedding?

    Hey guys, im sitting here bedding an action. Im waiting for my jb weld to setup a bit before i put it in the stock. Ive used various bedding compounds and jb weld for quite a few stock and action combos. Most every compound ive used just seem so runny until they start to setup. Its got,me in trouble once running a bit too far. Ive done it in a couple thin coats before too. All seem to work fine. Curious as to what you guys think is best. Is there a bedding compound that is easy to use and not too runny? Has anybody tried that quick steel putty? Probably have to be really slow and gentle fighting the action. With a heavy putty. Id think it would be super easy to work with though. Anymore I go cheap. Jb weld and one shot case lube for release agent. Just curious what you guys have tried. What worked and what didn't.

    Adam

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I normally use Bisonite steel bed for rifles. its fairly thick and easy to work with. Mixing is different as its 10-1 ratio. There is a thickening powder for it if desired. Champions Choice in Laverge Tennessee sold it when I bought my last tub. Youd have to buy some and test it with your bedding compound to see if it works. I plug all the holes and cuts with clay before coating with release agent so the bedding cant run into them. I also chill the bedding materials to help increase working times for them.
    A thick putty may push into these areas more since it wont "flow" as easily. And getting an even stress free coat will be harder.

  3. #3
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    There was a product called micro bed that was in tubes like JB Weld. It was very easy to use and it was a brown color. I have no idea if it is still on the market.

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  4. #4
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    Devcon steel putty is my preferred bedding compound.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master


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    Marine Tex, local boat supply store should have it or order it from Brownells!

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    Plus two for marine tax we use it all the time

  7. #7
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    I have used JB for small jobs and pillar bedding too. But I like Accraglass or if nothing else Devcon puddy. Most other suuff is just too loose or runny.

    CW
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    There was a product called micro bed that was in tubes like JB Weld. It was very easy to use and it was a brown color. I have no idea if it is still on the market.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
    Micro Bed was great stuff -- I used it a lot in years past. Still have a couple of tubes I purchased against future need. Don't know it it's still good. I believe the company that made it was bought out by Brownell's which sold it for several years and then discontinued it. Probably because it was competition with Accra Glas.

    There is the answer to your question, Sir. AccraGlas Gel is a superb agent for bedding stocks. It is not runny until you tighten the
    action screws, at which time some will ooze out from around the receiver and locking lug area, around the magazine box/floor plate also if that is being bedded. Just scrape it of with something like a putty knife and let it set up. In my experience, and I've done many bedding jobs, the best release agent is a carnauba wax like Trewax. What's so good about it is that not only can you coat everything that is likely to come in contact with the AccraGlas (best to coat it twice) but you can also fill cracks and voids like using modeling clay, which some folks also use. Be sure to coat the action screws. When it's dry (I wait 24 hours) you can remove the screws, turn the rifle upside down, and give the bottom of the barrel a couple of whacks with a rubber mallet. It will come right out.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy

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    Bondo-glass. Bondo with fiberglass in it, found at auto parts stores, in a can. Not too runny, works very well. I mask off stock with masking tape. Use any paste wax as a release agent, such as carnuba or auto paste wax.

  10. #10
    Boolit Bub
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    I appreciate the info guys. I will have to check them out. I suppose I could get something in a can as I have 5 or 6 actions to do. But usually when i buy a bigger container it goes bad before I use it all. I will check out accraglass gel too. My last action I used regular accraglass and it was way runny. Thats why this one I went back to trusty jb weld. I usually use Chapstick for holes and threads of action screws. I like the caranuba wax idea though. I see marine tex used by alot of people. Ive never ventured with it though. Is it a heavier epoxy thats not runny? I will check and see what I can find to try on the next action. I appreciate the info.

    Adam

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    "Bedding compound" is nothing more nor less than epoxy. Of course, two part epoxy is runny, and it's not meant to be used straight without mixing in a thickener. The easiest substance to use is colloidal silica, the white fluffy stuff that is included in the acraglass kits that most people erroneously call "fiberglass".

    Any old epoxy will work. Seriously. I've used a bunch of different brands and they have all performed admirably. An industry rep told me one time that all epoxy resins come out of the same tap, figuratively speaking. The difference between brands lies mainly in their hardeners.

    Many guys think that epoxy bedding serves to strengthen a stock. That is a minor side benefit. Its main purpose is to provide a tight fit between the action/barrel and its stock so things don't judder around. To that end it really doesn't require high priced specialty "stock bedding compounds".

  12. #12
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by oconeedan View Post
    Bondo-glass. Bondo with fiberglass in it, found at auto parts stores, in a can. Not too runny, works very well. I mask off stock with masking tape. Use any paste wax as a release agent, such as carnuba or auto paste wax.
    bondo has way too high of a shrinkage rate.

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master

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    The army finished some M14 national match stocks with an epoxy. It was a very involved process designed to push as much epoxy as far as possible into the wood stock. It involved a "soak time" in a vacuum pot at elevated temps of 180* or so. This pulled moisture out of the wood. then into a pressure pot with the epoxy and pressurized and soaked for a set time. Stocks were then hung to dry and finish sanded to smooth. When completely cured stocks were routed for bedding and bedded to a barreled action. This process drove the epoxy into the wood close to 1/4". Stocks picked up about 3 ** in weight were pretty much moisture stable and much stiffer than other finishes. In the action area it was almost 100% thru the wood. As was the front lip. Made a very stiff stable stock for the AMU. When bedded in tight these rifle shot exceptionally well. Was probably the start of the heavy fiberglass stocks for the M14/M1A.
    Bedding just laid into the stock will tighten the fit. A simple routing of 1/8" X3/16" deep channels in the right areas does stiffen and strengthen the stock. I cut the grooves and make sure I get 100% fill when bedding. I remove wood from behind recoil lug and a small groove on each edge back. with pillars I cut a shallow thread their length and rings in the stocks holes to provide a mechanical lock and a solid bonding. In rifle to be used in inclement weather I may fish barrel channel by removing some wood and using a closely dyed matching epoxy, refloating barrel after its cured. Even here I may route 3 small channels 1/8" X 1/8" the length of the forearm for mechanical lock and added stiffening.
    There are army manuals for the M14/M1a and Garand that show the bedding job and where these cuts need to be to support and stiffen the bedding along with the fixtures needed.

  14. #14
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    For a guy that only beds a stock here and there JB weld is the ticket you get more then you need to bed a action and there is not that much waste. The slow or runny time helps the guys that are not on a pro level. I work in the stock good taking my time so I guess it is setting up so I do not have a big runny problem. Sure it pushes out but it should Q tips and WD 40 cleans it up good then I tape it down and let it sit. I use shoe polish or JPW for my release agent. I dont think you can get much cheaper I have used some marine grade on a plastic stock to fill the voids to make it stiff. I do a lot of prep on the action I really like the plumper puddy easy to work with and its also cheap its sticky and holds well. Only draw back I found was on my dam I used the wrapper of a pack of smokes when setting the action to fine tune it no sticking on the final drop in I do not use the wrapper.
    Reloading to save money I am sure the saving is going to start soon

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    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
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  16. #16
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    Marine Tex. The white version is supposed to NOT have as much strength as the grey, but it works just as well. Some guns have weight restrictions, so bedding compound can come into play. Those steel infused epoxy's are good, but weight....

    I found a product called Fiber Glast. It is a two part epoxy, but light in weight. It takes a good 24 hours to get to full strength, but so far it has done well as bedding.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master


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    Lots of good info in this thread, thanks to all Contributors!!
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check