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Thread: Savage 219

  1. #21
    Boolit Master brewer12345's Avatar
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    I appreciate the thought, but I need another 12 gauge like a hole in the head. Will watch for a rifle barrel or maybe a 410.
    When you care enough to send the very best, send an ounce of lead.

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cwlongshot View Post

    I pretty sure I have a 12G 220 barrel that will fit your frame!

    CW

    I've posted this info here, before, but will repeat: Take care when purchasing a barrel that wasn't issued with the frame.

    There are different versions/variations, and all barrels are NOT interchangeable.

    There are Model 219;s, 219B's 219C's & 219L's. The Model 220 has a similar, but non-identical progression of improved models.

    The earliest 219's & 220's were striker-fired, and were re-cocked by the opening action of the top lever, which incidentally released the barrel lock so the barrel could be swung open, and the shell ejector tripped off.

    Any early or later 219/219B/219C/219L/220 rifle or shotgun barrel will fit and operate just fine in the early 219/220 guns.

    Then, Savage changed the internal design, from a striker to a concealed hammer - which the operation of the top lever no longer was able to recock.



    Soooo, on all subsequent models, there is a cocking lever inside the front of the action body, which lies alongside the barrel's locking lug when the gun is closed, or in the firing position.

    The cocking lever/arm is raised, re-cocking the gun, only when the barrel is swung open (not by the top lever opening) - by a spring-loaded stud located in the side of the later model's barrel's locking lug(s).

    These guns are the 219B/219C/219L, and later 220's.

    These later guns ergo require also a later barrel, WITH the cocking lug - which is absent on earlier barrels.

    The early, no-cocking lug barrels will not re-cock the later guns - burdensome, to say the least.

    The easiest way to check YOUR gun, is to remove the barrel and peek inside the right side action wall, to see if it has a cocking lever there.

    If it has one, the gun needs a barrel with a cocking stud.
    If it has none, the gun can use any barrel.

    Within the barrel interchange limits, defined above, any 219 or 220 in good/serviceable condition is safe with any other 219 or 220 barrel in good/serviceable condition.

    .
    Now I lay me down to sleep
    A gun beside me is what I keep
    If I awake, and you're inside
    The coroner's van is your next ride

  3. #23
    Boolit Master


    cwlongshot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brewer12345 View Post
    I appreciate the thought, but I need another 12 gauge like a hole in the head. Will watch for a rifle barrel or maybe a 410.
    Mine is a 30-30 but I have a 410 and short 12G too, cause the barrel was so rusty rotten.

    CW
    NRA Life member • REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.
    Come visit my RUMBLE & uTube page's !!

    https://www.RUMBLE.com/user/Cwlongshot
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  4. #24
    Boolit Master brewer12345's Avatar
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    Thanks, pietro. Mine is an early one from pre War, so I should be able to use any barrel by the sounds of it.
    When you care enough to send the very best, send an ounce of lead.

  5. #25
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    Like he said, just look for that barrel stud on the lug. My little 20 gauge 220 has that stud, bought it hoping barrels would work on it, but not to be, which is OK because it's a neat little shotgun and was cheap.

    The one I got that had a ruined barrel I found a replacement .30-30 barrel on Ebay and slapped it right on and it works great. Not sure it would work with all guns within action types, but it did in this case.

  6. #26
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    The side mount came in the mail the other day, had to work yesterday, but got it set up today with a beat up old Weaver K4 with very fine cross hairs. Then I loaded up 25 rounds of Ranchdog 165s and 20 grains of 5744, I was aiming for about 1800 FPS.

    Once I got it zeroed, the five shot group I shot for record went into about 2 1/4", not great, but considering first time with some real loads and the fact that it was freezing while I was trying to shoot, I'll take it. No leading with that load after 25 rounds, plenty accurate enough for my kind of woods hunting and I suspect it'll get better.

    It still has that nagging soft primer strikes and occasional misfires, but it seemed to get better as it went along, leading me to believe a good soaking of the action will take care of it. All in all, I'm please with it and I'll tweak what I'm doing with it and shoot it more when the weather gets better.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check