powder coating vs. paper patching

[rockydoc]

I have never paper patched. I have done very little powder coating with disappointing results. I am sure I didn't do it right.

I consider either PC or PP to be more trouble than tumble lubing but there seems to be more promise for getting jacketed velocities and accuracy with PC or PP. Have any of you done both PC and PP? Which gives the best results in velocity with accuracy?

It also seem to be that you can use a softer alloy with either of these alternatives to naked lubed boolits.

[bmortell]

I only have a few years experience on both, but now in rifles I only do those 2 and order molds a hair skinny now for pc or paper. in 10 twist 30 cals I can get 2 moa with either up to 2k fps from my fairly newbie experience on em. in the beginning of my casting I got good results in revolvers right off the bat, lubed, pc whatever, all worked pretty well for me. rifles were hard, got some massive groups and didn't get anything usable till PC or PP don't know how much of a coincidence that was but it probably makes it easier.


not sure one is really better than the other accuracy wise beyond a gun to gun basis. PP might be able to get same results with softer lead, an advantage sometimes. if ones not inherently more accurate, PC loaded rounds are nice because they wont get dust stuck to em, no exposed lead ect. PP is basically the best way to get softest lead at the highest speed but don't have the benefits mentioned for pc.

[popper]

PP is primarily for bolt guns, no SA or lever. Basic feed problem. Try it once for giggles and grins.

[rockydoc]

Bmortell and Popper, Thanks for your replies. I intend to load hunting rounds for a 7X57 Mauser in a Winchester M70 using a Lee C285 130RF soup can boolit. Since it is for hunting I would like a softer boolit, so PP sounds better. The boolit mentioned has a long bearing area with a gas check base, so that would tend to be suitable for PP also. And obviously also the M70 is a bolt gun.

So, as suggested I shall give it a try.

[bmortell]

your welcome, ya just read the paper patch stickys if you haven't good stuff there, and I can try and add some tips from my experience.

I researched paper for a while and couldn't find the ones they were mentioning in cheap smaller volume but I also read another and tried it, its called Alvin lightweight tracing paper its on amazon 10$ for 50yds roll works good for me and will last forever just make the grain going sideways.

and how they say have another sizer to make the core 1-2 thou over "bore" size before patching. ya ive never done that. atleast with designs that just have a few small bands at groove size I just size em through my normal die after patching with some liquid alox on the paper.

for charges maybe try sr4759 and whatever is slow for that caliber. if your goin for jacketed velocity right off the bat your probably making it hard on yourself. I go for around 2k. for me a 2k worth of slow powder with .5gr polyester stuffing on top gives me 1.75 MOA and consistent velocity. sure others get a bit better but if im getting soft lead at 2000 with a 10 twist I feel like im winning lol.

soft lead maybe 1 to 1.5% antimony and equal parts tin should give large expansion and be malleable at deer distance with those speeds. or maybe same hardness from just lead/tin, I feel the tin part is important for malleability since were talking soft with large expansion to avoid fragmenting. in my testing 1.5/1.5 seems good but I got to wait a while till deer season to try for real.

[edwin41]

hello ,

i dont think one needs a very high speed with a paperpatched bullet.
i dont hunt but i am convinced that my 6,5x55 mm paperpatched 140 grainer loaded with 20 gr of AA5744 powder would be devastating
at the normal hunting distances.
i cast them real soft , a alloy mix of 20 to 1 lead-tin , and tested this load on wooden blocks.
also , i dont size them no more before patching , i patch them full boresize and size them full boresize AFTER patching.

as i said ....DEVASTATING !

[rockydoc]

I have done "pound casting" of my throat and the first ½ inch of the barrel on all of my cast boolit guns, but I don't know how to measure the "bore" of the gun from that. I can measure the "lands" easily enough with my micrometer, but I don't know how to get it down into bottom of the grooves of the casting which is where the bore diameter is.

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

I have tried Paper patching in .357 lever action and a .35 Whelen. Results were kinda there but always a flier.

I have shot PC .357s from a lever action up to 2100 fps with no leading. 2200 fps leaded. This was with 125 grain Lee RNFPs cast from wheel weights. When I powder coat I bake 'em at 400° then shut off the oven so they are as soft as wheel weigh alloy can be.

[barrabruce]

All I need is a pair of scissors and a of tin lid for a patch template.
Obviously some paper and I size before I wrap.
My sizer is a homemade whacked type Lee one. I also have a Lee one for groove plus one wackem original.

I haven’t tried powder coated but tried spray can paint and still needed a gas check to make them work with only so -so results.

I would try powder coated bullets but the bought ones are always to small for my gun and they don’t look all thar flash in the casting department.

I’m not convinced enough to lash out with ovens and things to find out.
For me pp is simpler and I do runs while watching t.v. And not a high volume shooter.

[pmer]

I've done more PC than PP. I've PP .452 boolits for 45-70 and 458 socom mostly just to see how it went and seemed like a good usable way to go.

The last PC I've done was gas checked 35 cal for a 358 win. It gave me good predictable accuracy with 40 grains of 3031 and the bore was in great shape. I think I could run them faster if needed.

I sized and checked (no lube), tumble powder coated (with plastic BBs), baked them on there sides and sized them a last time.

I used nonstick foil and baked at 405 degrees for 14 minutes. The powder needs 10 minutes once it's glossy and starts to flow. The temp is important and you might need a thermometer and some powders won't tumble coat. To me its one of things that after you do it a couple times it is pretty easy to do.

Things that could mess this up is lube in your size die, wrong temp/ time, checks coming off during the shake and poor coverage of powder which you can see before you bake. And using the incorrect foil because powder will stick to plain foil.

[Chainsaw.]

What happened that gave you poor results with powder coating? Did you shake n bake with beads/BBs and good powder?