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Thread: Help Identifying Molds

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    47

    Help Identifying Molds

    First thanks for allowing me to join. Bought some molds and can't find info on them in the various mfg. manuals. Lyman #50229, Lyman #633, Lyman #628. Lee #90399, Lee #90281, Lee #40369, Lee #102. I appreciate any assistance. I am new at this, and can't to seem to find any lists with these molds. I know I could cast then weigh them, but would still be nice to have a source of reference for each mfg. Thanks

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    NoZombies's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    N. Florida
    Posts
    2,493
    Quote Originally Posted by Watcher View Post
    First thanks for allowing me to join. Bought some molds and can't find info on them in the various mfg. manuals. Lyman #50229, Lyman #633, Lyman #628. Lee #90399, Lee #90281, Lee #40369, Lee #102. I appreciate any assistance. I am new at this, and can't to seem to find any lists with these molds. I know I could cast then weigh them, but would still be nice to have a source of reference for each mfg. Thanks
    Lyman 50299 Not sure, could you have missed a number?
    Lyman 633 and 628. Either RB molds in those diameters, or those are the assembly numbers (stamped on both block halves) and not the mold numbers
    Lee 90399 is the 54 Caliber REAL muzzle loading mold
    Lee 90281 is their 1 oz slug mold
    Lee 40369 (probably a 90369 which is a 180 grain 309 rifle mold)
    Lee 102 is probably their 9mm 102 grain bullet mold (mostly made for 380's and such)
    Nozombies.com Practical Zombie Survival

    Collecting .32 molds. Please let me know if you have one you don't need, cause I might "need" it!

  3. #3
    Banned
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    3,409
    Watcher, WElcome to cast boolits many questions can be answere by typing them into the search bar in the upper right

    Lee molds http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-of-Lee-Moulds
    Lyman Mold Chart http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...falo-Bullet-Co

    If you decided to start casting to save money, forget it. You won't, you'll just shoot more.
    Casting boolits (lead bullets) properly is a science, once you know the basics, not a hard science.
    There is a lot of good information on CB. The Google search (top right of every forum page) is a gateway to all the knowledge on this forum. IF you can’t find your answer there ask the question (Please be as detailed as possible, pictures help. I would be very surprised if there wasn’t someone on this forum that could answer ANY (firearm related) question you might have)
    http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm
    1. Boolits need to be cast .0005 to .003 (normally .002) over the slugged diameter of your barrel for accuracy and to avoid leading. If the fit is wrong nothing else will work right.
    a. slugging a barrel (it is safer to use a brass rod or a steel rod with a couple of coats of tape to avoid damaging your barrel http://7.62x54r.net/MosinID/MosinSlug.htm
    b. chamber casting https://www.brownells.com/guntech/ce....htm?lid=10614
    or pound casting http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...rifle-chamber)
    2. the right alloy needs to be used for the velocity and purpose of the boolit (don’t fall into the trap of going with too hard an alloy

    Some alloys harden over time
    http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chap...Metallurgy.htm

    Lead alloy calculator
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/atta...4&d=1341560870
    3. velocity the bullet needs to be pushed hard/fast enough to get the proper spin, have the proper velocity to accurately reach the target but not so hard as to be dangerous or strip the lead off in the grooves instead of spinning the boolit..
    The boolit needs to be the right weight for the riffling/twist rate of your barrel
    Powders range from fast to slow, you need to choose the right powder for your barrel length & application.
    Loading manuals list the best powders for certain calibers and boolit weights.
    NEVER use any posted noncommercial load data without first checking commercial load data to see if falls in the safe parameter for your firearm!! There are several firearms out there that can handle much higher pressures than others!!
    Link to free online load data
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...online-sources

    Optimum seating depth (still feeds and seats with the best accuracy) will vary with every gun
    I read somewhere that you can hold the boolit in the chamber so it's touching the rifling. slide the biggest rod down the barrel and mark where the end of the barrel is. If there is a big gap between the barrel and the rod, you can use a washer the fits snug around the rod to help with marking.
    remove the boolit then chamber an empty piece of brass, use the same rod and measure it again. Do the math, this is your max depth. Back it off a couple thou.
    now you have to worry about feeding.

  4. #4
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    47
    Quote Originally Posted by NoZombies View Post
    Lyman 50299 Not sure, could you have missed a number?
    Lyman 633 and 628. Either RB molds in those diameters, or those are the assembly numbers (stamped on both block halves) and not the mold numbers
    Lee 90399 is the 54 Caliber REAL muzzle loading mold
    Lee 90281 is their 1 oz slug mold
    Lee 40369 (probably a 90369 which is a 180 grain 309 rifle mold)
    Lee 102 is probably their 9mm 102 grain bullet mold (mostly made for 380's and such)
    First thanks for replying, I will recheck those numbers, did not have my magnifying glass handy.

  5. #5
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    47
    Quote Originally Posted by Conditor22 View Post
    Watcher, WElcome to cast boolits many questions can be answere by typing them into the search bar in the upper right

    Lee molds http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-of-Lee-Moulds
    Lyman Mold Chart http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...falo-Bullet-Co

    If you decided to start casting to save money, forget it. You won't, you'll just shoot more.
    Casting boolits (lead bullets) properly is a science, once you know the basics, not a hard science.
    There is a lot of good information on CB. The Google search (top right of every forum page) is a gateway to all the knowledge on this forum. IF you can’t find your answer there ask the question (Please be as detailed as possible, pictures help. I would be very surprised if there wasn’t someone on this forum that could answer ANY (firearm related) question you might have)
    http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm
    1. Boolits need to be cast .0005 to .003 (normally .002) over the slugged diameter of your barrel for accuracy and to avoid leading. If the fit is wrong nothing else will work right.
    a. slugging a barrel (it is safer to use a brass rod or a steel rod with a couple of coats of tape to avoid damaging your barrel http://7.62x54r.net/MosinID/MosinSlug.htm
    b. chamber casting https://www.brownells.com/guntech/ce....htm?lid=10614
    or pound casting http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...rifle-chamber)
    2. the right alloy needs to be used for the velocity and purpose of the boolit (don’t fall into the trap of going with too hard an alloy

    Some alloys harden over time
    http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chap...Metallurgy.htm

    Lead alloy calculator
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/atta...4&d=1341560870
    3. velocity the bullet needs to be pushed hard/fast enough to get the proper spin, have the proper velocity to accurately reach the target but not so hard as to be dangerous or strip the lead off in the grooves instead of spinning the boolit..
    The boolit needs to be the right weight for the riffling/twist rate of your barrel
    Powders range from fast to slow, you need to choose the right powder for your barrel length & application.
    Loading manuals list the best powders for certain calibers and boolit weights.
    NEVER use any posted noncommercial load data without first checking commercial load data to see if falls in the safe parameter for your firearm!! There are several firearms out there that can handle much higher pressures than others!!
    Link to free online load data
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...online-sources

    Optimum seating depth (still feeds and seats with the best accuracy) will vary with every gun
    I read somewhere that you can hold the boolit in the chamber so it's touching the rifling. slide the biggest rod down the barrel and mark where the end of the barrel is. If there is a big gap between the barrel and the rod, you can use a washer the fits snug around the rod to help with marking.
    remove the boolit then chamber an empty piece of brass, use the same rod and measure it again. Do the math, this is your max depth. Back it off a couple thou.
    now you have to worry about feeding.
    Thank you kindly. A lot of good info there, and I will take your advice. And I will have new questions. All the best

  6. #6
    Banned
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    3,409
    If you can't find the answer to something ask. I'd be surprised if someone on CB didn't have the answer.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Northwest corner of Vermont
    Posts
    1,010
    Try looking for the "Ol Buffalo" mold information. It pretty much has listings for all the Lyman & Ideal molds.

    http://www.three-peaks.net/bullet_molds.htm
    Literacy should not be considered optional in computer based communication.

  8. #8
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    47
    Thanks to all those who replied, I appreciate your time.

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
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