needing a new powder dispencer

[usmc0811]

I have been using this LEE PRECISION Pro Auto Disk dispenser with the Lee Adjustable Charge Bar<img src="https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41-h1HRElZL.jpg" alt="LEE PRECISION Pro Auto Disk"/> for awhile now and would like to change it up for something better. When I use this current setup it wont throw charges consistently. I find myself having to check the charges often to make sure they are not low which I have found them to be on several occasions. It might just be that I am dropping such a small charge as 2.9gr or possibly the powder type like titegroup. Either way I want a dispenser that will drop consistently with whichever powder or charge weight I chose and not have to stop every few rounds to check.
Any suggestions as to what I could get to fix this issue?

[oldhenry]

The RCBS "Little Dandy" is excellent for small charge accuracy , but they're kind of pricy...…..the rotors are also. However, if you get one you'll be glad you paid the price.

I don't use mine any more since getting the Dillons, but......I'm keeping the "Little Dandy". It great for trying new loads.


Henry

[swamp]

I use the Auto-Disk and tried the adjustable slide. I found that low charges were inconsistent. Titan Reloading sells a small charge disk for it that works great for small charges.
swamp

[str8wal]

Lyman 55. Mine drops small charges of Titegroup like a dream using the smallest slide.

[kungfustyle]

+1 for the lyman 55 watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6CAg2VEeKc
Most valuable point is placing a funnel into the hopper and pouring powder into funnel to about 1/2 full. Tap 2x up and 2x down and you have the most accurate powder measure out there: pistols to rifles. Just my 2cents. I've owned RCBS, Hornady, Lee auto disk and Lee perfect. All sold and now I have an RCBS Chargemaster lite and a Lyman 55. If you are going progressive go dillon and don't look back. IT WORKS!

[Lloyd Smale]

I like the Hornady. It has removable inserts that adjust charge weights and you can buy extras and keep them set for specific loads or if you want use them just like an rcbs. If that doesn't interest you then id go with an rcbs. Ive got an rcbs and had a lyman too and occasionaly use the rcbs but the lyman was given away to a buddy because I just didn't like it. Little dandys work great too. I had one and all the inserts and used to use it a lot before it burned in the fire. Problem is your stuck with having to buy inserts and in the long run it will cost you more then an adjustable one will.

[red67]

Depending on how much you are looking to spend, I'm very satisfied with the Lee Auto Drum measure. It seems to be head and shoulders above the Auto Disk measures.

In addition, are you using this on a Lee turret? If you are, you'll want to look for a measure that is lightweight, i.e. Not cast iron like the Hornady or RCBS or Lyman.

[OS OK]

The RCBS "Little Dandy" is excellent for small charge accuracy , but they're kind of pricy...…..the rotors are also. However, if you get one you'll be glad you paid the price.

I don't use mine any more since getting the Dillons, but......I'm keeping the "Little Dandy". It great for trying new loads.


Henry

Very handy indeed with small charges...RCBS Little Dandy...sometimes the answer is very simple.



I like the adjustments on the Lyman 55 and it'll handle certain powders better than the Dandy
...I use both of them.

[Shawlerbrook]

Yes, Lyman 55 for small charges and you can get used ones fairly reasonable.

[onelight]

I use the Auto-Disk and tried the adjustable slide. I found that low charges were inconsistent. Titan Reloading sells a small charge disk for it that works great for small charges.
swamp

Yup it works for me , the pro disc also seems to be really consistent on my Lee classic turret.
I think the rotation of the the turret makes it the most consistent I have used , if it throws a charge that works for the load. I have Lee , Lyman and RCBS

[usmc0811]

Depending on how much you are looking to spend, I'm very satisfied with the Lee Auto Drum measure. It seems to be head and shoulders above the Auto Disk measures.

In addition, are you using this on a Lee turret? If you are, you'll want to look for a measure that is lightweight, i.e. Not cast iron like the Hornady or RCBS or Lyman.

yes it will be used on a Lee turret press. Thanks for the information.

[Big Wes]

I use a couple of Harrell's Powder Measures one for rifle one for pistol I'm very satisfied with them http://harrellsprec.com/index.php

[725]

RCBS Chargemaster. Pricey but wonderful.

[country gent]

I use the Harrels also for smokeless powders, I have the standard size measure and the smaller Schutzan sized measure, they are very good and accurate the click adjustments make them very repeatable as to setting also. I also use the RCBS little dandy, a lyman 55 BP, a couple Belding and Mulls, A RCBS uniflow, redding BR30, along with some older measures. Also don't discount powder dippers.
Some things I have learned using different measures and throwing charges are:
1) regardless of the maker consistency of operation is important to good results. The measure needs to be operated the same each time. This takes practice and time learning. A Good way to start out is to set the measure to throw a charge mid point of its range and throw and weigh powder charges weighing each one, Keep notes of this thru a hopper in 10 charge groups and notes of where the hopper level is. This gets you practice throwing accurate charges and shows variations do to hopper volume, operation, and such. Run a hopper thru from start to finish. You will see charges get lighter as hopper empties.
2) AS mentioned find the "Sweet Spot" on the hopper level where the measure throws best. This may vary with different powders. A baffle added to the hopper can help smooth this variation out as it keeps the varying weight of the hopper from affecting chamber fill. With the baffle done and set right the load pressure stays the same until powder drops below baffle level. I prefer a inverted v baffle with small openings at the edges, usually a 3/8" to 1/2" half opening on each side is plenty on a universal measure, for pistol loads only 3/16" - 1/4" size may be better. The baffle does a couple things, 1) it separates the main hopper from the charge hopper reducing pressure variances. 2) it tends to act as a venturi aligning grains in a uniform manner and filling the charge chamber from the same angle and area each time.
3) if possible find a measure that your charges fall in the mid range of its operating range. most measures arnt quite as accurate at either end if their range as they are in the mid range of operation. Some are better than others at the upper and lower ends.
4) Some powders will work better with a concave bottom in the chamber some may do better with a flat chamber, here experimentation tells the tale. I like the concave ends since there are no sharp corners to fill into. I have Measure tubes made for the Belding and Mulls with both concave and flat ends, Even made one with convex end. For the most part the concave are the most accurate but they limit the lower end to what the concave holds The flat end ones are close to the concave. The convex one was terrible as to consistency and was machined down and converted to a convex end.

If all you want to throw are light pistol charges pick up one of the rotary measures and sleeve the drum chamber down to 3/8" dia this will require a new adjuster rod to be made and threads to be sleeved down also. The smaller dia chamber will give you these advantages. Adjustments will be finer and easier per .1 grn do to the smaller volume and finer thread on the smaller adjuster. The concave face will hold less powder if you go that route. And last the smaller dia will help to spread out hopper pressures. This makes a specialty measure that is tailored to your needs. On a rcbs uniflow the small drum is roughly 0-60 grns with the 1/2" chamber. Sleeving down to 3/8" takes it to roughly 0-35 grns. The RCBS is a nice candidate for this since a drum can be purchased and modified adding a 3rd drum to it, leaving it original with the drums that came with it.

All that's needed to convert a drum as above in tools is a drill press and vise, fine flat files, sand paper in various grits, epoxy glue. Materials a piece of 1/2" od X3/8" Id brass tubing 2" long, a 5/16 24 screw, Or 3/8 24 bolt.

Pm me if you want me to walk you thru the process pm me

[worker]

Small charges (eg less than 4gr of Unique) will be a problem in Lee autodisk (and in other measures too)
A solution is to add buffle. CHeck titan reloading for that too.

I use the Auto-Disk and tried the adjustable slide. I found that low charges were inconsistent. Titan Reloading sells a small charge disk for it that works great for small charges.
swamp

[Conditor22]

baffle template.zip

IF you tap on the powder measure every time the charge will be more consistent also,
If you put a baffle in your powder measure you will even the pressure of the powder so charges will remain more consistent.

[44magLeo]

In my Lyman 55's I found an old pill bottle that is a snug slip fit in the hopper tube. The hopper tube changed inside diameter somewhere along the production. So if you have more than one they may not use the same size bottle.
I cut the bottle up about an inch from the bottom. I then drill two 1/4 inch holes, one on each side. Then drop it open end down into the hopper.
I try it with the powers I use. If the powder seems to not keep up with the rate I charge cases I can open the holes up to the next larger drill bit. Adjust as needed.
This should work with most any hopper.
I tried making then from thin sheet metal. Got plans online. They were not hard to make but they tend to split at the crease.
You can make several different length baffles by just cutting bottles to more or less than the inch. What ever feels right for you.
This has made my measures very consistent. They didn't vary much from full to empty hopper, but now they throw the same top to bottom.
The only thing I might want to change on my 55's is the calibration markings. The ones on there are ok just meaningless. I think if the main slide was calibrated in full cc's, the middle slide in .10 cc's and the top slide in .01 cc's would make initial set up easier.
Leo

[country gent]

I make baffles from old plastic pop bottles or aluminum flashing. Its not hard to do and requires few tools. a vee type is simple to make.
Cut a pop bottles center section out square and clamp between 2 pieces of flat wood for a couple days, this helps take the set and memory out allowing It to lay flat
I tape it to a board when starting to help hold it.
Cover with masking tape this allows a pencil to mark in it and be seen
Measure inside of hopper and divide by 2 write this number down in the corner of the tape covered plastic
with a steel ruler make a centerline off the edge enough to make baffle
Mark the first center point you number plus 3/8" from edge on center line this allows for the edge to be trimmed and cut easily
from this point move over 1/2" - 5/8" and mark a second point
Set a compass / dividers to your number and mark to circles from the center points
With the ruler / straight edge connect the outer edges of the circles, you now have an oval drawn the size of your hopper
Measure on from edge 3/8" ( your offset) and 1/4" (5/8") this will be the opening for the baffle
With sharp scissors cut out around oval and check fit in hopper
Fold in half and check fit again if tight a little sanding with an emery board on edges
While folded in half hold tight and cut the line at the edge of the ovals
You can use a hole punch 3/8" to 1/2" and punch half a hole on edges while folded in half also instead or the straight cuts
While folded in half insert end down in hopper from top and move to desired location or you can insert from bottom of hopper folded end first and move up to location if hopper is removable.
Other than the couple days wait on the clamped stock this baffle takes about 45 mins to make. Less once you have done a couple

A couple tricks to making this easier.
Use you calipers to set dividers compass
you can use the dividers for every marked line for the center lines from edge set point over edge and pencil will mark lines when drawn along edge. Again setting with calipers gives very accurate layout.
Follow lines closely when cutting the better you lay out and cutting the less fitting you need to do

I like the green mountain dew bottle for rcbs hoppers ( almost a perfect color match). a Straight sided bottle is easier to work with. @ liter bottles will give a sheet good for 4-6 baffles

[Dan Cash]

Lyman 55 will suit you fine. A used one will bring about $50.00. I am starting to load .32 ACP and I think the 55 will be the measure to use.

[country gent]

The Lymann 55 was the measure used to convert to one of the most accurate repeatable measures made. The culiver conversion measure. Bench and accuracy specialists swear by this measure. I believe the Harrels is a modern copy of the Culiver also.

With small charges you may only need the top slide on the lyman. Making adjustments pretty easy. I try to set mine using th big main block to get with in 2 grains then the center slide to get to within 1 grain and the top slide for tenths of a grain. With charges in the 1-3 grn range just the top slide may handle it.