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Thread: Lyman Mold Screw removal

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    metricmonkeywrench's Avatar
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    Lyman Mold Screw removal

    So in a box of goodies I recently acquired is most of the pieces of a .38 358439 mold that I am hoping to save. It was badly stored and the outside of the mold looked pretty bad, however the baked on release agent or lube seams to have saved the cavity and a bath of evaporust cleaned it up pretty well. Luckly, though it was in pieces I was able to find the sprue plate, and sprew plate screw. On to my issue, the sprue plate screw was stripped and it is quite obvious that the lock screw is frozen in place and the PO forced the screw out for some reason. After the rust cleaning soak I tried the screw again and what I though was the screw breaking loose was actually my screwdriver bit breaking.

    I now have the usual choices, heat and soak or drill out. My normal go to move would be to grab the propane torch and heat the offending part with a liberal application of penetrating oil, however I'm concerned with possibly warping or damaging the block. to hopefully avoid warping. I may put both halves in a vice to maintain some alignment while I focus the heat on the screw area.

    Any thoughts or advice on removing this stubborn lock screw?

    Once that's out of the way I plan to clean it up a bit more, get the rebuild kit for the hardware, get some handles and somehow find a replacement HP pin assy and get this back into service.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by metricmonkeywrench; 02-14-2019 at 08:22 AM.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master 15meter's Avatar
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    Kroil, then one of these gizzez:

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-1...-205674680-_-N

    Used them before on stubborn screws with good results.

    If you have an old wood drill called a brace, you can chuck up a magnetic hex bit holder with the right screwdriver bit. Clamp the mold in a vice and really lean on the brace with all your weight to keep the bit from camming out. This is my preferred method. I've gotten some pretty nasty looking screws out with a brace.

    I've become a big enough fan that I have tracked down a fair selection of old square shanked screwdriver bits that were designed specifically for the brace.

    The original cordless drill/driver.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    I would try a couple of hours to overnight soak in Kroil Oil first and see if that will break it free. Not only is Kroil the best penetrating oil it works on breaking down the rust. As far as heat you shouldn't need that much to cause expansion if that is going to work. I use a micro torch to direct a lot of heat in a small area and would suggest that.
    If all fails then drill & tap.
    I use SS when I replace screws and put some of the copper anti-seize compound on the threads, which is good to 1800F degrees. I also prefer hex heads on the replacement screws and on the sprue screws I also prefer flange screws as it has a larger bearing surface on the sprue plate.

  4. #4
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    I could not have said anything more, or better, than 15meter just did! Precisely what I would attempt. The only possible modification is re TIME -- bion, I've "given up" in a similar paradigm, but left mould in the Kroil coffee can for over a week. Bion, when I made the decision to give one last try -- to my surprise, the stuck screw seemed to move at least one percentage of a degree. My analogy is to tapping aluminum -- I wiggled counter clockwise a couple of degrees; then re-tightened; un-tighten a wee bit more... and finally, the screw came out. I should hope you may be so lucky? Had you not had the mould soaking for a week... give it a try?
    geo

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I have used the drill press as a driver for tight screws. Grind a bit to fit the screw head snug. put in chuck and part in vise that's clamped down. Bear down on spindle handle and use a snug pin in chuck to turn screw out. Works real well and gives a lot of control since everything is held square and true. I have done this with allen and torx head screws also that were very tight or stuck.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master s mac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    I have used the drill press as a driver for tight screws. Grind a bit to fit the screw head snug. put in chuck and part in vise that's clamped down. Bear down on spindle handle and use a snug pin in chuck to turn screw out. Works real well and gives a lot of control since everything is held square and true. I have done this with allen and torx head screws also that were very tight or stuck.
    Great idea.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    I’ve used a method of heat cycling quite a bit over the years. With bolts so seized they were like welded in place. Small torch tip, heat concentrated on screw, heat till almost red, let cool, heat again, let cool, these cycles will generally work over time. Soak in Kroil work slowly, patience is a virtue here. Then if head snaps you can do drill tap Method. Good luck, may the force be with you.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master

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    A lot of times when the head comes off the actual thread is loose and can be walked out with a pick and small hammer. I was spoiled at work getting stuck screws and bolts out. I ran the edm sinker. a allen wrench socket just under screw size and burned to depth of screw or thru if possible gets a lot stronger than a standard head depth. A 1/8" allen wrench that is in to the radius is pretty darned strong. 1/4" socket .300-.500 deep dosnt round out easily and the allen wrench is much stiffer when in that deep. A added plus was the dielectric fluid and vibration of the process would loosen the screws.

  9. #9
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    Kroil in and around the screw head and fill the sprue plate screw cavity.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

  10. #10
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    After soaking, heating, etc. I've had good luck by bearing down with a good screwdriver and while I tried to turn it,
    tap on the back of the screwdriver with a hammer.
    It sort of works like a poor man's impact driver.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
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  11. #11
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    “Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils.
    the torque required to loosen them.
    This is what they came up with:
    Nothing: 516 lbs
    WD-40: 238 lbs;
    PB Blaster: 214 lbs;
    Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,
    Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
    (ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.

  12. #12
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    The key to removing stuck screws/bolts is heat and shock. I've never used Kroil but I know it works great from everything I've read. Soak it first, then fit the right screw driver tip in and wack it a few times straight down in the screw head. Then you can try tightening the screw first then loosening. If it doesn't budge I'd heat the whole mold up on a heating plate and add extra heat with a pencil torch to the screw at the end. If it didn't work I'd repeat the soak and heating a couple of times with a whack and try turning it as both with loosen the hold. If that doesn't work I'd heat it up and try the impact driver at this point. The impact works to shock and turn at the same time. You might even try a regular screw impact driver first. Worst case is the impact will snap the head and you have to go the drill and tap route.

  13. #13
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    Update, the screw is out. I finally got a set of handles and a zip tie to hold them closed allowed me to get it all secured in a vise, didn’t have any kroil, but an ample supply of PB Blaster. Heating and soaking had little effect. Each attempt further stripped the flat head more and more. I finally ground down a tiwanese 1/4 screwdriver bit to fit. Repeated tapping and turning with a 1/4 wrench (poor mans impact driver) resulted in some movement, a bit more PB and it finally broke loose. Halfway out one side of the slot fell off but I had enough out to finish with some pliers. So yep heat and shock...

    Now to find a new screw and washer....

  14. #14
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    That's great. I like hearing stories with a happy ending.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  15. #15
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    Glad you finally had success. As a side note when you get a chance, Get some Kroil Oil! The reason so many old timers here recommend it is because we have tried everything else and Kroil works when other stuff doesn't. Kroil penetrates better, faster and most importantly gets under corrosion and dissolves rust to break it free.

    I would also recommend coating all the mold threads with a copper anti-seize compound; the stuff used to coat spark plug threads.

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