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Thread: Advice with a Lyman #55 repair

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    3

    Advice with a Lyman #55 repair

    Hi Folks,
    I need to repair a vintage #55, most likely late 50's early 60's (orange paint) that came with a Tru-line junior press i bought. When it was shipped to me they did a sh*t job packing and the throw handle is snapped off. I picked up another Lyman #55, newer (gray paint, updated knocker) at auction but would like to fix the old #55 if I can. I haven't found a source for replacement parts for older #55's anywhere online. Looking at what I would need, I can see I would need to drive out two pins to remove/replace the part for the handle/set screws.

    My question to this Forum is; has anyone had success welding/braising the aluminum/pot metal these things are made from ? Muggy weld, Blue demon and others makes products for low heat soldering of pot metal/aluminum-zinc metals. I think I will try this route, figuring I can't break the broken. Has anyone tried this and what type of success has been had ?
    Thanks in advance,
    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy

    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    220
    That ain't pot metal, that's cast iron.
    You need to braze weld the parts back together.

    Might be easier to buy another complete powder measure used on eBay or buy a replacement part from Lyman.

  3. #3
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by Valley-Shooter View Post
    That ain't pot metal, that's cast iron.
    You need to braze weld the parts back together.

    Might be easier to buy another complete powder measure used on eBay or buy a replacement part from Lyman.
    Lyman doesn't sell the part and people never seem to list "broken for parts only" #55's anywhere. I'll look into brazing it.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    10,637
    I would find a piece of cold roll steel flat stock. Glue the old one back together and scribe around it. drill the hole and cut out the shape drilling and tapping the needed holes cut proud and then file or grind with a Dremel tool to size and shape with stones and sanding drums. Cast Iron could be braised back together or even welded with proper pre heat and rod. A small welding shop could do this for you quick and easy. But it wont be cheap probably.

    You can do a nice job working slow and easy making the new one from cold rolled steel. A few files and hacksaw can work wonders. or a die grinder , Dremel tool with stones burrs and sanding drums. Ink the steel with lay out die, a marker or even cold bluing ( this allows scribe lines to stand out silver on blue). Clamp the glued together handle to the plate and scribe around it. Drilling the hole first gives a added alignment. Put a dowel in the plate and set old handle over it and clamp together scribe shape and any transfer any holes locations. With the hacksaw and a bench vise cut out the new handle proud of line and then file in to exact shape. A small flat file in fine and bastard cut, a small half round and round file. will get you thru this. A set of jewelers files would be nice. or a Dremel with an assortment of stones and burrs. This is a project that can de done working carefully.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    OKC , Oklahoma
    Posts
    817
    Is there enough meat in the boss that is left on the measure to drill and tap a couple of holes and fabricate a new handle to bolt on ?

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Communism closing in!
    Posts
    2,935
    I had the same experience a while back. Broken in the same place.

    I went with regular brazing rod and a small acceytline tip. I also added thin strips of mild steel in strategic locations to beef up the unit as well. This involved brazing the added pieces to the front of and rear of the same plane as the handle so that not just the small repair area is holding handle on to the measure.

    Donít forget to prep the surfaces by sanding and fluxing you intend to join.

    Three44s
    Socialism works great until you run out of zoo animals to eat!

  7. #7
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    95
    I believe it can be repaired if you fix a steel plate on the front and fix it with 4 small screws (two above and two below the breaking line). You should take a picture to see if there is enough space!
    Perhaps there is little space to put two screws underneath: you can do the test with just one screw.
    You can also try to glue with an epoxy resin and make everything more resistant, making a resin coating around.
    Welding could cause deformations.
    Or you can remove the black screw that you see near the breaking point and make a long threaded pin to use as a handle.
    Unfortunately I do not speak English and I find it difficult to translate certain ideas!
    I think the last solution is the simplest and most functional! Do not make irreversible changes!
    If you see that it does not work you can always go back to where you left off. If it works you can file the breaking point with a file, so as not to show the break!
    Finally you can make a threaded hole next to the breaking point and screw a threaded pin to use as a handle!


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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check