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Thread: Getting started on loading for shotguns

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    metricmonkeywrench's Avatar
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    Getting started on loading for shotguns

    So I’m about to dip my big toe into realm of shotgun reloading. The most I’m looking to do is some paper target killing and casual hand thrown trap type shooting from a single barrel and a coach gun.

    Thru a great deal I have acquired an early MEC 600jr setup with a pile of bars and inserts and I think a lifetime supply of 00 buck shot and almost full case of primers. With a little cleanup and acquiring a few bits and pieces that are missing (why can’t people unscrew the bottles before they throw it all in a box) it is basically ready for 12g and I have all the pieces to convert over to .410 if I desire.

    From all the manuals and references I have looked up I have come to get the general feel of the Kabuki Dance on powders, wads, shot and cards and how specific it gets at times.

    For someone getting started is there a training wheels load combination that is more forgiving and isn’t so specific for the combination of components required? Also is there a good all-around powder to start with for the 12g for small numbered shot up to 00 buck, or is that a bridge to far load wise for a single powder?

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Target loads, as in 7/8 oz-1 1/8 oz loads at moderate velocities are super easy to load. Light loads like that leave a lot of room for error, yet there are pages upon pages of data to look through. 700x is a good powder for up to 1 1/8 oz. Get the Lyman shotshell reloading handbook, it has data for everything you will need in it.

    .410 is an oddball, plus hard to get a good crimp. It will be hard enough for you to learn crimping on 12 gauge, I'd just avoid .410 for now.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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    Good on you! 1) Decide on a hull, for general loading a AA Win or Rem gun club 1x are cheap and efficient. Say AA hulls. 1 1/8 oz load. What primers do you have? Yess 700x is cheap and versatile but not the best metering. Green dot is a versatile powder, meters well, can load 1 1/8 oz in 1100-1200 fps range . 1 lb. will load 350 shells at 20 gr per load. CLaybuster substitute WAA12 1 1/8 oz wads are adequate and cheap, 500 in a bag from BPI. $.03 each. Lead shot is the killer. $50 for 25 lbs Load 350 at 1 1/8 oz for $.143 per shell. Having the loader already a big plus and the 600 jr works great after you make the right adjustments. WAD HEIGHT IS THE KEY TO GOOD CRIMPS!!! Good luck and keep us posted.
    "My main ambition in life is to be on the devil's most wanted list."
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  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master
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    MSM gave good advice...stick with 12 ga for now.

    I use a lot of Promo as it is cheap and does all I need for target loads for Trap singles and Doubles. It will serve you well for skeet loads as well. If you want full power loads for buckshot it is not a good choice.

    I NEVER use cards. Wads are cheap and easy to use. My practice load is the XL-1 wad, 1 oz of 8's, in an STS or AA hull, and 18 gr of Promo (or Red Dot...RD is same as Promo but Promo is cheaper).

    The Lyman manual is a must have.

    You cannot mix hulls. Some are straight wall, some are tapered. Different wads and loads. Even AA and STS should not be mixed (both are tapered) but there is a slight length variation that will affect crimp quality. But then I an anal about crimps.

    Lastly, mount your MEC on top of a large raised lip cookie sheet. That will become obvious within an hour of loading. The MEC will make good loads but it is slow. It is what I started with...I think most of us old farts did...LOL.
    Last edited by dverna; 02-08-2019 at 03:02 PM.
    Don Verna


  5. #5
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    I've been loading shot shells for many years and it appears daunting at first but it really isn't hard at all.

    You've received good advice. Start with 12 gauge and stay with 12 ga. until you are very comfortable with the concept.

    The cost of shot has risen to the point that the economy of loading shot shells isn't what it was. So don't expect huge savings.

    I've been loading the same 20 gauge target load for over 15 years (maybe 20+ now ) and I see no reason to jump around chasing that "perfect" load. Find what you want, set up for it, tweek the little things if you need to and then rock & roll.

    One word of warning - You can get in trouble FAST when loading shot shells if you start freelancing with data. Do NOT deviate from the published data. There are hundreds of proven recipes out there, you can always find a safe and proven one for your needs. Don't play around with payload weight or charge weight outside of accepted data.

    Because everything has to fit just right inside the hull, there are acceptable combinations of powder/wads/ and shot weight.

    Hogtamer gave some excellent advice. Claybuster is a good substitute wad, wad height is key to good crimps and some powders meter better than others.

    Not that it really matters to you but I'm a big fan of WSF and WST powder. I've yet to find a 209 primer that doesn't work. Target loads are not at all difficult to make.

    I've got a coupe of MEC loaders and they are my favorite. They're not super fast but they've proven to be very durable. Parts are easy to come by and the MEC presses are easy to work on if something does need attention.

    So settle on an acceptable combination of powder/wad/shot weight and gather the needed supplies.

    Good Luck and Have Fun !

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy Cast_outlaw's Avatar
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    700x is a great powder for 12ga but is very dirty if you can get it clays powder burns extremely clean, meters nice in mec charg bars and, needs the least for each shot. Vectan AS and A1 bothers are clean burning, cheep and, meter well. AS for 7/8 and 1oz loads and A1 for 1 to 1 1/8 loads
    Last edited by Cast_outlaw; 02-13-2019 at 04:20 PM.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

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    If you want to keep it simple, follow the Lee Loader data sheets for both slugs and birdshot. Buckshot can be loaded equal weight as birdshot but payload volume differs so wads/wad column has to be played with.

    Good advice above ~ pick a hull and then get a recipe for what you want in the way of payload and performance. The problems with components come when you are trying to do something a little different or if you cannot get the exact components listed in a recipe. Small changes in components can make big changes in pressures. For example, a simple primer change (different brand of 209 primer) can affect pressure by up to 3000 PSI! This is not metallic cartridge reloading!

    However, if you pick readily available components and stick to a recipe it is quite simple and enjoyable.

    I reload mostly slugs and that is an area where there is not a huge amount of load data... not like loading birdshot by a long ways.

    Best to pick up a shotshell reloading manual or two, use the on line info form powder companies and... back to the lee data:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	12gauge.pdf 
Views:	35 
Size:	205.4 KB 
ID:	235571
    Lee 12ga Drive-Key Slug loads 1oz. & 7_8 oz..pdf
    Well, that's odd... one PDF shows up in line and the other is a download. Oh well!

    Also take a look at the BPI Load of the Week archive here:

    https://www.ballisticproducts.com/lo...eekarchive.htm

    Lots of good free info there.

    Most of all... have fun!

    Longbow

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    You can load the 12 gage light on shot with the proper powder & wad combination , this will make a sack of shot go further .
    Lyman puts out a very useful shot shell reloading book .

  9. #9
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    Remember that loading shotshells is not like metalic reloading, you do not work up loads. You go by published pressure tested loads, all components make enough difference that it can push you into dangerous levels. Metalic cartridges pressures are 16K psi for low pressure cartridges and up to 60K+ for big rifle cartridges. Shotshells are under 13K psi, changing components can cause a couple thousand psi difference in metalic reloading which generally isn't a problem, big issue when 2Kpsi increase is 20%...

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    All good advice above, I would suggest you look into data for 7/8 and 1 oz loads. They break targets just fine without the recoil of the oz and an eitgth stuff. Olympic trap targets are regularly broken way out there with 7/8 of 7 1/2 shot, think 45 to 50 yards for the second shot! Lots more enjoyable in a light single shot too. Promo is great, and inexpensive. Import primers are fine, and lots less$$$ than Win and CCI. Cheddite is a brand that is equlivent to Win for load data, slightly larger dia. Clay buster makes good wads, pick the one for your chosen hull and shot weight. Personally I load Rem Gunclubs in preference to current version of the Win AA. I sell the AA hulls because I have found them to be various lengths causing a pia when crimping. I load 1000s a year so the hull life matters to me, for just pasture clays just go with what you can get easily, don’t mix it causes issues! Don’t last as long either, they ain’t the same as the old compression formed AA we remember! You will not save much money loading 12ga but definately the one to learn on, they are forgiving. 410s are not easy to load and some published recipes plain will not fit in the hull! Lots of economy loading 410, but lots of pitfalls and aggravation too. I load all gages except 10ga, and my 410 loader has not been changed in 5 years, took lots of fiddling to get it right. As far as buck and slugs, there’s lots more knowledge here than I could offer. Jump in and have fun, as stated pick a book load in the 1200fps range for 1oz or 1300 for 7/8 then just load and shoot.
    “You don’t practice until you get it right. You practice until you can’t get it wrong.” Jason Elam, All-Pro kicker, Denver Broncos

  11. #11
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    Get a Lyman book for sure. If nothing else, it has charts on what the numbers on all your bars & bushing relate to.

    Price wise, the only savings I ever found was you can reload 3" magnum sort of ammo for about the price of cheap target stuff.

    You can order new bottles, but in a pinch, the press uses the same thread pattern as some soda pop bottles.
    They'll work until ya get the real ones.

    As you get into shotgunning, please post a good recipe for clay pigeons.
    They drag off their dead and wounded, but if you're quick, you can often find a few before they do.
    The ones I've found never cooked up worth a darn.
    Last edited by Winger Ed.; 02-08-2019 at 09:00 PM.
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  12. #12
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    I believe that buckshot won't feed through drop tube so those will have to be filled off the press. I'm a noob at shotshell reloading but ran into that issue pretty quick. I am finding the single stage presses like the Jr. or Versamec are really very easy and pleasant to reload on. Unless you can get a deal on components it is hard to beat the price of bulk boxes from Walmart by enough to make it worth the effort but buckshot and slugs are one place where one can more easily come out ahead reloading since those both are more expensive.

    PVC pipe cut into a collar that slips over hull to prevent hull from bulging or buckling when being crimped may prove a useful thing to look into especially for the .410 when you get around to it. Those tall skinny hulls I guess are prone to giving out under the pressure of being crimped. I had that problem with 20 gauge round ball loads, less so once I got everything adjusted just right but still worth dropping the extra protection on the hull when I crimp.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check