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Thread: Arisaka, type 38, parts interchangability

  1. #1

    Arisaka, type 38, parts interchangability

    So, I am building a type 38, starting from a barreled receiver. I may have the opprotunity, to purchase one of the Italian-made Arisaka's, for cheap. Can I just drop the Japanese barrel and receiver into the Italian stock, and use it's' bolt? I am not trying to achieve perfect historical accuracy, but rather, to own and shoot an accurate, well-functioning, Type 38, with an intact mum (which the receiver does have).

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    The "Japtalian" is a Carcano with an Arisaka magazine. I don't think much will interchange. Good luck on your project; Arisakas are good guns when lined out and action strength is a non issue.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    The TYPE I Carcano is completely different from the Type 38 except the sights, follower and floor plate.

    The Type I is not an Arisaka. It is a Carcano with a Mauser type staggered box magazine
    EDG

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Another issue that needs to be watched for. You can physically assemble a type 99 firing pin in a type 38 bolt. they will assemble, but when you pull the trigger and the firing pin drops, it will lock up the bolt. The only two ways of getting it back open are to (1): cut it apart, or (2): make a rod to go down the muzzle with a pin that will push the firing pin back so that you can rotate the bolt. (this is not easy, either) Take my word for it, this is not something you want to do.

  5. #5
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    If I had a real nice barreled action with intact mum, and if I weren't wanting to wait to find a gunshow deal on a complete gun with a sewer pipe for a barrel. I'd look at Liberty tree, they have stocks and Bolts and other parts.

    https://www.libertytreecollectors.co...&idcategory=83

  6. #6
    Well, that's alot of very useful information. I'm glad I didn't grab that Carcano. Also, that tip about the type 99 firing pin is just the sort of thing I need to know about, thank you.
    Hopefully, I can find a parts gun, but it's nice to have some other sources, so I'll be sure to bookmark Liberty Tree.

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
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    Hate to rain on your thoughts, but the cost of all the parts you will need to turn that T38 barred action into a complete rifle, will far exceed the value of the completed rifle.
    Yes, Liberty Tree Collectors, Numrich (e-gun parts) and SARCO will likely have everything you need, but it will still end up with a rifle that is totally mismatched by serial number, arsenal and series.
    You would do far better just buying a complete T38 rifle.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    A lot of 38 s used to come from the tunnels on Rabaul.........used to sell for $5 for a drum full ........Knew a guy from there had two Lewis guns from the tunnels.......whole lot is now buried by the eruption a few years ago........but the ash is so soft it washes away every rainstorm..........the tunnels will appear again someday.

  9. #9
    Eh, it will be a fun project, and I am prepared to be patient, as I wait/search for good deals on parts. Even if I don't save any money, I will at least have spread the expenditure out over time. Additionally, I intend to make this thing as much of a precision rifle as it can be, bedding the stock, carefully crafting a load, and all that jazz. By the time she is finished, she is going to be pretty, and, hopefully, a tack driver. I'm thinking 120-130 grain bullets, at high velocities, to start....

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Japlmg View Post
    Hate to rain on your thoughts, but the cost of all the parts you will need to turn that T38 barred action into a complete rifle, will far exceed the value of the completed rifle.
    Yes, Liberty Tree Collectors, Numrich (e-gun parts) and SARCO will likely have everything you need, but it will still end up with a rifle that is totally mismatched by serial number, arsenal and series.
    You would do far better just buying a complete T38 rifle.
    Can't help but think this is best advice all around.
    You need to find out which arsenal, series, serial number and assembly number your rifle is/has.
    Then determine how much parts from it would be worth versus correct parts to complete yours.(in my experience it will be 150-175% of what the rifle would be worth)
    Unless you have a valuable model(arsenal etc.)
    I spoke of assembly number. Have seen many 'non matched' Arisakas for sale which were original and matched, just not to the receiver serial number. Dealer had them marked as mismatched.
    For instance, had a mismatch rifle whose number on bolt parts didn't match serial number.
    Those bolt numbers did match the assembly number on the underside of the receiver, therefore correct.
    Also on an assembled rifle check the action screws to see if they are still peened with center punch like mark at end of screw slot, this usually indicates it has never been disassembled after manufacture.
    Gunboards' 'Japanese collector's Boards' has very large amount of excellent information.
    YMMV
    Last edited by kywoodwrkr; 02-13-2019 at 11:47 PM. Reason: Clarity

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check