Aluminum 22 Bator mold - handle "keeper pin" won't stay put.

[Land Owner]

On a 2-cavity, heavily used, aluminum mold, the Mfg. installed handle "keeper pin" is backing out. I have tried high tack adhesive - didn't hold. Reinstalling with "more force" (the "slightly" larger hammer approach) - didn't last. I am thinking now that the pin-hole is forever loose. Only one side though...

I could possibly drill and tap the mold for a side installed set screw, but that is a last resort and to me, a lot of "close tolerance" work with tools I do not currently own and experience I do not have.

What am I not seeing in making this condition a thing of the past?

[frkelly74]

If I understand your dilemma, My default would be to try a bigger pin, I have nails of all sizes laying around and would try to find one to fit the hole better and drive it in. Or possibly go and get a roll pin that fits snug and drive that in. To me it looks like a problem that can be fixed with an appropriately sized hammer, appropriately applied of course.

[Boolit_Head]

Possibly a brass pin that you can upset the ends on?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

If that is the 2-cav mold with older style blocks (Pre-2013), those pins are peened in, and the hole is larger than the pin so the pin floats in the hole, so when they are to be reinstalled, you need to re-peen the hole.

[country gent]

There are a couple ways to fix this.
1) quick and easy way is to insert pin into hole and with a prick punch or center punch just off the edge of hole ( .030-.060) tap with a hammer. di this at 4 equally spaced points around the hole. This pushes metal into hole making the pin captive. Use a light hammer and just light blows. It dosnt take much

2) More work but is removable and requires more tools.
Measure hole and find a machine screw of appropriate size. Hole needs to be close to tap drill size for the screw. Tap the holes out to the screw size. Use a tap handle lots of cutting fluid and break chip every 1/4 turn when tapping. Doing this you may need to also open up the handles holes to match the new screw size also. This is a fix that is workable and allows disassembly when desired, but it will require the following tap drill taps both starting and bottoming body drill for screw cutting fluid ( in aluminum beeswax works well) and a chamfer tool is nice. Its easier in a drill press but can be done with a hand drill if your careful.
I would simply pick up a small prick or center punch at the hardware store and use that.