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Thread: Aluminum 22 Bator mold - handle "keeper pin" won't stay put.

  1. #1
    Boolit Master Land Owner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Mims, FL

    Aluminum 22 Bator mold - handle "keeper pin" won't stay put.

    On a 2-cavity, heavily used, aluminum mold, the Mfg. installed handle "keeper pin" is backing out. I have tried high tack adhesive - didn't hold. Reinstalling with "more force" (the "slightly" larger hammer approach) - didn't last. I am thinking now that the pin-hole is forever loose. Only one side though...

    I could possibly drill and tap the mold for a side installed set screw, but that is a last resort and to me, a lot of "close tolerance" work with tools I do not currently own and experience I do not have.

    What am I not seeing in making this condition a thing of the past?
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    frkelly74's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    If I understand your dilemma, My default would be to try a bigger pin, I have nails of all sizes laying around and would try to find one to fit the hole better and drive it in. Or possibly go and get a roll pin that fits snug and drive that in. To me it looks like a problem that can be fixed with an appropriately sized hammer, appropriately applied of course.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Master Boolit_Head's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Possibly a brass pin that you can upset the ends on?
    On every question of construction let us carry ourselves back to the time when the Constitution was adopted, recollect the spirit manifested in the debates, and instead of trying what meaning may be squeezed out of the text or invented against it, conform to the probable one in which it was passed.

    Thomas Jefferson, letter to William Johnson, June 12, 1823

  4. #4

    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Land of 10,000 Lakes
    If that is the 2-cav mold with older style blocks (Pre-2013), those pins are peened in, and the hole is larger than the pin so the pin floats in the hole, so when they are to be reinstalled, you need to re-peen the hole.
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Northwest Ohio
    There are a couple ways to fix this.
    1) quick and easy way is to insert pin into hole and with a prick punch or center punch just off the edge of hole ( .030-.060) tap with a hammer. di this at 4 equally spaced points around the hole. This pushes metal into hole making the pin captive. Use a light hammer and just light blows. It dosnt take much

    2) More work but is removable and requires more tools.
    Measure hole and find a machine screw of appropriate size. Hole needs to be close to tap drill size for the screw. Tap the holes out to the screw size. Use a tap handle lots of cutting fluid and break chip every 1/4 turn when tapping. Doing this you may need to also open up the handles holes to match the new screw size also. This is a fix that is workable and allows disassembly when desired, but it will require the following tap drill taps both starting and bottoming body drill for screw cutting fluid ( in aluminum beeswax works well) and a chamfer tool is nice. Its easier in a drill press but can be done with a hand drill if your careful.
    I would simply pick up a small prick or center punch at the hardware store and use that.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check