Titan ReloadingRepackboxMidSouth Shooters SupplyLoad Data
WidenersReloading EverythingSnyders JerkyLee Precision
RotoMetals2 Inline Fabrication
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 27 of 27

Thread: Timing the PC Cure Temperature

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    10,578
    MEk & acetone will remove cured PC.
    Whatever!

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Petander's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    2,602
    I don't think Ausglock would claim copyright for the idea of sticking a probe into something to measure temp. My granny used to do this before Ausglock was born.

    Attachment 235569.

    Even I wasn't born then.

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy Ginsing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Castlegar B.C
    Posts
    176
    I'm not very experienced with PC though I have had good luck with it. Seems to be curing well, no leading, minimal clean up in the bore. I followed the instructions that came with my powder 12 min at 375 degree after flow out.
    Now my question is how do they powder coat large complicated objects with varying material thickness. Do they wait until the thickest parts are at 400 degrees? Do they have probes that test the internal temperature of the steel? I'm asking because I honestly don't know.
    I do know that we have a tendency to over complicate things.

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy
    scotner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    VA
    Posts
    249
    Quote Originally Posted by Petander View Post
    I don't think Ausglock would claim copyright for the idea of sticking a probe into something to measure temp. My granny used to do this before Ausglock was born.

    Attachment 235569.

    Even I wasn't born then.
    That is what I am thinking. The ham is already baked. All we are doing is putting a little glaze on it.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
    Dragonheart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Katy, Texas
    Posts
    2,705
    Quote Originally Posted by Ginsing View Post
    I'm not very experienced with PC though I have had good luck with it. Seems to be curing well, no leading, minimal clean up in the bore. I followed the instructions that came with my powder 12 min at 375 degree after flow out.
    Now my question is how do they powder coat large complicated objects with varying material thickness. Do they wait until the thickest parts are at 400 degrees? Do they have probes that test the internal temperature of the steel? I'm asking because I honestly don't know.
    I do know that we have a tendency to over complicate things.
    From what I have seen, which is limited, large objects are typically preheated to a uniform temperature on the oven, then sprayed and returned to the oven for full cure.
    I now do the same thing in my shop when I PC tools and other large items. Additionally, some commercial applicators use short wave infrared designed to heat the surface and not the surrounding air.

    As far as timing after the powder starts to flow I would suggest reading my previous post and seeing it it doesn't make better sense?

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy Ginsing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Castlegar B.C
    Posts
    176
    I did read your post for sure.
    With the cure method that came with my powder I have shot my 50/50 alloy up to 2300 fps with zero leading.
    The reason I like powder coating is because it is simple and it works. I'm just wondering how much better of a cure will I get if I spend the money and use your method?
    Can you say for certain I will get better results getting all the bells and whistles.
    I can say that some people like to keep it simple. And it has been working perfectly well for them and myself. Like I say people like to over complicate things. This is supposed to be a relaxing hobby, and with the powder coat has made things simple and cheap. Just a toaster oven and some powder and off you go.
    A fellow I have shot with at the range is shooting ww alloy at 2800 fps with this "wrong" method of powder coating

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
    Dragonheart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Katy, Texas
    Posts
    2,705
    Quote Originally Posted by Ginsing View Post
    I did read your post for sure.
    With the cure method that came with my powder I have shot my 50/50 alloy up to 2300 fps with zero leading.
    The reason I like powder coating is because it is simple and it works. I'm just wondering how much better of a cure will I get if I spend the money and use your method?
    Can you say for certain I will get better results getting all the bells and whistles.
    I can say that some people like to keep it simple. And it has been working perfectly well for them and myself. Like I say people like to over complicate things. This is supposed to be a relaxing hobby, and with the powder coat has made things simple and cheap. Just a toaster oven and some powder and off you go.
    A fellow I have shot with at the range is shooting ww alloy at 2800 fps with this "wrong" method of powder coating
    Actually, I think my method is simple.

    I won't say you can't get an adequate cure with your method, but timing from the flow has a better chance of under cure for the reasons I posted, however if you are getting the results you want great.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check