Permanent case identification for reformed cases

[mazo kid]

If you have cold blue, you don't need to buy Brass Black; it will do the same thing.

[tankgunner59]

I have only reformed 270 into 30-06 and 243 into 22-250, just to get the hang of reforming brass. I'd like to find a caliber that reforms into 7.62X54R but haven't found any so far. But after I reformed 243 and 270, I used an old engraver to remove the headstamps. If I trade any in the calibers, 30-06 or 22-250, I don't trade these so there is no chance of confusion for someone else.

[Tom W.]

It's good that your cases are reformed.... Mine are a bit on the recalcitrant side.

[baileyboy]

That qualifies as 2/3rd of a pun !

[GregLaROCHE]

I use a jewler’s file to put a notch in 45-70 brass only to be used with BP.

[WRideout]

I have only reformed 270 into 30-06 and 243 into 22-250, just to get the hang of reforming brass. I'd like to find a caliber that reforms into 7.62X54R but haven't found any so far. But after I reformed 243 and 270, I used an old engraver to remove the headstamps. If I trade any in the calibers, 30-06 or 22-250, I don't trade these so there is no chance of confusion for someone else.

According to Donnelly, The Handloader's Manual of Cartridge Conversions, you can make 7.62x54R from 45-70, but it appears to be a rather tedious process. Also you can buy the 7.62x54R brass reasonably enough from Starline, or trade with another member here who has excess.

Wayne

[Bookworm]

Or, you can try this to blacken the cases.
Recipe to “blacken” brass cartridge cases –

Finns used recycled "many times reloaded" shells for SAKO MpP cartridges and at least once-shot VPT cases for the Army low-pressure cartridges. The headstamp of hollow-bulleted cartridges were four concentric arched lines like parenthesis () covering the original headstamp, which could be "VPT 39...44" on the cartridges loaded in 1958. Russian black cartridges were also reloaded. But why into the British or American "Anglishkiy Zakaz" cases ? The metallurgical explanation is simple and plausible: The chemicals used for blackening of the shells were more quickly-acting, and they made a more lasting black color on the Western brass (72% Cu + 28% Zn) than on the Russian brass (67% Cu + 33% Zn), used also in Germany since the last years of WW I as "K 67" alloy.

Still one Arcane: A recipe of the Brass Blackening Mixture:

Mix in the enamelled, stone-ware or stainless steel kettle:
2 parts by weight COPPER SULPHATE (Copper vitriol)
2 p.b.w. SODIUM THIOSULPHATE
1 p.b.w. WINE STONE (Cream of tartar; Potassium bi-tartrate)
40 p.b.w. SWEET WATER (preferably distilled).

Heat the mixture boiling. Add the cases. Cook them until the color is glossy black through the colors: rose-red > blue > bluish black. Cases must be carefully degreased before blackening: No "master's fingerprints" are allowed ! Chemicals used are not the strong poisons, but the mixture is not suitable for seasoning of the celebration punch: It may cause a condition called as the "hyper-emesis", when used internally: "per os" !

[cwtebay]

Delete

[WRideout]

didn't read the entire previous post.
Wayne

[ulav8r]

I need some help. I have a large number of 30-30 brass that's been sized to a quite unusual 35-30 size (I do not own the rifle). I'm trying to size it down to 30-30 with the results of split necks. I have tried moving the decapping pin up and down, tried to size with a 303 die first - all with the same results.
Thank you for your time and help.
A quick edit came to mind. These cases were first annealed, and Hornady One Shot was tried first, followed by RCBS spray lube.

Right forum but wrong thread. Outside my knowlege base. Start a new thread to get more help.

[TNsailorman]

I was curious about using cold blue on brass cases, so I decided to give it a try. I took a .280 Remington case that had been reformed to 8x57mm and cleaned it to get all oil or other residue off it. I then used some Ortho Cold Blue to coat the base. I did this for several tries and was rewarded with a nice flat black color. Encouraged I decide to see how durable it might be. I took a flannel shirt cloth and rubbed it vigorously. Woah there hoss, it started coming off. I then decided to really give it a try with 0000 steel wool and the case came to a bright brass finish with only a little rubbing. Failed to work for me but then maybe I didn't give it a good enough trial. I am not going to waste any more blue on it. james

[cwtebay]

Right forum but wrong thread. Outside my knowlege base. Start a new thread to get more help.

Thank you, yes. I meant to post to "case reforming". I shall delete and be more diligent in the future. Thank you for all who replied, and kind regards.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

[remy3424]

Does anyone know if the "cold" blue/black products, are a coating or a chemical reaction to the brass?

[tankgunner59]

According to Donnelly, The Handloader's Manual of Cartridge Conversions, you can make 7.62x54R from 45-70, but it appears to be a rather tedious process. Also you can buy the 7.62x54R brass reasonably enough from Starline, or trade with another member here who has excess.

Wayne

WRideout, thanks for the info from the book of conversions, I'll have to save some pennies and see if I can get a copy.
I have traded some with other members, and I had some factory PPU that I shot and kept for reloading, however as I said in another thread, I found some of the PPU that have very loose primer pockets. I think it's just a individual lot thing since I've never seen it before in PPU. I have also bought some new PPU brass from Graf and Sons when they have it on hand, they are only about 90 miles from me. I've also bought Starline in other calibers, I'll have to check that out. I probably don't have all of the dies I would need to convert 45-70 to 7.62X54R.

[44magLeo]

A bit off topic, but tankgunner59 mentioned wanting 7.62x54R brass.
www.diamondkbrass.com sells once fired brass. They list 7.62x54R brass as in stock. A pack of 25 + for $15. Not sure what shipping is.
That's $.60 each. Probably mixed brands.
Leo

[tankgunner59]

Yeah thanks 44magLeo, I have their site bookmarked and I have bought some. As far as re-forming goes I am interested in finding common brass I can use in **** scenarios. Of course if 45-70 is what the manual of conversions says to use it would definitely be less expensive to buy from diamondk.

[WRideout]

WRideout, thanks for the info from the book of conversions, I'll have to save some pennies and see if I can get a copy.
I have traded some with other members, and I had some factory PPU that I shot and kept for reloading, however as I said in another thread, I found some of the PPU that have very loose primer pockets. I think it's just a individual lot thing since I've never seen it before in PPU. I have also bought some new PPU brass from Graf and Sons when they have it on hand, they are only about 90 miles from me. I've also bought Starline in other calibers, I'll have to check that out. I probably don't have all of the dies I would need to convert 45-70 to 7.62X54R.

I got my copy at Ollie's about a year ago; it's a deep discount resale type store, and they have a lot of clearance items. There might be a store near you. I could look to see if they still have a copy at this store; if so I could get it for you.

Wayne

[Texas by God]

If you don't insist on polishing your cases, a year's worth of sunshine will do it. You might get a slight annealing in the bargain

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[bcp]

Related to headstamps and marking cases, whenever possible, I always try to make cases from a donor, so that if the reformed case is put into a rifle which matches the headstamp, it either won't chamber or is no danger if fired.

Bruce

[alamogunr]

Either that or a notch in the rim:
Attachment 235082

This is the method I used on .270 Win to reform to Argentine 7.65X53. The 270 was range pickup. I don't have a 270 and there is a lot of rifle brass at the range I belong to every early fall when guys go there to sight in their deer rifles.

If I need to do any more or a different conversion, I'll try some of the things posted here.