Permanent case identification for reformed cases

[remy3424]

I only reform cases for a 6mm Rem AI and 20 Practical. The new AI cases are fairly easy to ID from the original 6MM Rem with a quick look, but the 20 Practical are much harder to tell from the original 223 Rem/5.56 rounds, particularly when both have red poly tips or are empty. Does anyone have a decent way to permanently, or at least a very durable means, to ID the reformed cases as something different that the head-stamp indicates? If so, I would love to hear what you do.

Thanks

remy3424

[mattw]

I use a decent grade fingernail polish to id my 45acp cases. Just a swipe on the head, allow it to dry and fire away. It will last for years down in the headstamp.

[Conditor22]

When I convert cases I use military brass when possible so there isn't the wrong marking on them.

[poppy42]

I second the nail Polish. It’s how I mark my 9x18 (Makarov) cases that I make from 9x19. A little touch on the head stamp does it. If it where is it off just touch it up again .

[TNsailorman]

You can also get the Birchwood Casey case Black that will blacken brass and you tell by he blackened base or the whole case for that matter. .

[nicholst55]

Dykem Steel Blue on the case head works well.

[remy3424]

Those are good ideas,I am sure any of these will work better than a sharpie....which doesn't work. I will start with the fingernail polish, I should be able to find a stray bottle or 2 around the house. Thanks to all.

[Omega]

You could always use a cannelure tool to mark the case, so it's pretty much permanent. I've seen some blank mil brass marked that way.

[Stephen Cohen]

I usually put loaded rounds nose down in box and paint primmer with nail polish and wipe it which leaves a coloured ring around primer, pick a colour that is not same as used on factory rounds, one could use nickel cases for standard and brass for improved. Regards Stephen

[Smoke4320]

or if you use SS pins to tumble your brass just add 1 steel case and run a little longer .. You will have light pink brass cases

[georgerkahn]

+1! on Dykem Steel Blue on the case head,as posted before me -- it does in fact work well, and a teeny-tiny amount seems to last forever..
geo.

[JMtoolman]

I have cut the stamping off of the case heads by using a shallow radius cutter in my lathe. You won't make a mistake with these converted cases. Cut just enough to remove the caliber stamps. The case head looks like a bulls eye with the bands between the primer pocket and also on the outside of the case. The toolman.

[country gent]

I have used a veeblock square an very sharp scribe or knife point to cut a X across the head to identify cases. an exacto knife with the back of the blade stoned to a sharp edge drawn backwards across case several times cuts a nice clean line turn 90* and repeat. M853 7.62 military ammo had a straight knurl cut around case body to identify it. Here a straight fine knurl roll of the proper size and width could replace the cutter in a pipe cutter and be used to mark cases. A stop for the case head to set against and snug down give a couple turns and you have the mark

[RogerDat]

When I convert cases I use military brass when possible so there isn't the wrong marking on them.

This is what I do also. Head stamp has armory and year no caliber. Marking blue or nail polish both have staying power. I have seen brass with a line scribed around the head stamp as a concentric circle to the primer. Effectively drawing a line though the caliber. I assume this is lathe or maybe done on a trimmer? I guess it would depend on how many I had to do and how frequently I needed that brass as to how much I would put into marking it. A single labeled box of 20 vs. 250 all at once.

[country gent]

I have used a Wilson case trimmer to clean up some rims on a case for a project and it did good. ( only removed a few thousandths). Simple cutter could be made to cut the circle type cut. or one of the case holders and a long pin to support in case head in the case. And an x stamp turned to fit the cutter sleeve a quick tap and you have a x on the head you might have to clean up thePP edge though. A piloted forester bit in drill press of the right dia would also cut a ring thru the original stampings. Here the bit would need to be modified with a small brass pilot to fit freely in the primer pocket and soldered to the bit.

[dnepr]

I have cut the stamping off of the case heads by using a shallow radius cutter in my lathe. You won't make a mistake with these converted cases. Cut just enough to remove the caliber stamps. The case head looks like a bulls eye with the bands between the primer pocket and also on the outside of the case. The toolman.

I have also used this method , very good method in my opinion as long as you have a lathe

[Bazoo]

Easiest I think is segregation of headstamps, either military or a particular commercial you don't use for regular loading. That blue ring on federal stays a good long while though.

[Moleman-]

All my 6x45 cases are nickle plated. Any 223 nickle plated cases get run through the 6x45 die so I can tell at a glance if it's a 223 or 6x45.

[17nut]

A lathe turned line to delete the headstamp:


Either that or a notch in the rim:

[remy3424]

A lot of great ideas here! With the 20PC, thinking Casey, blue or polish, might have close to 500 pieces. Might look closer at the Birchwood Casey black. If it is a chemical reaction, I could maybe dip the bottom half inch or so, then could ID from base or the body and a chemical reaction would be the least dimensional change. Thanks to everyone again for all the input.