I cast with a new Lyman 401638 4 cavity mold. It was made in March 2018, and according to the Lyman catalog, it was made in the USA. This is my first Lyman mold. For perspective, I own, or have owned and used RCBS, NOE, LBT, Accurate, H&G, and Lee molds. I have heard that recent editions of Lyman molds cast a bit undersized, and we've heard many stories of quality lapses and apathetic product support. Being that I PC my bullets, a tad undersized actually seemed like a good thing. The main reason I sold my NOE molds -- they are portly for PC. So when I stumbled upon a Midway clearance sale, I jumped.
My initial impressions were that the mold seemed to be of good quality. The blocks mated well, and it came in a nice plastic case. The handles said Made in China on the box. They are substantial, but noticeably bendier than RCBS and NOE handles. The molds have a lot of different markings on the blocks. One is obviously the date, but not sure what everything else signifies.
First the good news. The bullets dropped from my molds at a very consistent .401", and each cavity was pretty close in weight and dimensions. They weigh 177.5-178 grains. So they drop the advertised size/weight. My alloy was 3% Sb and 1% Sn with a melt temp ranging from 700-725F. Bottom pour from a Pro Melt. Seems like a nice bullet.
Note that the parting lines look exaggerated in the photo. They are actually very faint.
Now the bad news:
The hold down screw. The sprue plate cannot close if the hold down screw is seated fully. So it must be unscrewed 1/2 turn for the sprue plate to close. There is no provision for a set screw, so it spins freely. That meant fiddling with the hold down screw every cast or two. More than aggravating. I contacted Lyman today, and was pleasantly greeted with a nice lady in CS. She is sending a replacement screw. I don't have high hopes that it will fix it. Lock tight or maybe a very thin shim/washer might work too or some copper wool on the threads. Probably the sprue plate itself is a little thick. This is the extent that the sprue plate can close with the screw fully seated.
The sprue plate: No mold have I ever used so stubbornly held onto the sprues. The technique was to invert the the mold and hit the hinge of the handles FIRMLY, sometimes multiple times, or sprues would not release. I worried about the kinetic force being imparted on the pivot screw. Every few casts would leave a little disk of lead in the sprue holes. Looking further, the angled cut does not go the base of the sprue plate, leaving a bit of cylinder to grab lead. I looked at my other molds, and none are like this. A little polishing might help. And the question will be asked, so I'll get in front of it with an answer. Yes, it was plenty hot, and different sprue plate temps did not change things.
The cavity nearest the sprue hold down screw will not release bullets without a few HARD whacks on the handles. I was not able to locate a burr with the Qtip technique, but did not spend enough time examining. I'll spend a little more time with it.
I followed that mold with an RCBS 38-150-SWC. Wow, what a difference! It just works. Nice mold! Then an old H&G 2 cav, and it casts nicely too. Lastly, the 4 cav LBT, which is ABSOLUTELY DREAMY to use.
All-in-all a mixed experience with some work to get it right. If I can fix the sprue plate and hold-down issue, and the stubborn cavity, this will be a useful mold with a profile that seems to work with my Glocks.