1911 Guru's: Lubrication question.

[littlejack]

Today, with the tutoring of a couple videos, I totally disassembled my Taurus PT1911.
It really wasn't as difficult as I thought it was going to be. Other than field stripping, this was the first deep cleaning it has ever had. So heres the question. In the assembly process, should I lightly oil the touching and moving parts? I don't want to over lubricate and cause a problem of fouling and debris sticking. Should I use a light oil (3-in-one), Tetra Gun lubricant, or a light grease (lightly)?
All information greatly appreciated.

[Bazoo]

When I reassemble my 1911 upon detail stripping, I put a couple drops of oil on my fingers and wipe each part a thin coat. That’s all I give them. I use hoppes gun oil or 3 in 1 sometimes.

Normal field strip and reoil, I run a drop down each slide rail, a drop on the disconnector, a drop on the hammer/sear interface, a drop on the hammer strut pivot, a drop on the barrel link. Then I smear a drop over the barrel including lugs, and a thin smear on the bushing inside and out.

[DougGuy]

Normal field strip and reoil, I run a drop down each slide rail, a drop on the disconnector, a drop on the hammer/sear interface, a drop on the hammer strut pivot, a drop on the barrel link. Then I smear a drop over the barrel including lugs, and a thin smear on the bushing inside and out.

+1 for a range gun that stays in the safe or one that gets fired often. Any kind of light oil will work. Don't buy into that frog crap or any teflon lube hype.

For a carry gun that rarely gets fired I carry them dry if they are stainless/poly like my Kahr. Carry guns get enough dust bunnies and lint that they don't need oil to combine with the lint and possibly clog. I blow it out every couple of months. You have to consider that in a muzzle down carry, any lube that's in the striker channel or on the firing pin and spring can and will eventually migrate to the primer of the chambered round. No thanks.

[Gtek]

One of those ask ten going to get ten different answers, I am a Mobil1/red grease kind of guy lately. Environment, use, all factors in what will be best for YOU.

[tazman]

I agree with both Bazoo and DougGuy. I normally just field strip and lightly oil the slide rails and trigger mechanism.
This goes for all semi auto handguns I own.
I fire them often enough and clean them often enough that dust bunnies don't have a chance to accumulate. I shine a light into the internals and inspect for grime trying to build up. I only do a comprehensive disassembly when things get obviously bad.
It is actually pretty amazing, how long a firearm can go without being thoroughly cleaned and still function perfectly.
22lr is some of the dirtiest ammunition in use. I have a couple of 22lr pistols that have only had the slide rails oiled and the chambers cleaned in a couple of thousand rounds and they still run fine.
I still won't push the issue for any weapon I expect to rely on.

[jim147]

From the sear to the slide anhydrous graphitic. It doesn't take much.

[samari46]

I've used just plain CLP for years on all my pistols and revolvers. Never had a lube problem with any of them. Yeah,good old Lucas Red & Tacky, great grease and stays put. That's all I use for the grease points on my Kubota L3800 tractor. Always keep a couple tubes in the garage and even found it in a 1 pound tub. Frank

[M-Tecs]

No one size fits all answer. What's preferred depends greatly on if the gun is only fired a couple of hundred rounds a year or if its a comp gun the may see 50K a year. Same for cold weather.

Interesting read here

https://www.cherrybalmz.com/post/sec...um-performance

For the slide rails, locking lugs, barrel bushing and link I use https://phil-wood-co.myshopify.com/p...-tenacious-oil

[FLINTNFIRE]

I use whatever motor oil is left over in jug from changing oil , and then there is the other oil jar with the engine additive thick as can be , they both get used , no need to buy the latest flavor high priced gun lube of the week .

Light lube on all steel parts to prevent rust , all contact points get lubed as well as any moving parts , no failures , and no rust .

[Mr_Sheesh]

Definitely go light on the amount of lube.

You know you used too much oil when you fire it and your glasses (You Are wearing eyepro, Good!) becomes covered with a spatter of lube :P

[Tar Heel]

For a carry gun that rarely gets fired I carry them dry if they are stainless/poly like my Kahr.

You carry a se....se....se....semi.....semi.....semi......semi au......semi auto? HERETIC!

[DougGuy]

You carry a se....se....se....semi.....semi.....semi......semi au......semi auto? HERETIC!

Pull trigger, go BANG, what not to like gwasshoppa?

[Groo]

Groo here
I don't clean unless necessary.
The barrel if groups open up, if the gun falls in mud/sand/creek ect,or if the action gets sticky...
Otherwise wipe down the out side and carry.
Oil slide a "touch" ..
Comp guns run dripping as they are tight.
AND a carry [pocket carry] fill with grease .
This keeps out dust,dirt, lint etc.
"Two things can't be in the same place at the same time"

[Geezer in NH]

Dry guns go bang.................. Properly lubed guns go Bang, Bang, Bang, Bang, Bang, Bang, Bang, Bang, Bang, Bang, Bang.

Watching the failure to lube happens every qualifying day most policemen are not gun guys. There is a reason proper care is supposed to be done weekly. Some officers do so some before each shift others are meh about it.

Most important is never carry a fired gun, Figure that one out. (excellent reason)

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Like one of the members said above, no two 1911 owners will likely give the same answer. Dry-- No. Some lube--Yes. Lots of years ago now I bought an AMT Hardballer, which as far as I know was the very first all stainless steel 1911. The AMT company made all of the parts of the same grade of stainless and it tended to gall itself. They recommended using a mixture of white lithium grease and straight 30W motor oil. Put the grease in a small container and add just enough oil that when mixed it became a dirty white color. I tried it, and liked it so much that now, many years later, I still use it for most of my lubrication, be it pistols or rifles. It seems very much like the WW II issue Lubriplate that was issued in tiny plastic jars and carried in the butt stocks of most M1 rifles. A little goes a long way. Generally, I use a wooden matchstick and get a little blob of the grease on the end of the stick and apply it inside the slide and frame rails. Just a dab or two, as the action of the slide will smear it full length. I also apply a small dab anywhere the rub marks indicate friction like near the disconnector. I put a bit on my little finger and apply a thin coat to the inside of the barrel bushing. That will usually smear a bit onto the exterior of the barrel just by the action of the barrel passing through the bushing. As individual guns are fitted and wear a bit differently I apply where need is indicated by the rub marks. Work the side back and forth a few times and wipe any excess off with a soft rag that might appear along the bottom of the slide. That's my system, and it's good for the Pacific Northwet climate.

DG

[Burnt Fingers]

The drip point for excess lube on your 1911 is your weak hand elbow.

Since I can't get sperm whale oil any longer I use either LSA or Jojoba oil.

[Char-Gar]

"On parts that slide, use grease. On parts that rotate on a pin use oil". I used grease on the rails and all frame and slide contact points. I also put grease in the slide barrel locking lugs. I also put a thin coat on the barrel and inside of the barrel bushing. Don't worry about using to much, the pistol will kick out any unnecessary grease and you can wipe it off. Grease will last much, much longer than any oil will.

A dirty and improperly lubricated 1911, WILL become unreliable at some point in time and it will not sent you a text message giving you the time and date. IMHO that is not a good thing. I keep all my firearms clean and properly lubricated at all times.

I use good ol USGI Grease Rifle which was formulated for the M1 Garand and M1 Carbine. It also works fine on the 1911 pistol. I have a large supply of it and have used it for many years. I am certain there are more modern greases that work as well or maybe even better, but I stick with what I have used for 50 plus years.

[littlejack]

Thank you all fellas.
I finished reassembly of the frame last evening, "between honey-do's". I worked in the steel manufacturing trade my whole working career. Hand made parts, mill equipment, Pape' Caterpiller, heavy equipment repair and fabrication, machine shops etc. It never ceases to amaze me, the phenomenal minds the designers and manufacturers of firearms have had in the past and present. And, one of the top being, John Moses Browning. The man was an absolute 'genius". That's not to say, that the others, ( Luger, Kalashnikov, Stoner, Mauser) and on and on, weren't as great. But, JMB comes first to my mind regarding firearms.
The inside of the frame was pretty cruddy. I bought this pistol in 2008. I don't shoot one handgun constantly, I tend to bounce around, and back and fourth with my others. So, this pistol was not heavily shot, but it was shot, if you know what I mean. The trigger has been slowly getting harder and harder to pull over the past few years. I called my trusted gunsmith and ask if he could check out the trigger. He ask me that if the problem had been getting progressively worse, it was probably dirty inside. The trigger and pull seems to be normal after cleaning things up. I brushed out the interior with WD-40 to loosen the debris. Afterwords, I sprayed it out with Brake Clean. After drying, I lightly lubed all wear spots, and pivot points, with light oil. This week I will give it a good range session for proper function.
Thank you all again for your input.
Jack

[Cosmic_Charlie]

Wilson Combat recommends running the 1911 well oiled. That would also hold true with other designs of the era like the Garand and M1 Carbine. Does make sense to cut back on that for a seldom fired carry gun.

[marlin39a]

I use gun oil on internals, Mobil 1 grease on the slide/frame. I’ve been running my Combat Commander stainless with it for 30 yrs.