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Thread: Gas trapping on modified mold?

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
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    Gas trapping on modified mold?

    So someone here started a great thread showing how they took a lee 32 mold and machined it down to make a cheap 32 acp mold. I follwed suit and had a friend whos and ok machinist knock a little off the top of my mold. When I got it back from him I noticed he didn’t scribe in cuts on top if the mold, inder the sprue plate grooves to let the gas escape, kinda figured he wouldn’t understand that part. So I ran it and it sure seems to be holding gases. Every 3rd or so bullet will have a big bubble in the side of it. Am I correct in assuming this is the gas not being able to escape? Any ideas on how I could cut in some gas lines? Im not gonna let him have another stab at it.


    Btw, bullets drop at 77 grains.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

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    Could start with by cutting a little bevel in the corners of the mold blocks where they mate. Would give air a passage out from under the sprue plate.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

    jcren's Avatar
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    Molds didn't have vent lines that long ago. It will work, just a bit pickier about things like sprue plate tension and pour technique. I did just what taterhead described to my molds without top venting and it works. Just dont take too much or you get little fins on the bullet base.
    "In God we trust, in all others, check the manual!"

  4. #4
    Boolit Master bosterr's Avatar
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    Slow down the pour.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

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    You can bevel the edges as described above. Use a fine hard stone or very fine jewelers file. A small combination square and scribe can also be used to vent the top. you need a just visible line (.002-.005 deep) A sharp fine pointed scribe with the squares straight edge will cut very nice clean lines rotate square to each side using the 45* side. and make 2-4 passes along it with the scribe. When done lightly stone with a fine stone to remove the light burrs raised.

    I would also recommend checking the faces vent lines to make sure they are open and good. Depending on clamping pressures and material they may have been slightly distorted.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Dragonheart's Avatar
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    The above are some good suggestions. I would add maybe loosen the sprue plate slightly. Try going a little hotter on your alloy so it stays molten longer.

  7. #7
    Banned
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    More tin.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

    mattw's Avatar
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    I have one of these as well. I love it, but it has a quirk. The mould blocks are now so small that no heat is held. Cast fast and I run my alloy around 710 when using that mould.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
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    Ill try some of these guys. Including slowing the flow. As far as tin, I always run lots of tin, thats not a problem.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check