Reloading EverythingMidSouth Shooters SupplySnyders JerkyTitan Reloading
RepackboxWidenersInline FabricationLee Precision
RotoMetals2 Load Data
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 31

Thread: First time casting

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy T_McD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    380

    First time casting

    These are the best ones from the batch I did. Are these acceptable? Feel free to criticize.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0132.jpg 
Views:	120 
Size:	43.5 KB 
ID:	234619

  2. #2
    Boolit Master zymguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Ely MN. (bwcaw)
    Posts
    702

    First time casting

    Looking back in ten years they may not be your best . They shouldn’t be .
    I’d put gas checks on them, powder coat or lube them up and shoot them ! Ultimately your group size ought be the judge of how good they are , right?
    Welcome to the club !


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

    rancher1913's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    plains of colorado
    Posts
    3,649
    it gets better each time you do it and oh the savings you will start to enjoy. welcome to the rabbit hole.
    if you are ever being chased by a taxidermist, don't play dead

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    1,102
    Looking pretty good! Welcome in. I started casting 3 years ago, but still feel like a noob. Learning from these guys all the time.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy T_McD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    380
    Yup waiting on powder and gas checks. Just making sure they are worth loading, I threw most back into the pot

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Central Iowa
    Posts
    1,432
    Those look good. Your first casting session is as much about learning how everything works once you actually start pouring lead and getting a good feel for the process as it is about producing useable bullets.

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
    EMR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    252
    I think hands down the best thing I did was to get a hot plate and preheat the mold before casting. I went from culling the first 15-20 casts to only the first one so I could fill the cavities so I could lube the sprue plate.

    Welcome to the club!

  8. #8
    Banned
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    3,409
    My best move in casting was to make a PID control my pot temperature. I do most of my casting between 680° and 720°. the only time I go higher is when I cast with pure. If you don't have a PID at least get a thermometer so you know the temperature of your pot
    rule 1, make sure your alloy is clean / well fluxed before putting it in your pot

    like many others, I use a hotplate with a 3/8th inch piece of steel on top to evenly preheat my molds to apr 380°

    if you boolits aren't filling out completely add a little more tin. I smelt pewter then cast it into 1/2 oz boolits I use for alloying and sweetening the pot.

    I helps if you label all the lead/alloy you have so you know what you have and how to mix it.

    I think you did darned well for your first time, maybe 1/2 oz of tin would have helped.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master




    Cherokee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Medina, Ohio
    Posts
    2,227
    Welcome. Size, lube and shoot. Practice casting and it will get better, and build your confidence.
    God Bless America
    US Army, NRA Patron, TSRA Life
    SASS, Ruger & Marlin accumulator

  10. #10
    Boolit Master

    Sig556r's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    West of H-Town
    Posts
    1,065
    welcome to casting anonymous...it's an addiction, really

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    317
    Quote Originally Posted by Sig556r View Post
    welcome to casting anonymous...it's an addiction, really
    That's the truth. I've been known to take a day off work and not tell anyone, so I'd be the only one at home and could have all day to cast and reload. Don't do that with any of my other hobbies

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Northern Michigan
    Posts
    9,007
    Before using up components, weigh your bullets. if they vary by 1% or less, shoot them. Pistol bullets are more forgiving as the ranges are shorter so start there. Cull bullets that have imperfections, bad bases. Like I said, for most pistol applications, there is less need to be anal.

    Keeping a log of the variation is bullet weight (say do 100) for each casting session will tell you if you are improving.

    Do not admire your work as you cast. Keeping a constant cadence is often overlooked by new casters and it will improve consistency.
    Don Verna


  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy T_McD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    380
    Quote Originally Posted by dverna View Post
    Before using up components, weigh your bullets. if they vary by 1% or less, shoot them. Pistol bullets are more forgiving as the ranges are shorter so start there. Cull bullets that have imperfections, bad bases. Like I said, for most pistol applications, there is less need to be anal.

    Keeping a log of the variation is bullet weight (say do 100) for each casting session will tell you if you are improving.

    Do not admire your work as you cast. Keeping a constant cadence is often overlooked by new casters and it will improve consistency.
    Unfortunately my immediate plans for casting are limited to my 35 Whelen. Could not find cheap bullets like I can for pistol and .223.

    And I definitely caught myself checking each bullet, and remembered that I read on here not to. So that helped.

    I am hoping to avoid a hot plate, but you really just stick the mold into molten lead like the directions say? That just seems abusive to my newly purchased mold! I ask because my best guess is my mold and spruce plate were too cold. I had a few not fill out because the lead hardened too quick... again semi wild *** guess on my part
    Last edited by ShooterAZ; 01-25-2019 at 03:51 PM. Reason: language censor violation

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    317
    Quote Originally Posted by T_McD View Post
    Unfortunately my immediate plans for casting are limited to my 35 Whelen. Could not find cheap bullets like I can for pistol and .223.

    And I definitely caught myself checking each bullet, and remembered that I read on here not to. So that helped.

    I am hoping to avoid a hot plate, but you really just stick the mold into molten lead like the directions say? That just seems abusive to my newly purchased mold! I ask because my best guess is my mold and spruce plate were too cold. I had a few not fill out because the lead hardened too quick... again semi wild *** guess on my part
    It won't hurt anything to dip the mold in the melt. I mean, you're going to be pouring molten lead in it to cast, so why would lead on the outside hurt anything?
    Last edited by ShooterAZ; 01-25-2019 at 03:58 PM.

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    England,Ar
    Posts
    7,696
    Those look good. No wrinkles and the bases look sharp as do the driving bands. Good Job!

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy Static line's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Northeast Ohio
    Posts
    277
    Those look terrible.

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy georgewxxx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    South Dakota
    Posts
    477
    How deep you put the mould in the hot lead and for how long makes a difference. I usually put my moulds about a quarter to a half inch into the lead making sure you hold them tightly closed, and count to slowly to 10. Try casting and see how the boolits look. If they're still wrinkled, try and heat the mould a bit more. Make sure the lead on your sprue plate has a frosty look before you open the mould. If you cut it off too soon you'll get lead smears on the top of the mould and bottom of the sprue plate. Then you're in trouble. In time you'll learn to build a cadence time frame from each time pour and drop the boolits.
    N.R.A. Life Member

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    barry s wales uk
    Posts
    2,655
    If the bases are good shoot em .good looking boolits

  19. #19
    USMC 77, USRA 79


    Markopolo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Remote island in SE Alaska
    Posts
    3,060
    Welcome to the Cast boolit 12 step program.

    I cast with my mold much hotter. If it’s a lee mold and alum, I do a 10 count.. but steel molds and brass, take longer to get to temp... I dip just a corner of the mold and sometimes count to 30 depending on how big the mold is. You will know how long by the lead sticking on the mold... I use a plastic hammer and just tap the mold lightly, most lead falls off pretty easily with tiny bits hanging on here and there, but the lead should come off real easy if it’s up to temp... that is my way to tell. For me, the lead on the spru should solidify in about 2 sec or so... if it takes much longer, your mold is too hot. If it solidify’s right away, it is too cold. It’s a little red riding hood kinda thing, and experience will show ya...

    Marko

    Marko
    Any technology not understood, can seem like Magic!!!

    I will love the Lord with all my heart, all my soul, and all my mind.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
    ghh3rd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Tampa FL
    Posts
    2,090
    They are looking good.

    My stove spewed gasoline on my hand and ignited it on my first try. I took an Oxy and tried again 20 mins later and got my first boolit. I just couldn’t wait!

    Fun times and reward at the range are in your future.
    Plata o plomo?
    Plomo, por favor!

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check