The story on the .311 .30-06 South American Mausers is that during WW II several of those countries sided with the Allies. They were promised all the .30-06 ammo they could use for continental defense, so some of them rechambered their rifles to .30-06 but did not rebarrel them to a .308 bore. I've got two Peruvian Mausers that were so treated, a long WW I- style Gew '98 made in Germany and a shorter model made by FN. Both had worn finishes, but great bores, and shoot quite well with .311-06 loads. Both have that very nice Peruvian crest on the receiver rings.
I've heard most like that had .314 bores, though I'm sure there was a lot of variation.
The .312 Hornady 150 gr works very nicely in .303 British and 7.62X54R rifles with bores of .314 or larger. It should work fine in a rechambered 7.65 rifle. They make a 175 gr bullet as well. Originally intended for reloading for 7.7 Jap rifles or Jap 7.7 rifles rechambered in .30-06.
Hello:
The Mauser nominal barrel spec is .311 for the model 1891 and .312 for the 1909, both models have same chamber specs with a long free bore to accept the original 7,65 x 53 ammo. The 1891 bullet was 211 gr RN (.311) and the 1909 was 182 Gr Spt (.312). In 1904 there was a pointed bullet for the 1891 rifle (182 Gr .312).
As for the bolt question, any 1909 bolt will be Ok. You must check the head space but I am sure that 90% will be in specs, and if you form brass you can correct any small diference.
SALUDOS
From Argentina
Last edited by GUSTAVOAR; 01-28-2019 at 06:54 PM.
I recently bought a bag of new 100 PPU cases from Graf & Sons. Don't remember the exact price but thought they were a bargain.
I had a friend give me a partial box of PPU loaded ammo as he sold his gun. I found this ammo was on the hot side when I shot it here in the Arizona summer.
I made brass from 30-06, etc. for quite a few years with a full length sizing die. Had to size some, remove, trim, size some more. The trim die works much easier. The reformed cases have thicker brass in the new neck which actually helps fill the generous chamber neck.
I went into a local shop yesterday and they had a metal ammo box filled with boxes of Argentine Mauser factory ammo. No dates or any marks that I could make out. Not even sure if it was Berdan primed. I walked away, not knowing for sure what the ammo was. The shop assured me that it was 7.65X53, probably based on the seller they bought it from. I'm sure my Mauser could handle it if it's the correct ammo, but what markings other than what's on the can would you look for?
back in the 90's I bought 2,000 rounds of surplus real cheap. I never fired any of it. but I think it is berdan primed. it just has a date on the head.
I lucked into a really nice 1891 rifle, sat in someones closet for a long time, had a scope mounted, nice sporter job on the stock, aftermarket rear sight fitted, everything matching. Guess whoever owned it thought it was junk as it had zero accuracy. Tho shooting 7mm mauser out of a 311 barrel might have been the problem. Gunshop had it labeled as 7mm.
The PPU ammo they ordered was junk, loaded with 308 bullets. With proper 311 174gr match it drills them. I converted some cases I had, but way easier to just buy brass.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |