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Thread: Browning 1886 lifter question

  1. #1
    Boolit Master veeman's Avatar
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    Browning 1886 lifter question

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    I noticed on my new to me Rifle that the lifter doesn't rise until the very end of the lever stroke, and then a bit of effort at the last and it will snap up. Is that normal? Or is there an adjustment needed? Timing?

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
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    .

    To function properly, the levers of most leverguns need to be operated like it owes you money (fast/hard, & fully).

    .
    Now I lay me down to sleep
    A gun beside me is what I keep
    If I awake, and you're inside
    The coroner's van is your next ride

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    That's the norm for lever guns has to work that way or the shell being ejected would be interfered with the round on the lifter. I have that same rifle and they will shoot well. I have a old Lyman mold that throws out .457 dia 195 gr bullet loaded with 11 grs. Unique great for chipmunks or chipo-lo as I call them or you can load it for Grizz !

  4. #4
    Boolit Master veeman's Avatar
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    OK thanks. My Browning SRC doesn't have that final "snap", very fluid. But it also had some action work done years ago.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    My Browning SRC needs some effort to crank the lever...on occasion it seems to get stuck. This happens when you slowly work the lever with the loading gate up...hold the carbine up-right and jiggle the lever and it works fine again. I think the lever/bolt pin catches something sometimes. Have never had it happen if I'm shooting it or working the lever with authority....

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    I have an original wincester and it does the same thing. You need to practice working the lever fast and hard. I bought an 1887 shotgun and its ridiculous. The lever throw is so long.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master


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    Not a Browning or a Winnie but I just slicked up my Chiappa 1886 rifle and it is a heck of alot smoother through the cycle. The big culpert in mine was was smoothing up the carrier slot that the carrier hook slides in. I thought the carrier was hanging up on machine marks inside the receiver which wasn't the case. I did some minor edge breaking and that was about it. If needed, I'll address the ejector spring and thinning the extractor so it slides over the rim easier in the future. For now, I'm not busting up my knuckles plinking with my 186 gr NOE 460 buttons and unique.

    I heard alot of horror stories on the web about putting the 1886 guts back in. It just kinda came apart so I figured there would be some head scratching getting it back together. This is what I figured and I didn't need three hands each with 7 fingers.

    NOTE: When you are takeing it apart. Start at the cartridge gate. Remove it, then remove the cartridge blocking arm, which blocks the opening of the cartridge gate as the action is opened. Once these two are removed, you can see the interaction and locations on the carrier, carrier hook and where the carrier hook attaches to the lever.

    1. Insert carrier with carrier hook in carrier hook slide channel of the carrier.
    2. Insert lever up through receiver and out through hammer slot.
    3. Repin bolt onto lever. The hole in the lever tang just below the bolt is where the other side of the carrier hook attaches to.
    4. Slide/jiggle bolt about 3/4s in. Roll receiver onto it's left side so you can see in the the cartridge gate cut out in the receiver. With a strong light, slowly arrange the carrier hook to be inserted into the hole in the lever with a dental pick. You will probably need to move the bolt back and lever down as you aline the two parts up to get enough room to get the pin in the hole.
    5. Role the receiver over, insert locking bolts and the hammer pin in and close the bolt.
    6. Remove hammer screw, install trigger sub assembly and hammer ect...
    Last edited by Greg S; 01-29-2019 at 03:27 PM.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg S View Post
    Not a Browning or a Winnie but I just slicked up my Chiappa 1886 rifle and it is a heck of alot smoother through the cycle. The big culpert in mine was was smoothing up the carrier slot that the carrier hook slides in. I thought the carrier was hanging up on machine marks inside the receiver which wasn't the case. I did some minor edge breaking and that was about it. If needed, I'll address the ejector spring and thinning the extractor so it slides over the rim easier in the future. For now, I'm not busting up my knuckles plinking with my 186 gr NOE 460 buttons and unique.

    I heard alot of horror stories on the web about putting the 1886 guts back in. It just kinda came apart so I figured there would be some head scratching getting it back together. This is what I figured and I didn't need three hands each with 7 fingers.

    NOTE: When you are takeing it apart. Start at the cartridge gate. Remove it, then remove the cartridge blocking arm, which blocks the opening of the cartridge gate as the action is opened. Once these two are removed, you can see the interaction and locations on the carrier, carrier hook and where the carrier hook attaches to the lever.

    1. Insert carrier with carrier hook in carrier hook slide channel of the carrier.
    2. Insert lever up through receiver and out through hammer slot.
    3. Repin bolt onto lever. The hole in the lever tang just below the bolt is where the other side of the carrier hook attaches to.
    4. Slide/jiggle bolt about 3/4s in. Roll receiver onto it's left side so you can see in the the cartridge gate cut out in the receiver. With a strong light, slowly arrange the carrier hook to be inserted into the hole in the lever with a dental pick. You will probably need to move the bolt back and lever down as you aline the two parts up to get enough room to get the pin in the hole.
    5. Role the receiver over, insert locking bolts and the hammer pin in and close the bolt.
    6. Remove hammer screw, install trigger sub assembly and hammer ect...
    Hey, I had issues reassembling my '86. How do you line up all the parts for the pin in the bolt. I have an original Winchester, so im not sure if all companies have the same parts. It took me hours to line up the pin for the lever,extractor,firing pin...etc. I needed three hands! What can I do to hold the extractor spring down? I had to hold it down with one hand and line up all the other parts with my other. And that little spring is no joke!

  9. #9
    Boolit Master


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    Kev18. Uh, the only difference between the 86 and the 92 is the 92 bolt/lever pin is installed with the bolt in the receiver and the 86 is out of the receiver. The ejector needs to be slightly compressed nd the firing pin aligned and the bolt/lever pin should slide right in.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg S View Post
    Kev18. Uh, the only difference between the 86 and the 92 is the 92 bolt/lever pin is installed with the bolt in the receiver and the 86 is out of the receiver. The ejector needs to be slightly compressed nd the firing pin aligned and the bolt/lever pin should slide right in.
    I have a Chiappa 86 (sposed to be the zact copy of a winchester) I can wiggle the lever bolt assembly out in one piece once the tang and locking bolts are gone - the bit that I had trouble with is keeping the carrier hook located properly when you getting the bolt back in its rails, (a dab of thick grease helps!) - once I figured that out the rest was easy

    They borrowed the uberti gorilla for some of the initial assembly - had to use an impact driver on the ladle screw and forend cap screws first time out.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg S View Post
    Kev18. Uh, the only difference between the 86 and the 92 is the 92 bolt/lever pin is installed with the bolt in the receiver and the 86 is out of the receiver. The ejector needs to be slightly compressed nd the firing pin aligned and the bolt/lever pin should slide right in.
    I know but how do I compress everything while trying to slide the pin in? Took me forever. SOmeone once told me to leave an empty case in the ejector so that it stays compressed but im not sure that will work. Its commonly done with bolt actions though...

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev18 View Post
    I know but how do I compress everything while trying to slide the pin in? Took me forever. SOmeone once told me to leave an empty case in the ejector so that it stays compressed but im not sure that will work. Its commonly done with bolt actions though...
    Kev (try this way)
    assemble the lever to the bolt on the bench (out of the gun) then slide the lever back down through the reciever from the top, start the carrier in, fit the carrier hook, then start the bolt in its rails - keeping the carrier hook in place is the most difficult because at that point the carrier is still loose - once you get the bolt closed with the carrier hook in place the rest is easy.
    First time with an 86 takes ages

  13. #13
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by indian joe View Post
    Kev (try this way)
    assemble the lever to the bolt on the bench (out of the gun) then slide the lever back down through the reciever from the top, start the carrier in, fit the carrier hook, then start the bolt in its rails - keeping the carrier hook in place is the most difficult because at that point the carrier is still loose - once you get the bolt closed with the carrier hook in place the rest is easy.
    First time with an 86 takes ages
    Alright il try it next time. I took apart an 1873 and it was so easy compared to the 1886.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master


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    Indian Joe - Thinking outside of the box.

    assemble the lever to the bolt on the bench (out of the gun) then slide the lever back down through the reciever from the top, start the carrier in, fit the carrier hook, then start the bolt in its rails - keeping the carrier hook in place is the most difficult because at that point the carrier is still loose - once you get the bolt closed with the carrier hook in place the rest is easy.

    Didn't think of that. Making something hard easy. I've only taken mine apart once and was more concerned getting the hook in right since it all just kinda came out lol. The bolt/lever wasn't after slicking up a few 92s. I thought the dental pick was easy enough to line everything up. G

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg S View Post
    Indian Joe - Thinking outside of the box.

    assemble the lever to the bolt on the bench (out of the gun) then slide the lever back down through the reciever from the top, start the carrier in, fit the carrier hook, then start the bolt in its rails - keeping the carrier hook in place is the most difficult because at that point the carrier is still loose - once you get the bolt closed with the carrier hook in place the rest is easy.

    Didn't think of that. Making something hard easy. I've only taken mine apart once and was more concerned getting the hook in right since it all just kinda came out lol. The bolt/lever wasn't after slicking up a few 92s. I thought the dental pick was easy enough to line everything up. G
    Took me ages the first time - enough so that I didnt want to do it again - but - by the fourth time - started to get it figured out - people think they just an over grown 92 ---same operating principle I guess but thats about where the similarity ends.
    I didnt have a dental pick - woulda been handy! - the carier hook properly in place is the secret - took many false starts, first time round.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check