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Thread: Converting Pardus (Turkish Folder) 12 ga. to 357 Mag

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Converting Pardus (Turkish Folder) 12 ga. to 357 Mag

    I started with a Pardus shotgun I bought for $89. It's a Turkish folder with an internal hammer. I also have a .357 mag barrel from a Timberwolf rifle that madmathemagician on the GBO forum generously gave me for the cost of shipping.

    Link to donor shotgun:

    https://www.centerfireguns.com/i-o-s...-pard0001.html


    I decided to start by prepping the receiver. First up was a trigger job. Two pins hold the trigger group to the receiver and then three more hold the hammer, sear, and trigger.



    Here is how they interact:



    I polished the mating surfaces and SLIGHTLY flattened out the notch in the hammer so that pulling the trigger doesn't cock the hammer further. I also swapped the sear spring for one with about half of the strength. The trigger is now about 4 lbs, smooth, but still a little creep. I'm going to leave it there and err on the side of safety.

    Polished parts:






    Next, I had to do something about that big shotgun firing pin. So I drilled and tapped the receiver for a 6-48 screw:



    Then drilled the screw lengthwise with a .070" bit:



    Used JBweld to secure it in place:



    Cut it flush and touched it up with some cold blue:



    Chucked the firing pin in the mill and used a dremel to grind it down. (It's a little uneven - I may have to turn one on the lathe.)



    It has a max of .068" protrusion, so I may need to trim it back.



    Next up: Barrel and extractor.

  2. #2
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    if you are ever being chased by a taxidermist, don't play dead

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Are the Academy stores the only place to get these Yildiz shotguns? Their website shows them as in store sales only. I did a bit of searching and have not found any other companies selling them.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    heck yeah.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gewehr-Guy View Post
    Are the Academy stores the only place to get these Yildiz shotguns? Their website shows them as in store sales only. I did a bit of searching and have not found any other companies selling them.
    That's the only place I've seen them too. This a Pardus, so I don't know how similar they are or how many different Turkish manufacturers there are. Some have an external hammer and the barrel release incorporated in the trigger guard.

    I have a 30 cal barrel blank that I would like to put in a .410 Yildiz and chamber in a .30 Badger so if you find them online, please let me know.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    Saw the Yildiz at Academy in Conway this morning. $129 for the 410, $139 for the 12 gauge. Was in display behind glass, and the one clerk was busy so I did not get to hold it.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master Jedman's Avatar
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    KLR, Looks great ! I just recently reworked the trigger sear on a 410 Yildiz and it improved the trigger pull a lot. You can't not want a simple 357 break action rifle. I am not fimilar with the Pardus shotguns but it looks similar to the Yildiz and if they have wood stocks that is really a great price !
    Keep us posted on your project, we all love these type of projects and like to see pics ! Good Luck !

    Jedman

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Jedman, Unfortunately, this shotgun has a plastic stock.

    Now for today's installment.

    I faced the chamber, cut a recess for the rim on the lathe and then used needle files to move the extractor notch back. I'm not real happy with the finish. I used a hss bit ground to a sharp point. Any tips for a smoother cut would be appreciated:





    Next I drilled and tapped the extractor for a 1/4-28 screw:




    Then took a 1/4-28 Grade 8 bolt and tightened it in a piece of iron pipe to hold it for milling. I cut off the head, milled it to fit the width of the extractor slot in the barrel, and squared up the front face:



    Kept milling until I had removed everything that didn't look like an extractor and then threaded it into the 12 ga extractor:



    A little file work to get everything to fit and I'm almost ready to epoxy the two barrels together:



    Up next: Drill and tap receiver for the scope base, score inside of shotgun barrel for epoxy, and glue it all together.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master Jedman's Avatar
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    KLR, Man you do nice work ! Don't worry about the epoxy bond, if you have the parts clean they will be bonded together forever. Cool project !

    Jedman

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    Looking good; how long are you finishing the barrel to?

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks, Jedman!

    Texas by God - the rifle barrel is 18.5", but I cut the 12 ga barrel to 19.75". I want to see if that will direct the blast forward a little. If not, I'll chop it to 18.5.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KLR View Post
    Thanks, Jedman!

    Texas by God - the rifle barrel is 18.5", but I cut the 12 ga barrel to 19.75". I want to see if that will direct the blast forward a little. If not, I'll chop it to 18.5.
    It should. I like how you fixed the extractor. Keep it coming, we are enjoying this. Stubbing is fun and you get a MUCH funner gun than a 5# 12gauge!

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    I agree with Texas. I don't have the tools, or the know how. But am loving watching you work through this project.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks, guys.

    Right now it weighs 6.4 lbs. I still need the scope rail and scope. I didn't even shoot it as a 12 ga. I have eye floaters.....and an aversion to pain.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Today:

    Drilled and tapped shotgun barrel for 8-40 threads:



    Installed a Weaver number 74 scope base and milled it to fit:



    Finished scope base:



    Installed on rifle:



    I need to touch up the raw aluminum and figure out a finish for the barrel since I removed the vent rib. I'll likely sand the whole barrel and cold blue it.

    Time now to bond the two barrels together.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master Jedman's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	234660Here is a short carbine in 44 Mag that I built 7-8 years ago from a H&R M 48 12 ga. shotgun.
    The rifle barrel was made from a 20 ga. barrel I picked up at very low cost somewhere and used a Timberwolf 44 barrel when they were available turned to fit as a liner in the 20 ga. Originally I faced the barrel off and cut a rim recess and made it a 44 special without reaming the barrel liner ended up about 18" long and I cut the 20 ga. Barrel off at 19" so the muzzle is recessed about a inch. The forend I made from black cherry and stained to look close to the walnut on the butt stock.
    Decided to try the Burris fast fire sight instead of a scope and it shot great, half dollar sized groups at 100 yards with the red dot sight. The first day I took it out hunting I shot a average sized 7 pt whitetail buck with a Lyman devastator HP cast bullet.
    Later a friend was reaming a barrel with the GBO 445 super mag reamer and I used it to deepen the chamber to use 44 Mags if I want and it shoots as good or better than as a 44 spl.
    I still have the original 12 ga. barrel with its matching forend that fits this gun perfectly also.

    Making the barrel recessed didn't seem to change the sound of the 44 spls. Or 44 mags. Or hurt the accuracy either so I left it as I made it at 19" as I think it looks better than it would if I had cut it to 18", sorry about the dark pics as you can't see the muzzle inside the 20 ga.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by KLR View Post

    I faced the chamber, cut a recess for the rim on the lathe and then used needle files to move the extractor notch back. I'm not real happy with the finish. I used a hss bit ground to a sharp point. Any tips for a smoother cut would be appreciated:
    .
    Use a fine whetstone to smooth up the cutting edge and stone a light radius on the tip of the tool. The radius will do the most to smooth the cut. Normal practise is to use a radius equal to or larger than the depth of cut.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    Jedman - That looks nice. I had originally intended to use a H&R, but prices shot up after they quit making them. The Fast Fire looks like a great way to keep the rifle light and handy. Is that a SB1 frame?

    Glad to hear that 44 Specials shoot accurately out of your 445 chamber. I'm renting the GBO 357 Max reamer and I'm wondering if my Pardus frame is up to handling the 357 Maximum pressures, but I can always just shoot standard 357 mag loads. The chamber area of my barrel did not have to be turned down so I think I'm safe, and if the frame can hold up to a 12 ga slug, it should be able to take a 200 gr bullet at 357 Max velocities. Yes? No?

    ulav8r - Thanks for the info! I will do that the next time.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    It looks like the top flat at the rear of the frame would be an easy place to mount a tang sight, then maybe file a radius on the edges.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master Jedman's Avatar
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    KLR, The frame on the H&R M 48 is not a SB 1 as this gun was made many years before NEF but it is similar, main difference is it has no transfer bar and the firing pin is struck directly by the hammer.
    I may have confused people by the mention of using the 445 reamer, I didn't ream the chamber to the length of the 445 case I just went deep enough to chamber 44 mag brass + about .010 since it already had the rim cut. I don't shoot top pressure 44 mag loads in it as its not necessary but I think the frame is strong enough for them. I didn't bush the firing pin and don't get any primer flow so all is good for my use.

    Is the Pardus frame steel or iron or aluminum like the Yildiz ? It may be up to firing the 357 max only you know what's in your handloads and how the gun seems to open, close, extract when you use hotter loads and what your fired primers look like which is not really a good thing to judge by.
    Overall my personal feeling is strait walled cartridges firing cast bullets are easier on the guns frame than any bottle necked cartridge.
    Also 200 gr. At 357 mag velocities out of max brass would surely be lower pressure do to mush larger case capacity.

    Your gun looks very nice !

    Jedman

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check