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Thread: 9mm Makarov

  1. #1
    Boolit Master



    Echo's Avatar
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    9mm Makarov

    I just bought a CZ 82 in 9Mak, cast some boolits for it (Lee 2-banger) and need to size them, as there is some flash on the base on many of the boolits. The sprue plate seems too loose, and the LH screw holding it in is fairly unmovable. Does anyone make a die to screw in my RC press so I can use the Lee system, without paying $40+ for a custom Lee?
    Echo
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    One of the most endearing sights in the world is the vision of a naked good-looking woman leaving the bedroom to make breakfast. Bolivar Shagnasty (I believe that Lazarus Long also said it, but I can't find any record of it.)

  2. #2
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    Not less than $40 initially but all future sizes would be $17.25 of less if you have a pushrod for the caliber. NOE has a LARGE selection and Al is a great person to do business with.

    http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.php?cPath=104_410 $39.95

    http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product...oducts_id=2544 $9.75 (or whatever size you need

    http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product...oducts_id=2545 or you can use any LEE .357 push rod $7.50

    once you have the Push Through Size Die Body new size bushings are only $9.75 if you don't have a push rod in that caliber they are only $7.50

    the also sell nose sizing bushings that fit the Push Through Size Die Body

    they are much easier to store than the Lee



    my lee boolits work as dropped with a thin powdercoat on them.

    ** I made all my 9x18 brass out of nickel 9x19 to make it easier for me to tell the difference

    my MAKAROV 9MM 9X18 BULGARIA 1942 slugs out at 366 so I use the 366Cal .367 Body

    It takes a little effort but you can break the sprue screw loose, drill and tap a set screw on the side of the mold (like RCBS) and your golden or ---- return the mold for another one.if the sprue screw shoulder is to long add another spring washer
    Last edited by Conditor22; 01-20-2019 at 05:48 PM.

  3. #3
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    I bought a Lee sizer in .358 and honed it out myself with sandpaper turned by a hand drill.
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  4. #4
    Boolit Master



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    Thanks, guys - I'll do SOMETHING...
    Echo
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    One of the most endearing sights in the world is the vision of a naked good-looking woman leaving the bedroom to make breakfast. Bolivar Shagnasty (I believe that Lazarus Long also said it, but I can't find any record of it.)

  5. #5
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    I have a CZ82 also. I cast some for it years ago. Never any issues. Read in a few places that you shouldn't fire cast bullets through a firearm with polygonal rifling like the CZ82. I only fired 60 or so cast bullets through mine before I read that. Never noticed any leading or a accuracy issues with them though.

  6. #6
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    I first would soak you mold in Kroil Oil to loosen a stubborn screw. As suggested I would purchase a Lee push through sizing die and polish it out with buffing compound or diamond paste on a wood dowel with the die chucked up in a lathe or drill press. I also agree you should not fire cast bullets in a polygonal rifled barrel as you will get recessive leading. If the bullets are powder coated it is not a problem as you have created a polymer jacket on the casting. The NOE system works, but is going to be a more expensive startup unless you are going to size several calibers.

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    the best release agent noted on a machinist forum is a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragonheart View Post
    I first would soak you mold in Kroil Oil to loosen a stubborn screw. As suggested I would purchase a Lee push through sizing die and polish it out with buffing compound or diamond paste on a wood dowel with the die chucked up in a lathe or drill press. I also agree you should not fire cast bullets in a polygonal rifled barrel as you will get recessive leading. If the bullets are powder coated it is not a problem as you have created a polymer jacket on the casting. The NOE system works, but is going to be a more expensive startup unless you are going to size several calibers.
    I have shot my two polyganally rifled pistols with cast and got NO leading. One Glock and one H&K

  9. #9
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    Even in a regular rifled barrel there is a thin deposit of lead with cast, just as there is a coating of copper when jacketed bullets are used. A polygonal rifled barrel is more aggressive and will build up faster. The worst leaded barrel I have ever seen was from a Glock; it took hours of electrolysis to remove the lead. On visual inspection the barrel didn't look bad as lead tends to deposit and get polished so it resembles a clean barrel. The build up reduces performance and can create excessive pressure and that is the danger the manufactures warn about. If you chemically test the barrel you will find lead, but it's your nail so drive it as you wish.

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I've had Makarov's and my CZ82 for years, long enough ago that Buckshot made me a H&I die for them. I think Lathesmith will do the same now.
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  11. #11
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    I have a pair of CZ82 pistols and shot lead bullets in the for years, many, many hundreds with never a problem. Same with my Glock, if you do it right there’s no problems.

    I powder coat now and that’s even better. I had a custom die made for a Lyman 450, but now that I powder coat I need to buy a .366 push through die. I sure wish Lee would make one as a standard item. Sooner or later I’m going to break down and start buying NOE sizers. I actually had a cart full of sizers recently when they had a sale, but couldn’t get the checkout to work and gave up.

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    9 x 18 chrome boolits in nickel cases ----Lone ranger


  13. #13
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    All this hub bub about Polygonal Rifling has me all worked up.

    First; Glocks don't have polygonal Rifling, no matter what Glock says. They have rifling with Rounded Lands instead of Square Lands.

    Second: True Polygonal Rifling has been around since the end of the 18th century. It looks like a circle with 4 or 5 flats on the circumference then twisted to obtain the spin.

    CZ82's have true Polygonal Rifling. Glocks don't! I have several of both.

    Not firing lead boolits in Glocks is also serious BS and I have had a "Certified Glock Armorer" inform me that doing so would result in blowing the gun up. I asked him when it was going to happen as I had been doing it for 20 years?, and he said it could happen at any time. I indicated that he had no idea what he was talking about, and his retort was "he was a Certified Glock Armorer!" I rest my case!

    Also for those who missed it, there is a sticky in the Pistol Forum entitled "The Truth about Glocks and Cast." reading it should clear up any problems in this area.

    As far as Polygonal rifling goes,,, it was created to reduce or eliminate leading in large caliber rifles, which were prone to barrel leading.

    Powder Coating boolits eliminates leading because you are essentially jacketing the boolit with a Polymer Jacket. Copper Jacketed bullets don't lead barrels and neither do Polymer Jacketed boolits. Works great!

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
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  14. #14
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    DEFINITION: Polygonal rifling (/pəˈlɪɡənəl/ pə-LIG-ə-nəl) is a type of gun barrel rifling where the traditional sharp-edged lands and grooves are replaced by less-edged "hills and valleys" in a polygonal pattern, usually taking the form of a hexagon or octagon.

    If you shoot properly coated, cured and sized PC bullets it is a non-issue anyway, so don't blow a gasket.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragonheart View Post
    Even in a regular rifled barrel there is a thin deposit of lead with cast, just as there is a coating of copper when jacketed bullets are used. A polygonal rifled barrel is more aggressive and will build up faster. The worst leaded barrel I have ever seen was from a Glock; it took hours of electrolysis to remove the lead. On visual inspection the barrel didn't look bad as lead tends to deposit and get polished so it resembles a clean barrel. The build up reduces performance and can create excessive pressure and that is the danger the manufactures warn about. If you chemically test the barrel you will find lead, but it's your nail so drive it as you wish.
    Electrolysis is probably the slowest way to remove lead. Lead doesn't build up in my barrels. I have shot quite a few rounds to prove that.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by dondiego View Post
    Electrolysis is probably the slowest way to remove lead. Lead doesn't build up in my barrels. I have shot quite a few rounds to prove that.
    Have you ever tried electrolysis to remove lead or copper? On light deposits it is removed fairly fast and safely; with a heavily leaded barrel it can take hours, but it is completely removed with little effort.

    If you have ever fired lead or copper projectiles then there are lead or copper deposits in the barrel.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragonheart View Post
    Have you ever tried electrolysis to remove lead or copper? On light deposits it is removed fairly fast and safely; with a heavily leaded barrel it can take hours, but it is completely removed with little effort.

    If you have ever fired lead or copper projectiles then there are lead or copper deposits in the barrel.
    I own an Outer's Foul Out.........I also own Kroil and ChoreBoy.

  18. #18
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    All three work quite well, but the best option is Powder Coating your bullets so there is no metal contact with the barrel and eliminate the problem all together.

  19. #19
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    I have a Lyman mold which casts at .3655". I don't size them and just tumble lube in Lee Liquid Alox. I cant shoot as well as this shoots with a MAX load of AA5.
    A deplorable that votes!

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Echo View Post
    I just bought a CZ 82 in 9Mak, cast some boolits for it (Lee 2-banger) and need to size them, as there is some flash on the base on many of the boolits. The sprue plate seems too loose, and the LH screw holding it in is fairly unmovable. Does anyone make a die to screw in my RC press so I can use the Lee system, without paying $40+ for a custom Lee?
    I had one Lee mold that did that. I put it in a vice and found the perfect fit Phillips and broke it loose..I used blue locktite when I tightened it up to help keep it tight. You could place a bit of JB weld in there if needed also to take up space.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check