I have 4 cavity molds for both the Hensley Gibbs #50 and the Lyman 358495.
The seem almost identical. Has anyone seen any accuracy difference between these two?
I know, I know, test them in your guns, but I am snowed in this weekend.
I have 4 cavity molds for both the Hensley Gibbs #50 and the Lyman 358495.
The seem almost identical. Has anyone seen any accuracy difference between these two?
I know, I know, test them in your guns, but I am snowed in this weekend.
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Drawing from my experience shooting competitive pistol matches, assuming both bullets were cast from the same materials with the same amount of skill, I doubt if anyone could detect a practical difference between the two. If the snow precludes you from shooting but not from casting, I am confident whichever you produce will have a 10X potential. Others may feel differently.
I can't tell the difference between most wadcutters when shooting and definitely not between the two mentioned. Both are excellent designs and you just can't go wrong with either of them.
Another thing to consider is the 4 cavity molds. I'd be inclined to think the one with the four cavities closer to identical (determined by the average weighed bullets from each cavity) would be "more accurate" out at the target.
Rule 303
I'd go with the H&G, I've seen too many Lyman 4 cavity molds where the cavities differed considerably in size /weight. PS the older ones ar OK.
Like piedmont said, cast a few from each mold (keeping the boolits from each cavity separate) and see which mold drops the most consistent boolits
Those two bullets are remarkably similar. The Lyman may have a slightly wider front driving band but I doubt there's any practical difference in accuracy.
However without comparing the two individual molds directly, there's no way to really know.
If the Lyman mold is a newer mold I might be inclined to assume the H&G will have closer consistency between cavities. But that's just based on Lyman's declining reputation, I have no direct knowledge of that.
I can't really tell the difference between the two. I used to have a 10cav #50, but it got too heavy for my arthritis. I had a 4cav #358495, and I can't tell the difference between the two bullets.
I don't use wadcutters any more, but go on and cast bullets from each. Just pick the one You prefer to CAST with.
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Its always worth testing, but I agree with the others you likely won't see much if any difference. I spent a few months dialing in my 6" K-38, and tried H&G, Lyman, Ideal, RCBS, and ended up using a LEE. The LEE made 6 versus 2, and shot every bit as well at 50 yards. I also discovered wadcutters aren't the best choice at 50 yards and longer, they are pretty easy to beat, at least in my guns.
I agree with Dubber, the Lee was the most accurate in my guns. By far.
I just did a quick 'net search and found pics of both slugs side by side.
It looks like the Lyman has a beefier front driving band, which Elmer Keith always considered a formula for accuracy. Barring any other dimensional differences you can detect - such as Lyman doing their usual monkeying around with specs - I'd probably go off that.
Then again, if you aren't actually competing with the thing, I'd probably assume they both shoot better than I can and go with the one that casts easiest with fewest rejects.
WWJMBD?
In the Land of Oz, we cast with wheel weight and 2% Tin, Man.
The Lee shoots great but that skinny front driving band and little dimple on the end just doesn't look right to my eyes. I like the Lyman much better, I crimp it behind the front band so it is basically really short SWC.
Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.
I sincerely believe that the quality of the work done by the user, and quality of alloy, will have a far bigger impact on the accuracy results than the amount of tolerance variation in the two molds. That is, barring obvious defects of manufacture.
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