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Thread: Best Lead remover

  1. #41
    Boolit Buddy
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    I was told by an old smallbore shooter that they used to get the lead out of their barrels with peroxide. He'd plug the chamber and fill the barrel with it. He said it would turn the lead into white powder, and it would pour right out. I have yet to experience leading, so I haven't tried it., but this man was sort of a national legend in competition shooting circles, and I tend to believe him.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinMN View Post
    I forgot about those pipe screens, but your mention of them brought it back. I have some out in the garage I have used just for that purpose, after seeing the Lewis Lead Remover a while back, & I use those brass pipe screens on occasion myself, but my only problem with them is not yet finding a pointy jag to hold them ( I have not looked for one a lot though, as I forget about them since I do not use them often enough) & so I keep dropping them. I find small items hard to pick up and not just those little screens...
    They do work though.
    I think the jags are Tipton? I think I got a set of 10 or 12 on amazon for under 15$ couple years back.
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  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by WheelgunConvert View Post
    I think the jags are Tipton? I think I got a set of 10 or 12 on amazon for under 15$ couple years back.
    Thanks! Found some. On sale too!


    https://www.midwayusa.com/product/10...ass-and-bronze
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  4. #44
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    I have a Lewis Lead Remover but I haven’t used it in years. I read an article by Ross Seyfreid where he recommended a wad of OOOO steel wool and that is what I have used ever since. If I ever have a problem with a revolver forcing cone I might break out the LLR again, but since I stopped buying cast bullets and started making my own I rarely see lead in a barrel.

    If I do then I’m breaking out the steel wool.

    Quote Originally Posted by Thundermaker View Post
    I was told by an old smallbore shooter that they used to get the lead out of their barrels with peroxide. He'd plug the chamber and fill the barrel with it. He said it would turn the lead into white powder, and it would pour right out. I have yet to experience leading, so I haven't tried it., but this man was sort of a national legend in competition shooting circles, and I tend to believe him.
    I don’t know about straight peroxide but there’s something the silencer guys call “the dip” and it’s a mix of hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar. It will eat aluminum like nobody’s business so you’re really only supposed to use it on stainless. It converts the lead to lead acetate, which is HIGHLY toxic and not something that is easily disposed of.
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  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyB1 View Post
    Steel wool will damage a bbl, a LLR or bronze will will not.
    Steel wool is annealed and is softer than a gun barrel.
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  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elkins45 View Post
    ....
    It converts the lead to lead acetate, which is HIGHLY toxic and not something that is easily disposed of.
    TRUE !! It is also absorbed thru bare skin. Can you say instant lead poisoning?....charlie

  7. #47
    Boolit Grand Master

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    A good bore brush and solvent usually work for me. On severe cases I'll use a piece of copper scouring pad. I have bought a few sq ft of copper screen at the hardware store and used a slotted cleaning jag. I think thats pretty much what the Lewis Lead Remover was. My general rule is to use the least aggressive method that works.

  8. #48
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    Let soak....though you can't do that with nickel plated guns. I use a brand new brush--the next size up if I can. (Example: .45 for the .44.) And I buy brushes in bulk. The sharp edges on a new brush really get the lead out. If it's really bad: Kroil. I rarely have lead in the bore from my own loads, though. And when it happens, it's only a sliver.

    I don't recommend "shooting out the lead" from the bore. If it works for you, fine. For me, it always leaves behind some and successive shots just compacts the lead into the grooves to the point even Kroil won't get under it. I've had used guns where I had to scrape it off with a piece of steel just to lift it.

  9. #49
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    Bronze wool, can get it most marine supply stores, like West Marine.
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  10. #50
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  11. #51
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    Time. Let it sit for a week or two. The lead will oxidize and is easily brushed or steel wooled out.

  12. #52
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    The very best lead remover is powder coat your bullets so you don't get leading in the first place.

  13. #53
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    Lead removal cloth. Check Brownell's. Cut patches from it and use like any other cleaning patch. Used in conjunction with Ed's Red, Kroil, PB Blaster, Hoppe's #9 or Hoppe's foaming cleaner, etc. it will clean it out easily. One of the components of the job is elbow grease applied liberally.

  14. #54
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    A product we use as work called Galv-off for for keeping and and removing galvanize (zinc) buildup on punches ,dies and rolling mill tooling works like magic on zinc I've never seen anything work as well since it works on zinc I don't see why it wouldn't work for lead (cousin of zinc)

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  15. #55
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    http://www.big45metalcleaner.com
    Works like a charm on lead and is safe, even to remove rust without damaging bluing. Try it... you’ll like it.
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  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by rfd View Post
    yep, hickok45's de-leading remedy.

    god he just talks on and on,,,

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check