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Thread: Savage 110 and scope suggestions

  1. #61
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    central arkansas
    Posts
    1,315
    If you are referring to the old weaver top mount rings, I've had good luck with them. Just alternate tightening the screws, about a 1/4 turn at a time, they don't move to much. I don't mind if the reticle is off a little bit, but not a lot! Don't think it makes much of a difference.

  2. #62
    Boolit Buddy zymguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Ely MN. (bwcaw)
    Posts
    456


    I tried the 2 piece weaver and some grand slam rings to no success, sooo I went the other way . This is way more tactical looking than my taste usually are . I donít know who made these rings but this is an odd rifle and it really works


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #63
    Boolit Master Bazoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Cecilia, Kentucky
    Posts
    2,404
    Well my silicone oil finally gave out on the trigger/sear. I have now turned to graphite and it's the best so far. I removed the trigger and colored the trigger where the sear rubs, the sear knotch and the sear itself. Been dry fired a good 50 times now and still great. It really made a nice clean trigger. There is a little creep but it's consistent and very smooth.

  4. #64
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Near that little town in Eygpt or SW Wyoming, whichever
    Posts
    94
    I am not a Savage 110 fan. (so I only own two)(I just don't care for the looks) Both of mine will shoot better than I can and better than when I could see well. Mine both date from 1995 to 2005 and are pre-acutrigger. Back in the day you could regularly pick up older 110s for cheep and easily change calibers. Sadly those days are gone(at least in this part of the woods). Been following this thread and like where you are headed with this. One last thing. If you haven't already done it, you might do a deep cleaning of the bore to get all the cooper out. It has been my experience that many/most older hunting rifles have never been deep cleaned.

  5. #65
    Boolit Master Bazoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Cecilia, Kentucky
    Posts
    2,404
    Thanks for the reply Binky.

    Just a couple days ago I shot my first cast loads through it. I don't remember the charge but it was 3031 and a 31141. I made up 5, and figured I'd clean it real well first. To my surprise my bore is pitted. Lots of small pits. I didn't see them when I bought the gun, even though I did look. When I bought it, the bore was a little dusty from setting but no signs of rust and I didn't run a rod down it. It appears it had been rusted sometime previously and then cleaned well and continued to be used before I bought it. I've only shot 2 boxes of factory ammo trough it up till now.

    I did shoot the cast through it and did about 4" at 50 yards. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it yet. I've got my eye on a barrel on ebay, but a 70.00 barrel makes a 300.00 gun worth 300.00. I still want a winchester model 71 and am thinking bout selling it towards that, but I hate to cause of all the effort I have in it. I like the feel of it, the looks not as much.

  6. #66
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    890
    Weaver mounts and Burris Z rings.
    Gun control is not about guns.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check