Lyman lock problem

[stick]

Having a problem with the new Lyman GPR lock.
With the original lock in place everything works good with the lock. I can fire it with the triggers set or unset.
When I place the new replacement lock in the rifle it will fire only in the set position. Unset will not release the hammer.
I had to remove some wood at the brindle area and it is seated good.
Can someone tell me what is my problem exactly?

[curator]

Can someone tell me what is my problem exactly?

Since I don't have the gun here to look at, I can only guess about your problem. However, I have done several lock replacements where set triggers were involved, and I believe you will need to deepen the set-trigger mortice to get the trigger to engage. Since it seems to work when the trigger is "set", I suspect deepening the inletting at the rear may solve your problem. Most likely the sear bar of your new lock sits a bit higher than that of your old lock. You might have someone locally who has experience with M/L rifle building to take a look at it.

[bedbugbilly]

Remove the lock and take a look at the search hole when you pull the trigger without being set. I suspect that what curator is saying is probably the issue and that the triggers need to be insetted just a kosh more. Before removing any wood though - check to see just how high the trigger is moving up to engage the sear.

Set triggers have to be correctly positioned in regards to the sear location - too far forward or too far back will result with issues. These are production rifles so technically, they should all be the same and parts interchangeable - yeah, right!

I once repaired an original many many years ago that was missing the lock. It was a decent half-stock Ohio style with double set triggers. I found a lock that I could fit to the rifle without having to do much and the throw of the lock was perfect for the gun. Only problem, once I had the lock installed - had the same problem as you are experiencing. To solve it, the sear arm needed to be a bit thicker so the bottom of it would contact the trigger. I didn't want to build it up with weld so I took a small piece of steel tubing that would just slide over the arm and I cut it to length and slid it over the sear arm and epoxied in place. It worked perfectly and as long as I owned the rifle - and I shot it quite a bit - there was never an issue with the triggers working correctly afterwards.

If you have to deepen the trigger mortise a bit - just do it a little at a time and try it. You'll get it to working. Good luck and enjoy.