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Thread: Cleaning reloading dies?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    DonMountain's Avatar
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    Cleaning reloading dies?

    After many years of purchasing reloading die sets, and just taking them out of the box and using them, I read the included instruction manual and it says to clean the dies before use. Does everybody else do that? And how often do you clean your dies? And what do you clean them with? Using what procedure? The last used set I bought I just took them out to the shop and soaked them for several hours in gasoline, and then wiped them out pretty well and polished the interior with clean rags. Will this do the job? Anything better?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Wheelguns 1961's Avatar
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    I use hoppes to clean my dies. I generally clean mine when they need it. After cleaning, I make sure to dry them good, especially any powder thru dies. I have had crimp dies and seating dies that slowly build up with a little lead. Since I started powder coating, I have not had this problem anymore.
    Due to the price of primers, warning shots will no longer be given!

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I have a short solid rod in the bench and clean with nylon brushes and patches with a twisting motion. I use a good bore solvent then alcohol. After this a very light coat of imperial sizing die wax to prep the die for use.
    Your method will work but be sure all the gas has evaporated and to pre lube lightly before use.

  4. #4
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    Interesting. I've never bought a new set of dies and cleaned them before use. But I do clean them after use. I have a tub made of a 1 gallon jug like anti-freeze comes in, cut in half lengthwise, half full of kerosene. I disassemble the dies and scrub the parts with a toothbrush. I have several of the pistol bore cleaning brushes that look like miniature bottle brushes, bristles on a twisted wire handle, and use them to clean the inside of the dies.
    I let them drain on some newspaper, then reassemble. I usually don't oil them as they're stored in an environment not conducive to rusting and the kerosene remaining on them is usually enough protection.

  5. #5
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    Wipe them with EEZOX Q-Tips and paper towel. Remember to clean off brass that gets stuck onto the case neck expander plug.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Der Gebirgsjager View Post
    I have a tub made of a 1 gallon jug like anti-freeze comes in, cut in half lengthwise, half full of kerosene. I disassemble the dies and scrub the parts with a toothbrush.
    And where do you get kerosene? When I was a kid my father had a Farmall M tractor that he bought during WW-II that ran on kerosene, and we had a barrel full of it in the yard. But I don't think the gasoline/diesel supplier carries it anymore?

  7. #7
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    I have never cleaned a new die before use.

    I clean dies normally after each major batch I reload. I use a heat gun to melt out the wax in the bullet seater. Then I wipe out the insides and internals of all the dies with Eezox.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonMountain View Post
    And where do you get kerosene? When I was a kid my father had a Farmall M tractor that he bought during WW-II that ran on kerosene, and we had a barrel full of it in the yard. But I don't think the gasoline/diesel supplier carries it anymore?
    You can but K1 Kerosene at Lowes (or Walmart). It is used for indoor heaters and kind of expensive. We also have a gas station that carries it in town.

  9. #9
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    I clean with Ed’s red after use, and coat with LPS#3 for long term storage. Never cleaned a new set though, didn’t see a need.

  10. #10
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    When using LLA you'll get a build up in the seating die. You'll notice that you boolits will be seating a bit deeper.
    Tom
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    Did I ever mention that I hate to trim brass?

  11. #11
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    I just clean my dies like I clean my guns, and with the same tools and solvents.

    Hope this helps.

    Fred
    After a shooting spree, they always want to take the guns away from the people who didn't do it. - William S. Burroughs.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    I have only bought two sets of dies new, both pistol, but I can't recall if I cleaned them or not. Probably. Whenever I clean my dies I generally use remoil and the small end of a weapons brush or a patch/rag on a cleaning loop. I have used a bronze bore brush, but now that I think on it I think I'll not do that for a sizing die anymore and only use nylon. I use a small steel wire brush or a bronze toothbrush on the outside. Coat with remoil and wipe clean.

  13. #13
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    I clean all my new dies - especially sizers to be sure to remove preservative oils and any potential traces of metal filings from manufacture. I use a mild gun cleaner like Hoppes Elite and gun cleaning patches. I've never put traditional lube on a boolit, so I infrequently clean them after the initial.

  14. #14
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    I use brake cleaner to clean dies, have really only had to clean with solvent the ones that I bought used, or those that get tumble lube bullets run through them. PC bullets are clean enough that I can pretty much just take apart the die and wipe, run a bit of rag through or brush.

    Sizing dies get a quick spray with brake clean and wipe before use. Same as molds. But molds get a soap and water wash and rinse post brake clean.
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.

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  15. #15
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    I disassemble and clean with my gun cleaning kit when they need it. Then lightly cover the out side of the dies with Corrosions Preventing Compound (Alox or Boe sheild, or this Marine CPC, they all smell the same and depends on what is in reach). Here in Florida on the edge of the salt water swamp, things rust quick as in a month if not protected and coated with something. All it took was a week for a set of new dies to start to tarnish for me to get religious.

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  16. #16
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    Keep both your dies and your brass spotless and clean.
    I clean my dies out after each use an give them a shot of rust proofing. The rust proofing dries and the dies may not be used for a while. The next time they are used I give them another internal spray and wipe them out again. I have many die sets that have been used 30 to 50 years that still work like new due to this care.
    EDG

  17. #17
    Boolit Master Shawlerbrook's Avatar
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    I also use brake cleaner. Make sure the vent hole on bottleneck sizing die is not plugged.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    I soak my dies in paint thinner first...scrub with a toothbrush (larger dies) and swab it out with paper towels...then follow up with brake cleaner. It takes just 5 minutes to get all the alox off the seater dies. (I remove the seater from the die...obviously)

    redhawk

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  19. #19
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    On new dies I'll take them apart and spray them with a solvent. Usually brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner. Anything that evaporates without leaving anything behind. Then I wipe them out by screwing the corner of a rag up into them followed by the same rag with a little oil on it. I seldom find anything in new dies but I have had enough times finding leftover shavings to make me do all new dies that I buy. After a loading session I'll take them apart and just do the rag deal on them again. If I have a sizing die that scratches cases I'll break out the bore cleaner, bore brushes and bore mops. I have had to use 1200 grit emory cloth occasionally but usually only on used dies that I have purchased.

    Properly used and cared for, dies are pretty maintenance free. I do occasionally get some powder residue or carbon out of sizing dies.

  20. #20
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    I have a couple methods to clean my dies. First, I do clean off the "shipping oil" from new dies. There is a possibility of machining residue in a new die and the oil is usually a heavy oil to prevent rust when the tool is sitting in a warehouse somewhere. I also have a container of "soak" on my bench. It is mineral spirits, Marvels Mystery Oil or ATF and some Kroil. I'll drop my dies in the soak and leave them for a while (days?). Then a light brushing with a tooth brush and/or a bore brush and just a wipe. Residual oil on dies prevent rusting...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check