Title says it all.
Title says it all.
I'm not sure what makes a crimp/seat die "accurate". I have three sets of dies for .357 and they all seat and crimp very well. If you're looking for something to look at, or measure regarding .357 dies (or any straight wall pistol die), look at diameter after sizing. I get different, and consistent, diameters after sizing. That can have some effect on a couple of things. This I found out from testing and measuring. Even that isn't overly significant.
COAL can vary just by the normal manufacturing tolerances of the bullet. Crimp diameter can vary due to case length and or thickness.
Until you tube mic the brass, trim the brass, and sort the bullets by base to meplat or base to ogive measurements, then “most accurate” will be a “depends” answer.
Summary: buy a quality seat/crimp die and have fun!! There will be some variation in the loaded rds, but probably not enough to matter.
I've loaded with several brands and really have not noticed any difference in accuracy. Most of us have at least a little brand loyalty so expect a lot of suggestions. Personally I think a skilled handloader can make decent ammo out of any of them.
I’m using Redding steel dies now since the RCBS cowboy carbide dies were not ironing out the case bulge down near the case head. Also using their profile crimp die and love it.
Most accurate .357 seat/crimp dies?
For accuracy in the finished Handloaded cartridge I prefer Redding non carbide steel sizer dies, and the bullet seating die that either comes with or has been reto fitted with a micrometer seating stem.
Ideally if all my cases were the same length I wouldn’t need it, but since almost every new pistol case I have measured right out of the bag is always shorter than the trim to size. I’m reluctant to trim shorter than the load recipes pressure tested length. So I custom bullet seat up or down a few thou.
For crimping, I like the Redding Profile crimp. I do finger smear Imperial Sizing wax on the case mouth as the instructions say to do. I even lube the case mouth when applying a classic roll crimp, in really does make the crimping easier, smoother and even all around.
I don’t think any company’s dies are better or worse than any others they all just need the operator to learn and adapt to their idiosyncrasies.
My reloading kit sports all the major manufacturers colours, it is a eclectic mix of what I considered best in class for that parts intended purpose.
Well, I have a few 38/357 crimp dies. I have a few "stock" roll crimp dies that came with the Lee and Pacific die sets. I also have Redding Profile Crimp dies that work very well, and I also have a Lee Collet Crimp die that also works quite well. As far as "accurate", the crimp is way down on my list for accuracy measures and I have my "standards" for a revolver crimp that I use on all handloads; case mouth rolled into the crimp groove to just touch the bottom on the groove and for a cannalure, just enough metal rolled into the cannalure to lightly mark the knurl...
My Anchor is holding fast!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |