Casting for Glock17

[nueces5]

thanks to all, I would love to be able to access other brands, such as NOE or IDEAL, but in Argentina we only have one distributor from Lee. And if I do not want to complicate my life with imports, international shipping and bureaucratic customs, I prefer to buy Lee
On the other hand I was already finding out that near my house, there is a powder paint factory for the PC, so I start to find out which is the best product I can buy.

[Elkins45]

I had terrible results with the Lee tumble lube TC bullet until I started dropping them directly from the mold into a bucket of water to harden them. That made all the difference for me. I started a thread about it here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...rformance-ever

My experience with shooting lead in polygonal rifled barrels is that harder bullets are needed to perform well.

[fredj338]

The primary issue with Glocks & lead bullets is proper fit. IMO, a 0.356" bullet will give accuracy & leading issues most of the time, regardless of alloy or lube. I run all my 9mm, regardless of gun, @ 0.357" dia. They shoot fine lubed with just about anything, or coated, which is my preferred method today. Less smoke & crud in the gun, slightly better accuracy. FWIW, coated, I can shoot range scrap bullets in all my GLocks.

[nueces5]

[sigep1764]

Fire it up and tell us what she drops at!

[nueces5]

bad bad bad
I did some tests with lead pipe and threw 353-354
I'm going to have to do them again in time and see what comes out

[sigep1764]

Lead pipe is pretty close to pure lead. Add some tin and that should help fill out. Should drop bigger. A good somewhat expensive source of tin is solder. If you have access to wheel weights, you'd be better served as well.

[nueces5]

Thanks !

[fredj338]

As sige notes, lead pipe is about pure lead, will cast smaller, not even really suitable for 9mm pressures. Lee molds can be all over the place on size so you may have to beagle it to get it to 0.357", my preferred size for any 9mm.

[nueces5]

yes, now I fall into my mistake, I did it in a hurry to try the mold, I did not even have time to heat it well
this weekend I do it better

[Taterhead]

A little tin, a hotter mold and powder coating should get the diameter needed.

[nueces5]

Hello everyone, I made an alloy with 2 parts of lead pipe, one of linotype and I added a little tin. Flux and boolits came out in 356, not so perfect, by parts in 355.5 and in another part 357. But I think it's quite normal.
The Lee furnace was at 6-7 and at one point they began to appear opaque, as if they were aluminum and not lead. I think this is because it was very hot. I lowered the temperature to 3 for a moment while leaving the mold open, after a while they returned to their normal color. I leave a photo where you can see the opaque boolits in the upper left
I still did not choose the size of sizer, I'm going to do lubrication with LLA and with simple lube and see how they work. Probably in the next few weeks I'll start learning how to make powder coating and I'll buy a 357 sizer. But that's going to be another story ...
Thank you very much to all those who have written to me giving me their advice, this is a great forum.

https://ibb.co/WD8DnDm

[randyrat]

The lead pot temp is not as important as the temp of your mold..I can see your bullets started out silvery and then frosty..That is your mold getting hotter. Your bullets will very in size until the mold is up to temp..I throw the bullets back into the pot until they are slightly frosty, then race to the finish line..Throw your sprue nuggets back in before you have too big a pile..Frosty is not a bad thing, just keep things consistent

Stop and scrape the sides and bottom with a DRY wooded stick, scoop it out, do this fast and get back to making bullets and it will keep your pot cleaner. Do this with lead in your mold, fast so your mold doesn't cool too much.

This will keep things like bullet diameter consistent

[MOA]

I have a very early GLOCK 23. It's brass shows the GLOCK Smile with the Factory bbl. I bought a Wolfe replacement bbl as soon as they became available. Big difference. Tighter chamber, much more support, no more GLOCK Smile. Even bought a 9mm conversion bbl, no GLOCK Smile either.

I still put my 40S&W brass through a REDDING "size through die", 9mm doesn't seem to need it.

I favor the LYMAN/IDEAL #356402 TC sized at .356, WLL 50/50. I'm a bit different then most.

I've tried 9mm bullets out of most molds out there, always come back to #356402.

I've only found one TL Bullet that ever worked for me. An N.O.E. TL-432-243-RF.

Yes sir, that's just what I did in 2010 or 11, got two Wolf barrels for my 19's. The factory bbls have never seen cast. I've been running these RCBS 115 RN. So far my Gen 2 likes them ok.

[P Flados]

Some use tumble lube Ok for the 9mm, but most use something else.

Good luck with the 9mm. Many folks get good performance in a 9mm without a lot of effort.

Not me.

I actually did not get Ok performance with anything (including the Lee 120) and powder coat until I got boolit diameter up to 0.3575" and started using an oversize expander plug. I also sort brass and do bullet seating and flare removal as separate steps. Now I can load target or full power with zero leading.

Trying tumble lube it is a good idea, but watch for leading. Your chances for acceptable performance will probably be better with slower powders and with loads that are just enough for slide hold back on any empty magazine. Given how your boolits are dropping, I would try un-sized first. Harder lead also helps (I think the hard lead helps avoid having boolits sized down too much by the case).

I use tumble lube for lots of guns but could not get leading free performance from a Glock 9mm with either the factory or an aftermarket barrel.

[Moonie]

That is a great mold, I have one in every caliber they make it. Runs great in everything I've tried them in. 120gr 9mm, 175gr .401 and the 235gr .452.

[nueces5]

Hello to all, unfortunately on Friday a woman looking at her phone while driving left me the car in the repair shop at least three weeks.
Therefore I do not have to go to shoot the rifle ammunition that I had reloaded ..
So I continued with the preparation of ammo for the G17. I did simple lube and I made a dummy
I went down the boolit in her case until I could get her into the glock barrel chamber, and turn it without any effort.



27,4 mm= 1,078 in

then I disarmed it or measured it.
Measured at the base (which is the part that remained inside the case) .353 in



And ahead of the lube groove .356 in



This is good?
Thank you

[Dusty Bannister]

This is not good. The over all length of the cartridge is good. The crimp is excessive. You may prepare another dummy round. Loosen the lock ring on the bullet seating stem, and loosen the lock ring on the crimp die body. Just loose enough so that you can turn the die and feel some friction on the lock ring. Turn the crimp die body counter-clockwise 2 complete turns so that it will not apply any crimp on the dummy cartridge case. Insert a prepared unprimed case in the shell holder and lower the handle to partly seat the bullet. Check for the OAL. Repeat as you turn the seating stem to seat the bullet deeper into the case. Once the cartridge OAL has been reached, turn the seating stem several turns out of the die body as you do not want it to touch the nose of the bullet during the next step. Now you can turn the crimp die body into the press to begin to apply the crimp. Make small adjustments because these coarse threads make the progress quickly. As you see the flare is being reduced, test the bullet for fit in the barrel chamber (plunk test) as you did before. You might have to repeat making the dummy round if you adjust too much crimp.

You probably have already discovered that if the lock rings are too loose as you adjust the dies, when you tighten them, they move the die in or out from the correct position. Just watch for that and take whatever action is necessary to avoid that.

Once the crimp has been adjusted to your satisfaction and the cartridge passes the plunk test, lower the handle on the press, turn the seating stem down into the die until it contacts the nose of the bullet and tighten the lock ring carefully to maintain the adjustments. May as well make one more to be sure the adjustments have not changed. Good shooting.

Sorry to hear about the car accident. We have a few inches of snow on the ground here and an abundance of idiots that drive carelessly. Dusty

[nueces5]

I use the third die Lee as seater, and Lee's crimp factory as a crimp, I keep moving nuts then
thanks

[Dusty Bannister]

Some have had trouble with adjusting the crimp with the Factory Crimp Die. I do not have that so can not help with that adjustment. Leave the Seating die as it is for now. Dusty