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Thread: 1911 Spare Parts

  1. #21
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Pensacola , FL
    Posts
    48
    I too am not a MIM part fan . Unfortunately many manufacturers use them to reduce production costs . My first introduction to them was a problematic Kimber Gov't size . Short chambered etc . After sending it back 8 times I finally made a Bullseye wadcutter gun out of it . Only things still Kimber are the slide & frame . All internals replaced with EGW parts & hard fitted Kart NM barrel & bushing . Even Caspian's quality control has slipped , Kimber & S&W would rather fix it under warranty than make it right to begin with . Depending on guns intended use dictates how you build the gun . Wadcutter with light target loads is setup different from either a CMP / EIC Harball gun & a duty / carry gun is even more stringent . Only constant is barrel fit & lockup . Springs & mags are cheap & should be changed frequency depends on loads & feeding issues . Hardball & defensive pistols a small radius firing pin stop , full strength recoil & main springs etc . I'd at least keep a spare slide stop pin , firing pin stop , extractor & a couple of spare mags . Most mags changing out springs & followers & tweaking feed lips if needed will keep them running assuming you bought good ones to begin with . I also prefer the GI style recoil guide rod & plugs , FLGR deletes the ability to press cock the weapon in the case you lose use of one arm / hand . I will not put any trigger lighter than NRA legal weight for class & defensive guns 4 1/2lbs period . Polishing parts & painstaking fitting goes a very long way . Stay away from gimmicks like the Spingco recoil rods etc . 1911's will usually give years of dependable reliable service if they're built right with quality parts . Like anything mechanical parts do wear out & / or fail . Just like your car good lubrication & a good maintanance program will reduce failures as will an annual full strip / deep cleaning & careful inspection of all parts . Many times you can spot a potential problem before it becomes a critical failure . If one is not willing to do so get a Glock as 1991's aint for you .

  2. #22
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Lenore, WV
    Posts
    2,167
    I would keep springs(recoil,mainspring,firing pin and sear). I would keep an extractor and a firing pin stop. All other parts probably will not fail suddenly and give you time to order before replacing.

  3. #23
    Had a sear break right down the middle and the gun still fired but bought a used Safari Arms with a bunch of bad stuff, rear of firing pin was peened enough to jam in the stop, bbl bushing cracked, bad disconnector but eventually I got it right but the easiest way to fix a broken gun is a New York reload, grab another gun.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    gardners pa.
    Posts
    3,214
    navy arms imported the argentine 1911's we bought a box full of the worst ones for rebuild. the first thing to replace was the recoil spring and barrel bushing some of the other springs were bad also.out of 12 guns had to squeeze one slide. one bad trigger and one bad hammer.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    614
    On my single well used 1911 I had to replace the extractor as the original had worn to the point it wouldn't consistently eject a case. Other than that it's been running fine.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    787
    Spare extractor
    Spare firing pin
    firing pin plate.in truth after the first one was so sloppy I fitted an oversized one.
    Spare slide stop
    Spare stock screws
    Firing pin springs in the weight you are using according and what power level your at and maybe a pound up or down. spare wrench for barrel bushing.

    Really lubricate the slides, bushing and generally take care of what you have.Frank

  7. #27
    Moderator

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    The Pacific NorthWet
    Posts
    2,015
    No matter HOW much you know, it's never a bad idea to "sanity check" your thoughts with other knowledgeable folks - I find I usually learn something that way. Better to learn from others' experience AND ones' own, than just from ones' own.

    boatbum101 - Put the sights against your belt and shove the pistol away from the hammer for 1-handed cycling the action, works even wiht a full length guide rod; Tho I don't have any of those, these are set up for SD only.

    Backup gun, yeppers.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check