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Thread: Barrel break in with jacketed or cast?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    817
    Quote Originally Posted by Static line View Post
    I know that but why add to it? At 71 years old,I have learned a few things.It will be a lot easier to remove a little bit of copper fouling then a lot.Does that make better sense now?
    That's why I like to do the break in by removing the copper and smoothing the throat.

    And, copper will not ruin the barrel. An accumulation will just ruin accuracy until it is removed.

    You do NOT want copper in a barrel that you shoot cast. It just means you have lead and copper to remove when accuracy goes bad.

    Removing copper is not that big a deal. Just get a good solvent and apply as directed. Some take longer than others but they all work eventually. Even a badly fouled barrel can be cleaned in a couple of hours with minimal work.
    Last edited by charlie b; 01-14-2019 at 10:57 PM.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    3,737
    People are in such a hurry that they never learn one of the secrets to removing copper. That is time. Even the very old mild Hoppe's solvent will remove copper if you give it time. Once treated let your barrel sit for 2 or 3 days then clean again. Repeat until clean even if it takes a month. I can remove copper with just Hoppes and patches. It just takes patience.
    EDG

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    817
    That's why I like KG12. Treating a barrel takes an hour, even on horrible fouling.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check