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Thread: Barrel bluing Question

  1. #1
    Boolit Master Randy C's Avatar
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    Barrel bluing Question

    I received my rifle back from C Sharps they put a new Krieger 45-70 Barrel on, It was a blank they chambered and turned it to fit my sharps .
    I don't know how or why but there is a stain on the blueing, if I oil the barrel down it appears to go away a few days later it will show back up.
    It looks like a dirty plastic bag or rag was wrapped around the barrel when in the blueing stage and I think its on the surface.
    I was told to take some fourott steel wool and some Hoppe's 9, it should take the stain off.

    They test fired the barrel I can see the copper it runs the full length of the rifling, I have a bore scope-should i clean it out? I shoot and compete with this rifle every month. I have a bottle of Sweets I shoot cast 16/1 with GOEX
    Should I clean the barrel with soap and water before using the sweets I know you're not supposed to mix chemicals it has Hoppe's number nine in the barrel now.
    Last edited by Randy C; 01-12-2019 at 01:49 PM.

  2. #2
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    Barrel bluing Question

    I moved your post from the Cast pic of the month section.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  3. #3
    Boolit Master 5Shot's Avatar
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    You will have to get the copper out or it will lead real bad. As for the bluing, I'd send it back.
    If you live on the razor's edge and slip, you will die in two pieces

  4. #4
    Boolit Master Randy C's Avatar
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    Thank you its a 100$ shipping each way, I don't want to be with out this rifle again i shoot it a lot. I could just as well buy another barrel. I will stew over this for awhile. I would rather shoot it like it is. It is bad under the hand grip i can test it there.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master 5Shot's Avatar
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    I would think the shipping should be covered by C Sharps...you didn't mess up the bluing.
    If you live on the razor's edge and slip, you will die in two pieces

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

    jcren's Avatar
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    Wax maybe? Try going the other way and cleaning with a wax/grease remover.
    "In God we trust, in all others, check the manual!"

  7. #7
    Boolit Master Randy C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcren View Post
    Wax maybe? Try going the other way and cleaning with a wax/grease remover.
    That's a good Idea,, I Cerosafe my chamber and barrel it come out at 45.85 I sized last years bullets at 459 that's why they didn't fit the chamber on this barrel. The chamber casting's sat over night and mic out at 46.00 it cool down stairs
    Last edited by Randy C; 01-14-2019 at 11:07 AM.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    If it were me and my rifle I would do several things. First, call the company that did the barrel and see what type of bullet they test fired with and what type of powder also. If it was smokeless and a jacketed hunting round then you will most certainly have to get all and I mean all the copper fouling out or as noted, it will foul terribly! Once the coper is out I would look at the barrel with a bore scope to get a feel for the surface and how rough it is. You might have to spend a good bit of time lapping and polishing the barrel or have a local gunsmith do that for you. Did you supply the barrel, if so shame on you for not looking at it's internals closely before you sent it. If it was already rough you could have requested them to polish the bore and grooves for you are part of the deal? Once you get the copper out AND the bore polished then shoot it and use a blow tube every shot, wipe every 5 or so or however you were doing it before. Sometime in there I would slug the barrel to see what the actual bore is and the depth of the grooves as it might be tighter than your original barrel or heaven fore bid looser! Good luck!
    John

  9. #9
    Boolit Master BigAlofPa.'s Avatar
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    I reblued some guns. Quickly learned you must wash the barrel off with hot soapy water between coats. Try clearing the area with hot soapy water rinse and dry and oil. It's worth a try.

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master

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    What ever cleaner you try test it on a hidden area first, some cleaners will remove bluing along with the stain.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    Having blued a bunch of guns in my time, I'll take a shot at this. First, prior to bluing, the parts (barrel) must be thoroughly degreased and cleaned. If a spot was missed, you'll never get it to match because the finish (bluing) reacts differently to the dirty and clean metal. The only solution is to re-blue the entire barrel, with special attention to cleaning/degreasing before it goes into the bluing tanks.

    That having been said, I would demand that the company doing the defective bluing job re-blue the barrel. As already stated, your dissatisfaction is the result of their shoddy workmanship, and they should stand good for the return shipping. If (your choice) you can't stand to part with the gun again to have the situation corrected, then you'll have to live with it as is, but at that point you and the company share the blame.

    I remember a customer, about age 19, who brought his abused rifle into my shop and wanted it re-blued. I did so, and about 2 months later he came back with the rifle which had large rust spots all over it. Turned out that he had gone hunting in the rain, and then hadn't wiped it down afterward. Sadly, "oil" seems to be a word missing from the Oregon vocabulary. He told me that his dad said that the bluing job was defective, or the gun wouldn't have rusted. At first I was royally P.O.ed, but then realized that neither he nor his dad understood what bluing was all about. So while he was still there in the shop I phoned his dad, and explained all about bluing to them, and advised them that I would re-blue the rifle, which I did do, but would not do so again. Never saw the rifle or the kid again -- I think he went off to college. The moral to the story -- the customer is always right -- no matter how wrong he is.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master Randy C's Avatar
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    Thanks everybody for the help it's fixed

    I cleaned it yesterday with a CRC none Chlorine cleaner it sat over night it looks almost perfect, I think it was a wax of some kind, metal has pours and i believe it was in the pours. I'm going to oil it and call it fixed. I bet some one new there did it and tried to hide it. Its hard to get good help. C Sharps has one of the best reputations.

    I called them they would of stood behind it. He told me It was shot twice with a jacked bullet they proof every rifle built.
    I am willing to bet whoever did it sprayed it with a cleaner Then oiled it to cover their tracks or thought it was fixed, when the barrel and stock is oiled you don't see it but if it sets overnight it will come back especially if it's inside of a case the case will soak the oil up that's why it look so bad when I got it back. It was in a $500 Pelican case. Made for traveling and shipping. I shipped it to them in the case and the old barrel looks good.

    I'm going to keep it in a sock when its in a case This is a nice rifle. This is a old pic of it. I have Hoke sights on it now.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Randy C; 01-14-2019 at 11:01 AM.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
    Chill Wills's Avatar
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    I'm glad you worked through the fix without sending it back. I agree, C Sharps IS a good outfit. Sometimes stuff happens like you said.

    Nice rifle by the way!
    Chill Wills

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
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LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check