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Thread: Release agent?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master bosterr's Avatar
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    Release agent?

    I thought I ordered an Accra Glass kit from Brownells and instead I ordered just the resin and hardener without the release agent. Instead of ordering that by itself, what's a fool proof release agent I could use instead? I really don't want to glue my Rem. 700 into my brand new fiberglass stock.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Nobade's Avatar
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    "Quemadmoeum gladis nemeinum occidit, occidentis telum est."

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I have used pam ( messy) car wax or floor wax. several coats. It used to be the way to do it, bed and tune the rifle then glue it into stock. This was done in High Power, Long range and bench rest guns. It is a good idea to test the release agent before 2 pieces of steel coat one mix a little bedding agent and apply lightly clamp with rubber bands or weight. let cure and see how it comes apart.

  4. #4
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    AZ Pete's Avatar
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    Johnson paste wax works very well. I no longer mess with the Brownells release agent.


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  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ Pete View Post
    Johnson paste wax works very well. I no longer mess with the Brownells release agent.


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    Same here. The JPW is much easier to apply and in my opinion works better.
    Some people live and learn but I mostly just live

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

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    I've used johnsons paste wax on a few.

  7. #7
    Boolit Mold
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    I've also have had good results with Johnson's Paste Wax. I've used at least 3 coats buffing the first two.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy Ateam's Avatar
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    I bed with devcon, and have always used JPW.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master bosterr's Avatar
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    The vast majority voted for Johnson's Paste Wax so that's what I'll go with. Thank you all for your help.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Shoe polish

  11. #11
    Boolit Master Nobade's Avatar
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    Funny that shoe polish and floor wax is preferred over something specifically designed as a release agent for epoxy bedding rifles. I'll never understand some of this logic.
    "Quemadmoeum gladis nemeinum occidit, occidentis telum est."

  12. #12
    Boolit Mold
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    Don't forget to fill holes and voids with modeling clay where you don't want the glass to go. I like to thin paste wax with paint thinner and paint it on to be sure you get into every tiny area.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy Ateam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nobade View Post
    Funny that shoe polish and floor wax is preferred over something specifically designed as a release agent for epoxy bedding rifles. I'll never understand some of this logic.
    It works, Its cheap, its readily available.... Whats not to understand?

    Thats like saying you cant understand why anyone casts with anything other than lyman #2 because that is what midway sells as "the" casting alloy.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master Nobade's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ateam View Post
    It works, Its cheap, its readily available.... Whats not to understand?

    Thats like saying you cant understand why anyone casts with anything other than lyman #2 because that is what midway sells as "the" casting alloy.
    The real stuff is also cheap, easily available, and always works. The bullet alloy isn't good logic though. #2 works for some applications but not others. You use what is best for your particular situation.
    This whole bedding thing has become a running joke at the shop. It's like the guy who wants a custom rifle to win some type of competition, but refuses to get the caliber everybody else is winning with because he wants to be different. Then complains when he can't win.
    I can't count how many rifles I've had to get out of the stock and rebed because somebody was bound and determined that they were not going to use rifle bedding epoxy and release agent designed to work with it. But yes, floor wax will work most of the time. And you can frost a cake with peanut butter but that doesn't mean it is the best choice for the job.
    "Quemadmoeum gladis nemeinum occidit, occidentis telum est."

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I have used marine tex ( it was popular for awhile). Devcon Plastic steel putty still has a following. Acra glass gel, micro bed, and Bisonite. Of these only the acra glass and bisonte comes with release agent. I keep going back to the Bisonite steel bed epoxy. A little harder to mix ( 10-1 ratio) but is a very hard solid bedding when done. Its preferred when bedding the garands and M14 M1As with limited bedding area.
    A few weeks ago I made a little mould for a piece to be poured from JB Weld. Coated the mould with 2 coats Johnsons paste wax letting dry between coats as this has always worked in the past for release with JBs. The new batch of JB bonded to the mould. So either something has changed with the JBs or my can of Johnsons Paste Wax. Why I recommend you test it before going whole hog.

    At work we had a couple new epoxies in that would bond thru oil and grease. How they did with waxes I don't know.

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy pertnear's Avatar
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    I only use Johnson Paste Wax..... I've had a few "sorta-stucks" in the past with other stuff, but I KNOW JPW works! Use plumber's putty to fill any voids in the receiver.

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  17. #17
    Boolit Master Nobade's Avatar
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    Marine Tex is a good bedding epoxy. It is also quite toxic and is a strong skin sensitizer. The others are more or less decent for bedding rifles, though they all shrink too much when they cure. The acraglas gel is nylon, and doesn't fully crosslink for around 10 years depending on temperature.
    Grease can be a very good adhesion promoter! I still remember a Sako deluxe stock that had to be removed with a hatchet when somebody tried to use silicone grease as a release agent.
    "Quemadmoeum gladis nemeinum occidit, occidentis telum est."

  18. #18
    Boolit Mold
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    I like the spray stuff (AcraRelease?) that Brownells sells. I have also had great results with Hornady One Shot Case Lube. A spray release agent is so easy to use. As a previous poster said, however, stay away from PAM. You will never get the stock cleaned up.

  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master


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    As mentioned, fill the holes with modeling clay. I then apply a thin coat of LLA and let it dry. After the bedding is complete it cleans off with bore solvent easily.
    Larry Gibson

    “Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
    ― Nikola Tesla

  20. #20
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    Some tips on bedding. On a fiberglas stock, it helps to roughen up the area that is being bedded with a dremel. Use vinegar and paper towels to wipe off excess acragel. If the barreled action is hard to remove after it sets, put a towel on your bench, and give it a good whack of the barrel ahead of the stock to free the metal.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check