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Thread: Favorite Cartridge/Ammo Tray

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    jimkim's Avatar
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    I have two of the old style RCBS blocks. They work pretty good, but for handgun I mostly use empty 40 S&W Speer plastic trays. Most eveything I load fits in them. I like them because they are smaller than the rcbs trays, and I can fit four(more if I move a few things) on either side of my press.

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  2. #22
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    This one has worked well for me. Only been using it for 43 years; waiting to see how it works out.

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    Even for the 300 Win Mag I got for Christmas, the brass will fit in the slots; but they are snug.
    Mustang

    "In the beginning... the patriot is a scarce man, and brave and hated and scorned. When his cause succeeds, the timid join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." - Mark Twain.

  3. #23
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    I have a couple dozen of the ones Midway sells that are caliber specific, but I wait for them to go on sale before I buy them. When they had the Winchester branded wooden trays on close-out for less than $3.00 each, I bought a bunch of those, too. Just watch the sales, since the caliber specific trays are hard to beat for ease of use.

    Hope this helps.

    Fred
    After a shooting spree, they always want to take the guns away from the people who didn't do it. - William S. Burroughs.

  4. #24
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    About 50 years ago I started with a red MTM Universal Loading Tray. No complaints but after 50 years it was getting a bit shop worn so I decided to get a new one.
    After looking at all on the market I ended up with a new MTM Universal Loading Tray...why ? I couldn't find anything better and it cost only $5.23..... I couldn't make one that cheap. Nice wood is pricey besides the last thing I need is 12 to 15 caliber specific loading blocks, I do a lot of reloading on the move and one or two MTM's cover everything .

    Turns out I now use both of them.... I should have gotten a second years ago .
    Gary
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  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy BigAlofPa.'s Avatar
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    I have an RCBS one i picked up at walmart for 10 bucks.

  6. #26
    Boolit Man MrHarmless's Avatar
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    Something is terribly satisfying about dropping a well honed forstner bit into a piece of nice hardwood and getting a perfectly sized hole. Yeah you potentially need multiple loading blocks for multiple calibers, but they can be so simple and elegant.

  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy
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    I use the Stalwart wood blocks as sold by Sinclair.I got most of mine from Midway when they still stocked them.I've also used various plastic blocks and have made a few from scrap wood.They all work but I find the Stalwart blocks to be more convenient.

  8. #28
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  9. #29
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    The problem I've had with homemade case loading blocks is uneven hole bottoms, even with a Forstner bit.

    A modified Spade (point ground smaller) was better, but not quite perfect. A 118 degree bit, still not perfect.

    D'oh... just drill all the way through, then glue a thin sheet of hardboard/masonite to the bottom. Presto! Nice flat hole bottoms (unless you use too much glue).
    I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
    My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
    The BHN Deformation Formula, and why I don't use it.
    How to find and fix sizing die eccentricity problems.
    Do you trust your casting thermometer?
    A few musings.

  10. #30
    Boolit Mold
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    I'm planning on 3d printing some when I get back to school. My friend already has printed a couple and really likes them for his 223/300 blackout. You can find many different designs online for your individual cases. Just download the files and plug them into the printer.

  11. #31
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    The old Herters loading blocks I bought in the 60s are still working great.
    I have the regular nd short versions...dale

  12. #32
    Boolit Master Ole Joe Clarke's Avatar
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    Since I started loading 9 mm in larger quantities, I find a shallow bowl or similar container works better. I use the Lee Classic Turret and the aftermarket rod that make the turret turn clock wise. A container that holds 250 to 500 loaded shells works much better than a loading block.

    Have a blessed day,

    Leon

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ole Joe Clarke View Post
    Since I started loading 9 mm in larger quantities, I find a shallow bowl or similar container works better. I use the Lee Classic Turret and the aftermarket rod that make the turret turn clock wise. A container that holds 250 to 500 loaded shells works much better than a loading block.
    Case loading blocks are primarily used by batch mode reloaders. I use them extensively for rifle reloading, and not at all for my progressive handgun reloading. Akro bins catch my progressive reloads.

    My favorites were the MidwayUSA wooden blocks of some years ago, but they have long been out of production. I still use them, mainly for storage of rifle brass batches in their various stages of prep. The Stalwart looks like a worthy and affordable successor, I'm glad I found this thread and that product, I might just order some.

    My new favorite is the Lyman Bleacher Block, which is what I use on the bench (as opposed to storage). Since the case height varies per row, they're not good for batch case charging, which I no longer do (I feel that there is less chance of a double charge by avoiding batch charging.) I have several presses set up in a row for assembly line style reloading, and it is easier to vary charge weights, and/or one or two die settings, when doing many small batches for accuracy comparisons.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
    My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
    The BHN Deformation Formula, and why I don't use it.
    How to find and fix sizing die eccentricity problems.
    Do you trust your casting thermometer?
    A few musings.

  14. #34
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Some tricks to making loading blocks. Once the size and number of holes are decided draw out on paper and use as a template. copy it cut out and rubber cement to material. You can now drill the holes and finish the edges rubbing the paper off when done. A rail clamped to the dill press table aids maintaining alignment. A forester bit does a great job cutting flat bottomed holes and the center point is almost big enough for a high primer to still sit flat and not spill over. A flat ground drill works but requires a second operation. Drilling a thru hole works with a thin backer glued on. For dishwaser safe plexiglass glued together or if all rimless cases spaced apart on rails will make a good solid block. I have a few made from lexan 1/2" scraps that are great but lexan is expensive. Buddy made some from the sink cut out from his corean counter tip that were very nice

  15. #35
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    I have two different brands of Forstner bits, and neither leave a flat bottomed hole. Maybe I just don't have the right brand.
    I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
    My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
    The BHN Deformation Formula, and why I don't use it.
    How to find and fix sizing die eccentricity problems.
    Do you trust your casting thermometer?
    A few musings.

  16. #36
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    Kevin Rohrer's Avatar
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    I use the Franklins. Blue in-color, they each have a really nice chart on the back of each telling you what calibers fit in the different numbered trays. Relatively inexpensive ($7 each on Amazon), they will last forever, and stack neatly. My stack of them is 10" high.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Member: Orange Gunsite Family, NRA-Life, Varmint Hunter's Assn, ARTCA, American Legion, & the West Branch Gun Club.

    Caveat Emptor: Do not trust Cavery Grips/American Gripz from Clayton, NC. He will rip you off.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by Walter Laich View Post
    since I hit my empty cases with spray lube before sizing I like the kind the non-wood kind. Wife isn't crazy about having them in dishwasher about twice a year.

    have some wooden ones I made as well as a couple my Dad made in late 50s.
    Does the plastic hold up with dishwasher temperatures?

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check