MidSouth Shooters SupplyTitan ReloadingRotoMetals2Repackbox
Lee PrecisionWidenersLoad DataReloading Everything
Inline Fabrication
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 40 of 40

Thread: Thinking about a Mini Lathe

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,457
    No on the industrial machines the pin is in the coupling between the gear box and lead screw, On our 14 X 60 monarch lathes it was a 3/16 pin from leaded steel on these small lathes that would be sized down to maybe .020 dia. I know of one high school shop the instructor replaced them with deralin pins. Students sheared a lot more but a lot less broken tooling and other damage. Those plastic gears aren't that expensive usually, and are a good safety.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Wilmington NC
    Posts
    1,441
    Plastic gears:

    The set comes with two metal 20 teeth gears (the smallest). My normal setup us to run these driving 80 teeth gears to get the slowest available feed.

    I have inadvertantly driven the carriage into the locked down tailstock a couple of times.

    The machine bogged down and I turned it off or disengaged the feed. There was no damage, the plastic gears were strong enough for these brief overload conditions.

    During normal turning, the gear loading will be very low.

    The plastic gears should last a lifetime unless there is excessive abuse.
    Last edited by P Flados; 01-10-2019 at 11:25 PM.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Wilmington NC
    Posts
    1,441
    Metric Lead screw:

    When you set up gears to do single point threading, the lead screw and the gears combine to give you your options for pitch.

    For single point threading, the normal "turning gears" (slow advance for the carriage) are removed and specific gear combinations are installed to get the desired thread pitch. Note that the gear change out is tedious process with lots of "trial and error" adjusting to get them to engage properly. With a metric lead screw, the normal gear set does not even get real close to standard imperial pitches. If you get a 21 tooth gear or a 63 tooth gear (these can be hard to find) you can get pretty close most of the time.

    If you plan to do lots of single point threading for imperial threads, I would not only get a lathe with an imperial lead screw, I would get one with a threading indicator (too complex to discuss at this point). Single point threading is real handy for larger sizes, but is not needed for the small stuff where a good tap and die set will take care of what you need.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    3,702
    Quote Originally Posted by GregLaROCHE View Post
    NI’ve been thinking about one of the imports. Which one is the best bet? I’m in the thousand dollar range, but would like to spend less of course and could go a little higher if it would make a real difference.

    There’s not a lot of detail that I can find on those for sale. Such as how long a piece you can turn or the diameter.

    I also wonder about the power of the motors. 500 or 600 watts is not that much?

    With a drill chuck in the tail stock how big can your work be?

    What to do? What to buy?

    Thanks
    Within your price limit that little lathe looks ok - the 38 mm spindle hole will get you out of a lot of trouble (or into it )
    I bought a small lathe several years ago with a bed long enough to work a barrel (just) but the through hole is only 22mm - I have done a lot of work with it - great for small jobs - I inherited a bigger machine last year but still use the small machine at least as much (more often).

    You will likely spend at least the cost of the lathe on tooling and bits n pieces over a period of time
    The low power just means small cuts - stay with sharpenable carbide tools rather than tungsten tip stuff - I would buy a small cheap grinder (smaller the better) and a dedicated wheel for grinding carbide tools.

    you need
    Dial indicator
    6 inch digital caliper - you will use that a lot
    a small micrometer (up to one inch)
    centre drills
    a decent live centre
    good quality drill chuck (keyed not keyless) with the correct MT spindle for your lathe tailstock and dont use it for anything else!
    a good quality set of drills - high speed steel - up to half inch

    things I have never used on my small lathe
    knurling tool
    parting off tool (hacksaw does fine)

    Stuff I use way more than I ever imagined
    C20 ER20A 100L Collet Chuck Holder Straight Shank for CNC Milling
    14Pcs ER20 1/16"-1/2" Spring Collet Set For CNC Milling Lathe Tool Workholding
    This setup was an impulse buy - cant believe how indispensible they have become - holding small parts - bullet shells - can grip a cast bullet - turn it - not leave a mark on it. --- all up was under fifty bucks AU$.
    Last edited by indian joe; 01-11-2019 at 01:20 AM.

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy McFred's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    I'm sure they'll listen to "Reason"
    Posts
    341
    Whatever you do get a quick change tool post (Aloris, Phase II, whatever) in either OXA or AXA size. They're worth their weight in gold IMO.

    I prefer steel/iron to plastic when it comes to gear train. Learn from others' mistakes to prevent crashing the machine and you'll never have to worry about what's the machine's weakest link.

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master


    GregLaROCHE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Southern France by way of Interior Bush Alaska
    Posts
    5,286
    I ordered a lathe today. A 10x14 with a 550 watt motor. Now I am looking at accessories. I think I will need a four jaw chuck. I see some advertised, but they say self centering. I thought the object of four jaws was so you can adjust it. What are they talking about? If I want to get a larger one, do I neeed an adapter plate. Also, how do I know I am getting a good quality drill chuck for the tail stock?

    Thanks

  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,457
    The self centering 4 jaws are used more on wood lathes. You will more than likely need a mount plate for the new chuck Look at bison, Buck. Also if the are any used equipment vendors near you check with them. As to drill chucks, Jacobs and Albright (sp) have been standards in industry for years. The chuck and mount may also be sold separately. You will need to know what morse taper your machine has in the tail stock. For tool posts a good quick change unit with several holders is handy and useable.

  8. #28
    Banned
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    2,725
    I bought a Harbor Freight 7x10 about 4 months ago. With 25% discount with tax etc., I got it for just under $450. I wish I had known that they had d 7x14 for $50 more. The real working size of a 7x10 is about 4". It is big enough for making reloading dies but THAT IS ABOUT IT. I got a 3/4" chuck for the tail stock so...as long as the bit is not too long, I can fit a lot in there. The head stock has a 3" 3 jaw chuck. Again, big enough for reloading dies but the the through hole is only 5/8" in the head stock so, very limited on what can be long. Otherwise, it sure beats not having a lathe. Good to learn on. Fun. But again very limited.

  9. #29
    Boolit Grand Master


    GregLaROCHE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Southern France by way of Interior Bush Alaska
    Posts
    5,286
    Are you sure the whole is too small in the head stock and not just the whole in the chuck? I understood it was the whole in the chuck not the head stock that was limiting. If you got a bigger chuck, you could pass a larger diameter through it.

  10. #30
    Banned
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    2,725
    Quote Originally Posted by ulav8r View Post
    I used soap and a brush to lather my face for shaving. Lather has no place in shooting, reloading, or machine work. A lathe, as mentioned by other respondents, is used for turning and threading, not lathering, lathing, or latheing.
    As I was lathering my face, my lathe was spinning and the lath on the wall was beginning to fall off. I got so frustrated I got up and said "see you lather... dude"

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eureka MT
    Posts
    2,513
    I bought one of the HF 7x10s a few years ago as a return for about $240. It was missing the gear set which cost about $25 for the whole set. Shortly after, I bought a 14" bed and a 5" 4 jaw chuck from Little Machine shop. The 14" bed doubles the usable work space. The 5" 4 jaw is a bit much weight so I would recommend a 4" instead. The through hole in the head stock is around 3/4" but can be opened up to .812 or a bit more which is big enough for a TC fat barrel. The stock 3 jaw chuck only has a 5/8" hole. I have a set of carbide tool holders but much prefer HSS tools

  12. #32
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    North central Ohio/Roane County, W.Va.
    Posts
    1,426
    Too a certain point, your chuck may only be a couple inches thick and that would be the limit of length to match the hole in your chuck. The spindle diameter is your limiting factor. Whatever the ID of the spindle is your maximum size. You definitely should look into a four jaw independent chuck. A self centering (scroll) four jaw chuck is a real nifty thing to have if you turn tubing or a lot of square stock but it's advantage is in speed, you can do the same with an independent it just takes more time for the set up and the scroll isn't even close to being as versatile as the independent. If your new to the game, dialing a four jaw in is the first thing you may want to practice. When I started, I couldn't dial in a four jaw if it meant going to jail. A friend suggest that I only used a four jaw chuck until I understood the concept. For 6 months I used nothing else and now even square stock is about a two minute job.
    “Let us endeavor so to live that when we come to die even the undertaker will be sorry.”
    ― Mark Twain
    W8SOB

  13. #33
    Boolit Master Randy C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    North Dakota
    Posts
    740
    GregLaRoache I'm curious where and what kind of lathe did you buy I would like to read up on it. You said it was A 10x14 with a 550 watt motor.
    Thanks Randy C

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    3,702
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Michel View Post
    Too a certain point, your chuck may only be a couple inches thick and that would be the limit of length to match the hole in your chuck. The spindle diameter is your limiting factor. Whatever the ID of the spindle is your maximum size. You definitely should look into a four jaw independent chuck. A self centering (scroll) four jaw chuck is a real nifty thing to have if you turn tubing or a lot of square stock but it's advantage is in speed, you can do the same with an independent it just takes more time for the set up and the scroll isn't even close to being as versatile as the independent. If your new to the game, dialing a four jaw in is the first thing you may want to practice. When I started, I couldn't dial in a four jaw if it meant going to jail. A friend suggest that I only used a four jaw chuck until I understood the concept. For 6 months I used nothing else and now even square stock is about a two minute job.
    I'll back that - I started with an old lathe that only had a four jaw - hated it to start off but it MADE me learn setup - a good 3 jaw is way quick but makes you lazy.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    4,612
    Talking about lazy I ran a variety of lathes for 5 plus years.
    An old geezer I worked with hated changing back an forth between 3 jaw and 4 jaw chucks on his 13" lathe. Those chucks were 10" and the 3 jaw was really heavy. He just left the 4 jaw on it and indicated everything in. I did the same some but I liked running small stuff in 5C collets so off came the 4 jaw. I was in my early 20s so no big deal then. I would hate to pick up a 10" chuck today.
    I usually chucked a piece of 1" pipe through the chuck so it acted as a handle on both sides of the chuck. Turn the back of the chuck so the pipe slides into the spindle bore. Makes the job much safer. You get to keep all your fingers.
    EDG

  16. #36
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    3,702
    Quote Originally Posted by EDG View Post
    Talking about lazy I ran a variety of lathes for 5 plus years.
    An old geezer I worked with hated changing back an forth between 3 jaw and 4 jaw chucks on his 13" lathe. Those chucks were 10" and the 3 jaw was really heavy. He just left the 4 jaw on it and indicated everything in. I did the same some but I liked running small stuff in 5C collets so off came the 4 jaw. I was in my early 20s so no big deal then. I would hate to pick up a 10" chuck today.
    I usually chucked a piece of 1" pipe through the chuck so it acted as a handle on both sides of the chuck. Turn the back of the chuck so the pipe slides into the spindle bore. Makes the job much safer. You get to keep all your fingers.
    good common sense tip !! thanks

  17. #37
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    60
    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    With a lathe the description gives the sizes a 13 X 40 Lathe is a machine with 13" swing over bed and 40" between centers A 7-10 is 7" swing and 10" between centers. .
    Wrong. The First number is the DIAMETER of the workpiece the lathe can handle, NOT the swing over the ways.

  18. #38
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    NC Arkansas
    Posts
    1,394
    Quote Originally Posted by targetfreak View Post
    Wrong. The First number is the DIAMETER of the workpiece the lathe can handle, NOT the swing over the ways.
    Depends on the manufacturer. US manufacturers define the diameter as the swing, most Europeans use the center height as swing. That means that the European 5 inch swing is the same as a US 10 swing. Then there is the fact that most list the swing as an even inch or centimeter dimension when the actual swing is fractionally larger. A 10 inch swing lathe might actually require the a 10 diameter workpiece be exactly 10 inches and no more when another 10" lathe from a different manufacturer might accept a 10 1/4" workpiece.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Outside Rolla, Missouri
    Posts
    2,170
    I don't know a lot about lathes and tooling nor do I have a lot of knowledge as a lathe operator but, I wouldn't want to be without my 9 X 19 Grizzly. I can do anything I need to do as far as turning brass which is exactly why I bought it...to make cases I couldn't ordinarily make. And, I've learned some other things along the way as far as turning harder materials. However, I'm still a hack at it.
    "In general, the art of government is to take as much money as possible from one class of citizens and give it to another class of citizens" Voltaire'

    The common virtue of capitalism is the sharing of equal opportunity. The common vice of socialism is the equal sharing of misery

    NRA Benefactor 2008

  20. #40
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    3,702
    Quote Originally Posted by sharps4590 View Post
    I don't know a lot about lathes and tooling nor do I have a lot of knowledge as a lathe operator but, I wouldn't want to be without my 9 X 19 Grizzly. I can do anything I need to do as far as turning brass which is exactly why I bought it...to make cases I couldn't ordinarily make. And, I've learned some other things along the way as far as turning harder materials. However, I'm still a hack at it.
    If you are making useable brass cases - you no longer a hack!

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check