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Thread: Lee Dippers

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    I too make my own out of spent cases, copper wire, and solder. They work superbly. . . once they're made.

    However, when you consider that the set of dippers Lee currently offers is only $10, I would gladly spend the $10 rather than make one homemade dipper IF the set came in the right increments.

    The problem with homemade dippers comes when working up a load. I make the homemade dipper once I have a load developed. But man, if they could produce it for $10 it would be a no-brainer.

    For those who expressed interest, I think I'll start a thread on group-buys.

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Black Jaque Janaviac View Post
    I too make my own out of spent cases, copper wire, and solder. They work superbly. . . once they're made.

    However, when you consider that the set of dippers Lee currently offers is only $10, I would gladly spend the $10 rather than make one homemade dipper IF the set came in the right increments.

    The problem with homemade dippers comes when working up a load. I make the homemade dipper once I have a load developed. But man, if they could produce it for $10 it would be a no-brainer.

    For those who expressed interest, I think I'll start a thread on group-buys.
    Count me in , I'll amble over to group buys and throw my name in the hat....
    Good idea BJJ !
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    I'm in too, I like them and use them all the time. A set calibrated around 2400 in .5 gr increments would be handy. Might be nice for each set to have a duplicate at every even gr weight to customize, or just buy two sets !!!
    “You don’t practice until you get it right. You practice until you can’t get it wrong.” Jason Elam, All-Pro kicker, Denver Broncos

  4. #24
    Boolit Master Handloader109's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pastera View Post
    If you have access to a 3d printer simply print out exactly what you need - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1395017
    On most cheap printers like mine, this will not print well. The bottom of the cup will not be printed well. Cup MUST be printed with mouth open. To make easy, handle would then be on the bottom rather that the top. Needs a redesign.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master Handloader109's Avatar
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    Oh, and they really wouldn't be that costly to make an injection mold for. But need would be probably 2000 sales to break even.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Handloader109 View Post
    Oh, and they really wouldn't be that costly to make an injection mold for. But need would be probably 2000 sales to break even.

    theres a lot of work in that simple little mold block. And when all the machining is done, your most likely looking at a minimum of 30,000$ for it.

  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master

    mdi's Avatar
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    FWIW, one poster mentioned getting a home made dipper right for a specific load. I have made adjustable dippers quite easily. I drilled a case head for 10-32 and used a machine screw to screw in the case head. Screw it farther in, the load lightens. Screw it out and the charge increases. Not a large adjustment "window" but I've used it for "tweeking" a dipper capacity...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  8. #28
    Boolit Bub
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    I use my RCBS Uniflow and Lee Auto-disk for target loads that are not near the top of the load range, but use the dippers and a scale for anything close to the top of the load data just to make sure. There have been times where I would like to have an "in-between" dipper, and have used a 380 case, some solder and a file to customize a dipper once, but ultimately decided that it was a waste of time for my purposes - but your mileage may vary.

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy MrHarmless's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Handloader109 View Post
    On most cheap printers like mine, this will not print well. The bottom of the cup will not be printed well. Cup MUST be printed with mouth open. To make easy, handle would then be on the bottom rather that the top. Needs a redesign.
    Honestly if you just print with the cup down, and print supports under the handle, it will print just dandy. Doesn't need a redesign at all.

  10. #30
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    RogerDat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinMN View Post
    Candle wax/paraffin melted & put in the bottom of the dippers can help with "tuning" a dipper to a specific charge.

    You can "adjust" the "setting" if you put in too much, but simply removing some of the wax.

    You can remove that wax later if you like, by placing the dipper in some water hot enough to remove the wax & it will be back at the original "setting", or amount of capacity.

    Or... You can make your own dippers out of cartridges, as mentioned.

    I have done both. It works. KISS method for me.


    G'Luck!
    I like the wax idea. Adjustable, lasts as long as needed I would guess, no harm done going back to original. Slick. After all most of us have some wax or paraffin around for smelting or ML lube. As long as one has a dipper larger than the size required it should be easy to add a little wax. I could see making the effort to build a more permanent brass case or tube solution for a load that long term I knew I wanted to repeat. Say a round ball or slug shotgun load or something along those lines.
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.

    Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.

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  11. #31
    Boolit Buddy MrHarmless's Avatar
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    I modified Grahn's code to print the volume on the neck of the scoop for everyone's convenience!

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3350388

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check